My first rebuild. 76 170

[bfabian76]

Ok. That's what I was thinking. Seal the old wood. Make the lip with some glass and good coring. Screw it on to the bottom of the liner with maybe some bonding compound. Counter sink the screws. Bevel the edge of my new floor and the liner. Lay a few layers of glass getting wider to join them. Then maybe 1708 and a layer or two of mat over the whole floor. I feel like this would save a lot of fairing work.

[bfabian76]

ok, im in need of some motivation/ advise. I have decided to do the floor like most of the rebuilds on here and lay my new floor on my 2 inch lip. as of right now my floor is cut out. my stringer foam is completely dry. where do I go from here. build the stringer up? start the rigging tubes? figure out the gas tank? I was going to go down and pick up the marine plywood for the deck. 3 sheets should do it. but im not sure of how much resin and glass to get for the deck.. Rickk? anyone lol. the fire under my ass is dying out..

[RickK]

I know it's hard to stay motivated - boy do I know.  Got any last minute pics we can see so we know exactly where you're at?  This is a big hurdle and you'll feel great as you get over this hump.
If you're staying with the same floor plan I would say 5/8' is plenty thick.  Resin coat the bottom and lay a couple layers of mat on it - 3/4oz should be fine.  Make sure you coat the edges well, maybe twice.
The old floor was maybe 5/8" on mine so after you repeat the process on the top of the wood you should be about the same thickness as the old floor..
Now, about the gap between between the bottom of the new and the top of the stringers, did you chisel off the concrete like stuff off the top of the stringers?  If so I think I might go buy some jasper board - maybe in the 10lb weight, cut it into strips as wide as the stringers - it needs a layer of glass on one side and two on the other. Jasper is like a high density foam, real easy to work with and it is light.  I would then stick that down with 5200 or maybe even some good quality tube adhesive from HD or if you have some epoxy, mix some cabosil and chopped strand into a putty..  Weight it down for a few days with cinder blocks.  Make one more dry fit of the decking, make sure you're happy with it and then stick it down all around to include the seams, with either the same tube adhesive or you could go with more thickened epoxy.  Weight it down with blocks and you could even run some deck screws into the 10lb jasper to anchor it into the glue.
After that - it's time to lay a couple layers of 1708 over the deck and tie it into the liner and casting deck.
Oh, I feel better and motivated myself now  

[Aquasport Commodore]

With the drain chase at the transom, just replacing the deck will gain you 1 1/2 -2 in upward movement in the scuppers. This will be more than enough for the self bailing. Just put a hatch at the rear for the bilge and to get to the motor mount bolts. I wouldn't use ply for the deck. By the time you cover the wood with resin to water proof it and cloth, all the work for screws and price/weight, I would use Nidacore. Cheaper than wood and lighter. No rot is also a plus. A  16mm (.68 in) prior to 3 layers of glass (would put you at 3/4 in when done) is $65.08 per sheet at http://www.fgci.com. (There is a store in St Pete on 34th St so NO shipping and close to you) Also less weight will help with the boat floating a little higher in the water. I would also check your transom at the bottom by the drain plug area. They like to leach water and soak it up like a wick. Now is the time

[bfabian76]

the last pictures i posted on page two is still where i am. haven't chiseled the old bonding compound off the stringers yet. nidacore better then marine ply? how does it hold up for mounting screws and such through it?
I will no longer go to fcgi as the first time i went there i had a really bad experience. then returned everything i bought because the guy was being a dork. I found a place in tampa that is cheaper and more friendly. when i go down there im thinking 3 or 5 gals of resin? what am i looking at as far as how much mat and 1708 should i buy?

[Aquasport Commodore]

Bond this stuff in the back side where you plan on putting screws and no issue. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=8758 Attaches with epoxy just fine and holds screws. Again no rot. As for your question, you can use what you want, but in my opinion I like Nida over ply for several reasons. Rot and weight are the biggest.

[RickK]

Some glass comes in 50" wide and some in 38" (I think).  Check what your supplier has.  If you are talking about glassing the bottom side you can see that 50" would be wide enough for each 48" panel going across the boat.  For the top side of the sole, the 170 is about 60" at the floor level inside wide.  If you run the glass lengthwise bow to stern that would give you one seam down the middle if you use 38 or 50 wide.  Or you could use a 50" straight down the middle and then a narrow seam of filler on the outside, both sides.  You'll want two layers and you'll want to stagger the seams so there isn't a hump in the floor in one spot.  Think the seams out a little for fairing purposes.
If you are going to lay heavy non-skid down on top that makes the thinking less painful.  :)

[bfabian76]

i am using poly not epoxy because im going to gelcoat the boat.

my supplier has 50 inch rolls. heavy non skid will be used haha. im more worried about the fairing up the sides. i will like it will be hard to get that sides to blend well where it goes up the liner

[RickK]

I'll let you know when I do it  
I plan to be as consistant as I can with the line of the cloth as I go up the liner.  Then you can use bondo or fairing putty (maybe I should buy some of that some day   ) to fair the edge.  2 layers of 1708 is not very thick - maybe 1/16".

BTW, you can use epoxy under the sole to include the bottom layer of the wood if you want a superior bond since that is structural.  Everything to include the layer of cloth on the bottom of the floor is epoxy on mine.  The top of the sole and up is poly.

[bfabian76]

haha.. let me know how the fairing goes lol. you may be there before me

[RickK]

Once you get the bonding putty off you can get a good idea of what kinda of gap you need to fill.

Don't let this overwhelm you.
You can see how I raised my stringers the last time I did a floor replacement - worked for 14 years.


Had I not got a hair somewhere and went crazy like this (at least you didn't)


I think the wood spacers (actually 1/2" fence slats) would have still been a solid solution for many years to come.

[bfabian76]

yea. i have been following your build.  amazing work sir!

[RickK]

Thanks man.  Yours should be an easy putt if you dive into it a few weekends and before you know it, the floor will be back in.
I am going to use this method for non-skid - works great and it's really easy.  I'll document the process better when I do it this time.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1991

[bfabian76]

yes sir! i plan on doing it the same way. we tried it on some extra glass we had laying around. works very well!

[bfabian76]

ok. I took off work 12 days to work on the boat.. ( needed to take the time or i lose it) starting the 16th I will be working on it. hoping to get the rigging tubes, floor, and body work done. which would leave me with gelcoat and wiring left.

My plan is to do the floor with 1/2 marine plywood. seal it with resin, one layer of mat on the bottom. tab in with 1708, two layers of 1708 across the whole thing, and a layer of cloth to finish it off.


RIGGING TUBES AND SCUPPERS????

im deleting the wiring channel and will be installing some rigging tubes.. any advice for those? PVC, drill drain holes on the bottom. best way to run them?

as far as scuppers, some people get ball scuppers, some people raise the scuppers. anyone delete them and put drains in the back that would go down to the bilge? someone school me on this. the boat isnt kept in the water at all. so I was thinking maybe putting to fitting in the back of the floor by the transom and having it drain to the bilge.