Modifications on 205 Osprey

[sttrattcatt]

So I have a 2000 Osprey 205 with a Yamaha 150 hp 2 stroke. This is my first boat and first season. i'm looking to do a few minor things to it and am looking for input. I feel it is short on rod holders. Thinking about 2 in the bow. 1 starboard 1 port. Flush mount no bolt on. I like the clean look. Also possibly getting the batteries out of the crammed area in stern and relocate to cc. I changed the macerator pump ( for fish boxes) which is in a terrible spot to get to. But have to change the wash down / live well pump. Can this be done on the water. Im trying to remember if there is a valve so water doesn't come in upon disconnect. I keep it moored several blocks away.  Also I had water in the fuel when i first dropped it in. Is this common? Changed filter , water separator, not the vst though.

[wingtime]

There should be a seacock valve that you can shut off the raw water going to the pump.  Be careful turning it for the first time in the water.  If it hasn't been turned in years it could be stiff.  So don't break off the handle!  The valve should be exercised once or twice a year.  For the rod  holders make sure  you get the ones with the rubber caps.  You don't want water getting into the hull.  Be sure to seal the core of the cap after you cut the hole with epoxy.  Then seal it and the screw holes  with 5200 when you install the rod holders.  Moving the batteries into the console will require a heavier gauge wire due to the long run.  I'd keep it in the stern due to the voltage drop when starting.

For the fuel your nest bet is if you can get non-ethanol.  It will prevent a ton of headaches down the road.

[CLM65]

I added rod holders to the front of my 205.  There really isn't a good place to flush mount them.  The outer part of the cap is curved, and the flat top part of the cap has the bow rail to contend with.  So I ended up with bolt-ons.  I don't think they look too bad, but they are not as clean looking as flush mounted holders.

I have replaced my macerator pump 2 or 3 times so far (boat is a 2002).  Trust me, it doesn't get any easier as you get older.  The euro transom really isn't designed with maintenance in mind.  I have not had to replace my livewell/washdown pump yet (knock on wood), but there is a seacock so that it can be isolated.  I would bet that you have the same setup.  Good luck and welcome to the club!

Edit:  here is a picture showing my bolt-on rod holders

[sttrattcatt]

Thank you wingtime and clm65 for your input. Went with the bolt on pole holders (  put thread lock on first and used small sections of hose cut vertically so as not to scratch the rails). Will consider battery mod next year. Went out last night after long day at work and fished the 3rd Wantagh bridge.  No fish but beautiful sunset and calm water. Got up this am to change baitwell/ wash down pump and noticed that the anchor locker drain cover on the port bow is missing. I don't see screw holes just the drain hole.
  Maybe 3/8 - 1/2 inch. Is this cover just silicone on? Not that it's a bid deal to replace. Pilot holes, silicone, stainless hardware. Alot easier than dealing with the pumps in the transom area. Hope your enjoying the water as much as I am!

[wingtime]

I think that drain is a all in one threaded in unit like a mini thru hull.

[sttrattcatt]

After looking at pics of my boat ( only have owned it  a few months) it appears to maybe have been plastic or PVC. Cant seem to track one down so i guess I'll just put a stainless steel clam shell over the hole. Thanks again for the info.

[seabob4]

Look here in the 4th post...viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6677

Like I said a few years ago, an impact drain, but I have no clue who made them...

[sttrattcatt]

thank you seabob4 . In your opinion a stainless clam shell will suffice. Drill pilot holes as to not crack the fiberglass. Maybe a little marine silicone on the screws.

[seabob4]

thank you seabob4 . In your opinion a stainless clam shell will suffice. Drill pilot holes as to not crack the fiberglass. Maybe a little marine silicone on the screws.

Yep, how we did them at Proline.  Angle it aft about 45*, you'll be fine...