Bilge pump ?? (Wiring)

[plugger]

Long story short, I discovered that my float switch /bilge pump does not function when battery is in off position. All is fine when main switch  on #1 #2 & all. I did replace the cartridge type pump
not long ago ...just two wires black and brown. I just spliced  in the new one.
Question is there an in line fuse  that blew when the old pump died?
205 osprey

[seabob4]

Plugger, there are two feeds off the float.  One is combined with the positive off the pump, this runs to the manual switch at the helm.  The other runs either straight to the batt or to batt 1 or 2 on the batt switch.  This enables the float to turn on the pump with the batt switch OFF.  It should be fused with a 10A fuse.  So time to start digging...

[plugger]

Won't get there till the week end, any 205 owners  able to pin point it for me ?
 2002 205

[seabob4]

Your welcome...

[Capt. Bob]

Won't get there till the week end, any 205 owners  able to pin point it for me ?
 2002 205

No problem.
It's not wired directly to the battery. Neither is mine. Works the same way so..........

Did it ever work with the switch in the off position?

[Bergertime]

Sounds like the constant hot for the float is wired south of the main battery switch..

Plugger Confirm the following and post back:

1) Assuming you have a switch at the helm for the bilge pump, does the bilge pump work when switched on at the helm with your batteries in the "On" position?  Make sure you poke your head down in the bilge as some pumps are very quiet and you may not be able to hear it at the helm.

2) Does the bilge pump work when you manually actuate the float switch with your batteries on in "On" Postion?

3) Does the bilge work via the float and helm switch (if equipped) when you select Batt A or Batt B or Both on your battery switch?

4) Trace the feed that comes off the leg of the float switch that does not connect to your bilge pump.  My guess is that it's wired to your fuse panel or to a power bus of some sort that sits on the other side of your main battery switch from your battery(s).  Your helm is likely to be wired this way but typical float wiring usually will go to a constant hot power source independent of the battery switches (see note below)

NOTE: IMHO- If the bilge works in both scenarios (1&2&3 above) it's ok to keep it wired that way assuming your boat is not stored in the water and has the ability to drain on a trailer, i.e. plug removal.  Like Capt Bob, I have mine wired that way now b/c I fall in that category. However, just make sure you understand that while your boat is in the water you would never want to turn both batteries off b/c your float or bilge will not work in the event it's needed.

Do some testing and post back your ?s or results.

B

[CLM65]

My memory aint what it used to be, but IIRC, my boat came with one battery and no battery switch.  The battery was in the bilge area, and fed power to the helm.  Both the auto and manual feeds came from the helm.  So when I added the second battery and the battery switch, the auto function would only work with the battery switch in 1, 2, or both.  If your boat is still wired this way, the auto switch (i.e., float switch) won't work if the battery switch is in the off position.  I didn't like it that way, so I ran a wire from one of the batteries directly to the auto switch.  Make sure you use a fuse in this line if you go that route.

[gran398]

Members and Rigging Master, THANK YOU for taking the time to input here.

[plugger]

CLM65 has described my situation exactly, & I intend to replace the pump & float @ seasons end
at that time I will wire it as he did. As for now i'll leave the battery switch to ALL since its slipped.
In hind site I don't think this was an issue for the original owner due to him trailering the boat

Thanks to all who replied