222 CCP Pedestal Seats

[Woodeneye]

G'day all. Just had the best month in Westport Point MA getting to know the new girl and fishing everyday (well except for bloody Hurricane Arthur).
Got an urge to remove the existing dual pedestal seats (take up too much room and I'm never sitting) and put in a leaning post. I'm assuming the pedestals are bolted through and a inspection port would have to be put in to get at the nuts?? Or could a retro fitted leaning post just pick up the existing pedestals??

Also the fuel gauge that you sight through the inspection window has seen better days, are they repairable/replaceable? its pretty much toast.

Finally, the throttle binnacle started acting up, trim/tilt buttons flaky & wouldn't start in neutral with the throttle advanced. I'm assuming the trim/tilt could be dirty contacts but the not starting in neutral thing has me scratching my head. Its a pull out to engage neutral, before you can advance the throttle. Would that possibly be a mechanical/linkage issue or a electronic issue?

[Capt. Bob]

You can remove the pedestal bolts from the top. They are not through bolted. The ped itself may have some type of adhesive underneath. Mine did (5200?) and a section of the gelcoat came with it.

Most aftermarket leaning posts that I encountered (during the 90s) did not fit the size of the existing peds. This may not be the case now. I actually liked the seats and would use them when trolling.

The fuel gauge is replaceable. I'll assume you have a mechanical one that you can see the fuel level when you open the plate (or possibly through the tint if your eyes are perfect ). Do you have a fuel gauge on the instrument panel or just the mechanical one on the tank? If you do have an electrical (remote gauge) then a WEMA (reed switch type) unit is currently the sender of choice.
Here's both types.
http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarke ... l_senders/

WEMA brand.
http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-Fu ... 9pJb6Mud5I

I'd venture a guess and say you're heading in the right direction on the TnT switch. Also on the detent feature. Mechanically, you may be engaging the gear (forward) because something (a spring perhaps) is not allowing the throttle/shift to clear.

Good luck.

[kaptainkoz]

My vote is definitely for the wema brand. There isn't an electrical contact point to go bad. The mollers always wear out at the electrical contact point. Sure wema is more expensive but look at all the fun it is to change the sender. Not to mention that over time those stainless screws mounting the sender  to the aluminum tank start galvanic corrosion of the threads and strip out.

[kaptainkoz]

As for the tilt trim button, be very careful... Last I checked the switch for that older style control was discontinued from evinrude. Even the dealer was scratching his head as to why and he is a licensed exclusive dealer for them and not just a marina.
The neutral switch can be unplugged. You can run it with the neutral unplugged to see if that changes anything. Mine was never hooked up on my 200ccp and I could start it in gear, so at least you can check and see if the switch is shorting you out.

[Capt. Bob]

It's been a while since I ran an OMC binnacle but you may be able to disassemble the switch. Sounds like the contacts are probably burnt with age. If so they often can be cleaned and when reassembled, work good as new. The 704 Yamaha binnacle is noted for this trait.

Not OMC but you get the point.
viewtopic.php?p=76767#p76767

Good luck.

[slvrlng]

Have you pulled the motor control off the console? You might be surprised at the condition under the glass. Check mine out after I pulled it, no one sealed around it and 25 years of salt had done its work.



My new one like this is really really sweet! Nice detents when shifting, push the BRP button for neutral, it just works great!

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Evinrude- ... or+control

X2 on the WEMA unit!!

[Woodeneye]

All fabulous info. as usual. Thank you very much.

[Woodeneye]

You can remove the pedestal bolts from the top. They are not through bolted. The ped itself may have some type of adhesive underneath. Mine did (5200?) and a section of the gelcoat came with it.


Capn' Bob would the console be  attached in a similar way? I'm thinking I may pull the fuel tank.

[kaptainkoz]

Yes, the console on the CCP's is just bolted down. From what I can see from the pics, yours may have been removed at one time as I do not see the teak base that the console sat on. The teak base was screwed to the deck then the console was screwed to the teak.... at least that's how it was on my 200CCP.

As for the gas tank cover and the leaning post... if you happen to have one made, or if by chance most of the mounting holes line up on the gas tank cover then you can use t-bolts underneath the gas tank cover to make a super strong mount for the leaning post. CCP's did not have a gas tank tub that drained, so its common for them to have filled with water right up against the gas tank cover and reek havoc on both your tank and the gas tank cover. So before I would bolt a leaning post to it I would at least pull the gas tank cover up and see what condition its in.
If its shot you have the option to use traditional plywood, synthetic coring material like coosa board, or carbon core, or you can pour a self leveling material like self leveling sea cast to core the cover. I for one am going to try the sea cast. I will have a seat and a flip back cooler seat t-bolted to the cover. I wish it was done to let you know how it is but im not there yet.

Do your boat a huge favor and wherever you take a screw out please caulk with 3M 4000uv or 5200 before putting a screw back in. water gets into plywood drip by drip through screw holes and never comes out.... at least not until you rip the floor out to re do it. Do not use home depot type silicone home caulk ever on your boat. It really doesn't work well in the long run.

[Woodeneye]

Yes, the console on the CCP's is just bolted down. From what I can see from the pics, yours may have been removed at one time as I do not see the teak base that the console sat on. The teak base was screwed to the deck then the console was screwed to the teak.... at least that's how it was on my 200CCP.

As for the gas tank cover and the leaning post... if you happen to have one made, or if by chance most of the mounting holes line up on the gas tank cover then you can use t-bolts underneath the gas tank cover to make a super strong mount for the leaning post. CCP's did not have a gas tank tub that drained, so its common for them to have filled with water right up against the gas tank cover and reek havoc on both your tank and the gas tank cover. So before I would bolt a leaning post to it I would at least pull the gas tank cover up and see what condition its in.
If its shot you have the option to use traditional plywood, synthetic coring material like coosa board, or carbon core, or you can pour a self leveling material like self leveling sea cast to core the cover. I for one am going to try the sea cast. I will have a seat and a flip back cooler seat t-bolted to the cover. I wish it was done to let you know how it is but im not there yet.

Do your boat a huge favor and wherever you take a screw out please caulk with 3M 4000uv or 5200 before putting a screw back in. water gets into plywood drip by drip through screw holes and never comes out.... at least not until you rip the floor out to re do it. Do not use home depot type silicone home caulk ever on your boat. It really doesn't work well in the long run.

T-Bolts? As in a toggle bolt? I think the fuel tank is original, or it sure as hell looks that way through the fuel gauge window, so I'm thinking it has to come out. Your comments re 5200 are duly noted. Thanks. Would the fuel tank cover come out in one piece or is that a demo job?

[Capt. Bob]

Yes, the console on the CCP's is just bolted down. From what I can see from the pics, yours may have been removed at one time as I do not see the teak base that the console sat on. The teak base was screwed to the deck then the console was screwed to the teak.... at least that's how it was on my 200CCP.

As for the gas tank cover and the leaning post... if you happen to have one made, or if by chance most of the mounting holes line up on the gas tank cover then you can use t-bolts underneath the gas tank cover to make a super strong mount for the leaning post. CCP's did not have a gas tank tub that drained, so its common for them to have filled with water right up against the gas tank cover and reek havoc on both your tank and the gas tank cover. So before I would bolt a leaning post to it I would at least pull the gas tank cover up and see what condition its in.
If its shot you have the option to use traditional plywood, synthetic coring material like coosa board, or carbon core, or you can pour a self leveling material like self leveling sea cast to core the cover. I for one am going to try the sea cast. I will have a seat and a flip back cooler seat t-bolted to the cover. I wish it was done to let you know how it is but im not there yet.

Do your boat a huge favor and wherever you take a screw out please caulk with 3M 4000uv or 5200 before putting a screw back in. water gets into plywood drip by drip through screw holes and never comes out.... at least not until you rip the floor out to re do it. Do not use home depot type silicone home caulk ever on your boat. It really doesn't work well in the long run.

T-Bolts? As in a toggle bolt? I think the fuel tank is original, or it sure as hell looks that way through the fuel gauge window, so I'm thinking it has to come out. Your comments re 5200 are duly noted. Thanks. Would the fuel tank cover come out in one piece or is that a demo job?

Wood.
I didn't have teak trim around the console on my 84. The console is attached directly to the deck. Also, you can remove the tank coffin cover in one piece. You will need to unbolt the console and tilt it forward which means you also need to move the coffin box out of the way. You should have enough slack in the cabling to do this. You also need to remove the pedestals.

The cover is just screwed down, no thru bolting (as is both the console and peds). You may need to re-core the cover but you won't know until you remove it. By tilting the console forward, you will gain the necessary room to remove the tank. Should you decide to replace the tank, you will need to deal with fill and vent hose replacement also. That's another story.

[kaptainkoz]

Ooopps.... Sorry, I meant T nuts like these :

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CEQMygBMAE

Sorry. Late night typing brain mishap. The fuel tank cover should pry up nice and easy in one piece. I would go easy on it as I would not want to try to make one. If the core is shot you can scrape/sand/chisel out the plywood and re-core it without disturbing the fiberglass shell.

Hopefully someone got to it first and drilled a few holes in the tank tub, although that may be against coast guard rules for fuel containment. Once the tank is out, thoroughly cleaned on the exterior and check for any aluminum pitting. If there aren't any deep pits, figure out how to pressurize the tank to about 5 psi and see if it holds it for a few mins. As always be very careful handling fuel tanks as the vapors are more dangerous than the liquid.

[Woodeneye]

Should you decide to replace the tank, you will need to deal with fill and vent hose replacement also. That's another story.

What story? You're scaring me. chase the old ones out, slide new ones in??

[Capt. Bob]

Should you decide to replace the tank, you will need to deal with fill and vent hose replacement also. That's another story.

What story? You're scaring me. chase the old ones out, slide new ones in??

That indeed is the story but not all of it.

You will find that the CCP has foam floatation between the stringers and the hull wall under the deck and that both the fill and vent hoses are immersed in this stuff. This adds to the difficultly in removal. Chase and slide is more like cuss and swear. You won't be the first to deal with this and there are several threads scattered throughout the Forum. When you get ready, we'll provide support for your angst.  

I ran a new fill hose that exited out the side of the console. I retained the old vent hose. Filling from the console can be a pain (you have to board at a filling station) and can result to spillage on the deck. When I sold another member my hull, he returned the fill to its original location.

Now you know the rest of the story.

[fishinonthebrain]

What year is she?

From your pictures she looks in good shape.