1981 Aquasport 170 rebuild in Sweden

[larsli68]

33 degrees F here in Sweden. Long johns and three layers to cope with the cold.
I finished removing the old stringer and cleaned the transom from more wood. I met with the owner to the fiber glass company today. He will let me use his steel table to make
my new floor. Core material will be diviny cell and I plan to do it at Christmas break. That gives me time to finish the pattern for the floor and also where to put the reinforcements for screws etc.
I plan to change the transom slightly when pouring the sea cast. Weather permitting, I might have a go at it this weekend. I have to double layer my tent and get a big enough heater in there to
be able to do it. I will keep you guys posted.
 

[Capt. Bob]

Lookin' good Lars.

Never poured a transom but we have had a couple three posted on the Forum.

What I managed to take away from them is this.....

An extra set of hands helps a lot.

You can't over re-enforce the bracing of the transom mold. :!:  :!:  :!: Do as much as you think is enough and add a little more.

Again, no experience, just what I've read.

Good luck.

[gran398]

Lookin' good Lars.

Never poured a transom but we have had a couple three posted on the Forum.

What I managed to take away from them is this.....

An extra set of hands helps a lot.

You can't over re-enforce the bracing of the transom mold. :!:  :!:  :!: Do as much as you think is enough and add a little more.

Again, no experience, just what I've read.

Good luck.

CB is spot-on.

Good luck

[RickK]

Hi Lars, the summer is over it seems  :(
Since the pouring material is a liquid (maybe not at 33 degrees   ) it will self level.  So I see at least 3 pours in your future.  You'll have to make several "dams" as the transom transitions higher and higher to be able to pour them too and you won't be able to do it all at the same time unless you "cap" the lower parts.  
Have you received good detailed instructions on how to do the pour and how to join the multiple pours from the mfr?
One more thing that I remember happening to some members that did this was that the material would find any leaks in the mold and sneak out.  Look in the corners where the transom goes behind the liner and make sure that is sealed up and won't leak out behind the liner.  Also look around the drain plug tube (good time to replace that if it is still original) and tape it off on both sides and look all along the inner skin where it connects to the hull.
I wish I could remember the company that is the #1 seller of Seacast and uses it to make not only transoms but stringers, floors, all kinds of stuff.  It would be nice to pick their brains.  They are in the upper midwest of the USA.

[Aquasport Commodore]

You might want to make your transom inside corners a little more rounded as it will help with laying glass later. Looking good. Seacast has those square plugs to put in your transom area to hold the skin open for the pour.

[Capt. Bob]

Here's a pour (different material, same theory)

viewtopic.php?p=45619#p45619

[larsli68]

Thanks guys. The weather is not really cooperating here... 36 degrees tonight. No heatwave in other words.
I have sea cast material that I can glue in ahead of time. I will also have to seal up the holes before the actual pour. It doesn't look good for Saturday.
I will post some more pictures after my work tonight. Long johns required here...

[larsli68]

Did a bit of work today. Cold and wet and pretty nasty weather here in Sweden. I had to force myself to go out...
Fitted the inside plywood today and prepared the filler funnel for the big pour. Also created a double skin on my tent to help heating it for a pour, hopefully next weekend.
I also cut pieces of the seacast material to keep the thickness of the transom when applying the clamps.

[RickK]

Good planning Lars  
The weight of the pour can do some unpredictable stuff so clamp and wedge it wherever to prevent an unexpected result.

[larsli68]

Good planning Lars  
The weight of the pour can do some unpredictable stuff so clamp and wedge it wherever to prevent an unexpected result.

Thanks Rick,

I will continue today with more strengthening of the transom. The weather here is cold and wet... I hope no rain today. It's just hard to motivate yourself to go out when
the weather is like this... My brother has two 2000 watt heaters that I hope will increase the temperature in the tent to 65 degrees for the pour.

//Lars

[larsli68]

I glued pieces of Seacast in the transom tonight. Two heaters working hard to keep the tent warm... I envy you guys who live in Florida.


If the weather permits, I hope to pour on Saturday. Time will tell.

[larsli68]

After discussing with Jeff at Invision Boatworks, I decided to wait. Great guy with a lot of knowledge of Seacast.
The weather here is cold and wet, and I don't want to risk not getting a good pour, and good bond on the Seacast.
I will have to wait until March most likely to do the pour.
I'm also contemplating staying original or making the transom taller??? Any advice appreciated.

During Christmas break I plan to make my new floor and finalize the design of the transom.

[RickK]

I think that is a very wise decision Lars.  You'd hate yourself if it went south on you and you had to chip it all away.

[flatbackpaul]

chipping it away is a B!TCH.  Take my word for it.

[larsli68]

I bet trying to get the Seacast out again would be a true bitch... I will prepare even better (advice from Jeff) and close the transom as much as possible with glass.
This to prevent leaks when I do the actual pour. Grinding is only a bitch to my neighbors... but something I can do even if it's cold out.
I will take some pictures tomorrow in the daylight. The sun sets at 3PM here... By 3:30 it's pitch dark.
In the summer we are paid back, with daylight until 11PM at night instead, and dusk until midnight.
Lot's of time to do boating in other words...