1998 245 Explorer Cockpit Deck Paint

[flycaster1]

I have a 1998 245 Explorer and have some hairline cracking around the two deck access plates and along the seams where the tank cover is gel-coated in.
I would like to simply thin some deck paint and apply it to the cracks then follow up with a complete coat of paint for the complete cockpit floor.
 Will this method work or should something more radical be employed??
 Thanks in advance for your answers and input.

[wingtime]

I have the same cracks.  I think the gel coat is too thick in those locations.

[seabob4]

Flycaster, not to burst your bubble, but unless your tank has been replaced in the past, there is no tank hatch on your Explorer.  The smooth gel lines are where the hatch used to be, it's now part of the cockpit sole...

[flycaster1]

Flycaster, not to burst your bubble, but unless your tank has been replaced in the past, there is no tank hatch on your Explorer.  The smooth gel lines are where the hatch used to be, it's now part of the cockpit sole...

The deck plates are from the factory and semi-recessed in the deck.



One is to access the fill pipe and the other to access the line to the engine.

[seabob4]

Yes, I'm well aware of the access plates on the Explorer.  I worked at AS for 6 years, '94-'00...

[flycaster1]

Yes, I'm well aware of the access plates on the Explorer.  I worked at AS for 6 years, '94-'00...

I will take better pics and post more this weekend if the weather permits.
Follow this thread.
I would like to get more input from you.

[Capt. Bob]

I worked at AS for 6 years, '94-'00...

I would like to get more input from you.

Fly,
Don't encourage him too much. We really don't want to hear the one about the 98 Company X-mas party where a couple of the riggers got carried away with a resin tank.  

[seabob4]

No Christmas party shenanagins, CB...

Although it was quite amusing when Gemano, the Explorer line supervisor, was moving the line up by himself one day (strap hooked to the bow eye, pull them fwd with a fork lift), a 225 Explorer at the end of the line, still hooked up, Gemano hops off the fork to go do something else, left the fork in reverse, no parking brake...the fork went through the breakroom wall, took out a vending machine and the wall unit AC, and pulled the Explorer off the end of the line onto the concrete floor...

All in a days work.  They took away Gemano's fork lift liscense for a while...

[flycaster1]

Now that the thread has been hijacked with AS lore can we get back to the original question of deck paint?
  :alien:

[Capt. Bob]

OK,
If I understand correctly, you want to repair the spider cracking in the gel coat and then cover the complete deck with paint.

That's paint (for the repair) rather than gel coat correct?

If I was doing this, I would repair the cracks with gel coat rather than paint.
http://evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=22

Then I would paint.

This forum has a number of gel repair thoughts (where the link above was found).

Good luck.

[gran398]

Now that the thread has been hijacked with AS lore can we get back to the original question of deck paint?
  :alien:

Although I almost hijacked a thread once, and was mildly reprimanded, I got out of it by claiming my post represented "Value Added."

I see that Value has been Added here....

Regarding your issue....clean it up real good with degreaser, then acetone. Then spot roll the cracks with gelcoat.

Then hit the whole deck with rolled gel. Gonna last a lot longer than paint, will look better too. Just make sure your prep is right. No remnant wax etc.

Won't be perfect...but will certainly look better than paint three years down the road.

[RickK]

Before we jump in too deep let's look at some close up pics to see exactly what you're talking about.  I might have some little stress cracks around the same access plates in my 230 - I cover that whole area down the middle with thin rubber backed rugs - much nicer on the feet.
Also, I would not roll the whole floor with gelcoat - it will come out much different than you'd desire.
Let's see some closeups.

[gran398]

Rick, can you expound on why it would come out "much different than desired?" Not to be a contrarian...but bilges are gelcoat rolled over gelcoat. Hullsides are gelcoat sprayed over gelcoat.

 

Paint is paint. Especially underfoot. Scrub it, scrub it, abuse it...it's a painted deck  Paint has a short life vs. gel. Even Kiwigrip, etc.

[RickK]

Gladly Scott,
Pure gelcoat rolled is not like paint where you can roll and tip with much success.  In a bilge, yes it's acceptable - it's a bilge. If he rolled the floor and then added glass bead as a non-skid, the result would be, well ... a non-skid surface, which he might desire but it won't be anything like he has now which is the diamond non-skid that was done in the mold.  I plan on doing this glass bead (kinda) to my floor and will be expecting a very non-skid result.  If he rolled it with pure gelcoat, it won't level itself well and won't feel anything underfoot like he has now plus then he'd have a lot of sanding to get it acceptable and he has approx 91sf of deck space to sand. Ouch!!  If he sprayed webbing solution over the rolled gel it would still be an uneven surface but with some other color (usually) on it.  Again, not as nice as he has currently.
Now if this is going to be a workboat - another story all together and then a rolled gelcoat deck would probably be acceptable and maybe desired.

You mentioned spraying - there are a few examples and full descriptions of how to do it here. It's still a lot of work but much less than pure gelcoat that you need to level by sanding and sanding and sanding.  Spraying the outside of hulls is a norm - not rolling the outside of hulls with gelcoat. Wonder why?
If he sprayed the floor with gelcoat including an additive he might be happy with it after he finished it - the amount of after work is less because the additive will help it level but still a lot of work.  I plan on spraying the "water stripe" areas with gelcoat, finishing those areas and then taping them off and rolling the gelcoat on for glass beading.  I'll end up with smooth shiny water runs and non-skid everywhere else.

I think if we see pics of what he is talking about it'll give us a better idea of the severity and we can advise accordingly.

I can tell you from experience that he has a nicely finished decking right now that is nice on the foot - hate to see him paint or gelcoat the entire thing to hide/get rid of some slight cracking around the access plates - I say slight but I am of course guessing until I see some pics.

My $.02

[gran398]

Depends on how cracked/crazed the deck is...close-up pics would help.

But if want to remedy, since its simple...would keep it simple. Stay with the base diamond pattern substrate.  No need for additives, scrims, fillers etc. Degrease the diamond non-skid deck and wipe closely with acetone. Leave no wax as residue.

Mini-roll a light coat of fresh mix thin gel over the cracks only, let it settle in and set up.

Then roll/spray the deck with a light coat of gel to match and freshen (roll is fine). That's it. Diamond non-skid stays the same, unaltered. Everything matches. Fresh and new. Inexpensive. And no paint to wear out/poorly adhere/lift off/flake off/crack out/sand off/deal with later.

Rick, glad you're gelling your deck. If you'd like to go with the correct 70's diamond non-skid rather than grit, please advise. Have male and female skins on hand.