Epoxying down reclaimed nonskid decking

[aquaprouts]

In the thick of my 77' 196 refurb.....had numerous soft spots on the decking so removed  the nonskid membrane and 5/8" plywood core from the front of the console back to the transom.  Lots of WET plywood(80 to 100 lbs of moisture alone I'd guess).......cleaned up the nonskid paneling with a dremmel multi-tool with scraper(this tool was invaluable for this project from cutting nondiscreet lines to scraping to cutting, etc, etc) and also cleaned the lower subfloor to receive the new plywood....epoxied in the new 5/8" plywood and now ready to reapply the salvaged nonskid topside paneling. The old nonskid mates up pretty well height wise though have to do a bit of belt sander tweaking on the ply in a few areas..... My question is how much epoxy by height and what consistency mix(mixing with cabosil...mayo or peanut butter ?}  is best for setting this paneling atop the plywood?  Concerned if I put too much on that the edges wont realign/mate and might end up too high........not enuff and perhaps some voids could be created.  Also, is it best to use heavy weights atop boards when setting the paneling so that all areas of the mating surfaces are in direct contact with one another?  Have an arsenal of boat batteries, cinder blocks and dumbells that really worked well setting the ply.....however, the plywood is pretty static and easy to place whereas the nonskid paneling is very plyable with regards to surface curvature and fluctuations and imperfections in the new ply subfloor.......Thanks in advance....hopefully get a pic thread on what i'v done when boat is completed.

[wingtime]

Others will chime in but I would think a notched trowel would be a good idea.

[redemn93]

i agree with spreading evenly with a notched trowel.  Also be ready and have lots and lots of heavy objects to place on it so it glues down correctly.  put something in every spot possible.

[CLM65]

I haven't done this myself, but here is how I think I would do it.  Mix your epoxy with cabosil to a mayo consistency.  Spread with the notched trowel.  Set the panel in place.  Set plywood on top of the panel and weigh down with your batteries, blocks, etc.  The plywood may need to be an exact replica of your nonskid panel to ensure it compresses the entire deck evenly.  Otherwise I fear you may end up with a wavy, uneven deck.

[Capt. Bob]

This is a scaled down version of what has been mentioned above. Concept is the same though.

viewtopic.php?p=27958#p27958

CBS blocks are an excellent alternative and are usually readily available.

Good luck

[Georgie]

epoxied in the new 5/8" plywood and now ready to reapply the salvaged nonskid topside paneling

If your new plywood is in and bedded in epoxy, that means the edges of the void where it mates up to the original plywood core are now sealed.  If so, why would you thicken the epoxy at all?     I'd pour unthickened epoxy in all it's "runny and oozy glory" into the void on top of your new plywood core, and then just drop the old nonskid on top so that you can press it down and squeeze out the excess epoxy until the floor is at the desired height.  If you thicken the epoxy and then try and press the nonskid back into place, any excess will be too viscous to squeeze out the edges and then you'll be left with a lip where the replaced nonskid is higher than the original.  

2 cents.

Oh, and use a series of 2X4s, metal pipe, or similar true stock running abeam to squeeze down the nonskid so you can see what you're doing and how it progresses.  A round pipe might be especially effective since you can roll it back and forth.

[gran398]

Good point.

My 1 cent would be a catsup-like consistency....just thick enough to fill any irregularities/low spots in the ply.

If you wanted to get jiggety...and since its epoxy...you could use West adhesive filler instead of cabosil.

[saltfly]

I've done this may times in the past and never thickened the rosin. Just my two cents.

[aquaprouts]

great advice gentleman...thank you all very much...a question that may sound crazy here and not that i would attempt it....why could you not utilize construction subfloor adhesives to glue down the plywood and or bond the nonskid to the ply....seems to stick like nails to any and everything and sets quick and very tight....self clamping too!!!....just wondering....comments?

[Callyb]

great advice gentleman...thank you all very much...a question that may sound crazy here and not that i would attempt it....why could you not utilize construction subfloor adhesives to glue down the plywood and or bond the nonskid to the ply....seems to stick like nails to any and everything and sets quick and very tight....self clamping too!!!....just wondering....comments?

I am not going to explain why, I am just going to say... NO! Dont even think about it....

[wingtime]

The you don't do that reason is simple.  Your deck is basically a composite structure not just a kitchen floor.  The components that are laminated together become an I beam of sorts.  The top and bottom layers of glass are the flanges of the beam while the plywood is the web spacer between the "flanges".  When you stand on the deck the top layer in placed in compression and due to the space provided by the plywood the bottom layer is placed in tension.  So as you can see simple liquid nails is not capable of handling those type of loads.  Also be sure you put some fiberglass tape over where you cut the top layer of fiberglass.

[gran398]

The you don't do that reason is simple.  Your deck is basically a composite structure not just a kitchen floor.  The components that are laminated together become an I beam of sorts.  The top and bottom layers of glass are the flanges of the beam while the plywood is the web spacer between the "flanges".  When you stand on the deck the top layer in placed in compression and due to the space provided by the plywood the bottom layer is placed in tension.  So as you can see simple liquid nails is not capable of handling those type of loads.  Also be sure you put some fiberglass tape over where you cut the top layer of fiberglass.

 

Then add in vibration. Temperature and humidity change. And beating in the ocean

[Georgie]

The top and bottom layers of glass are the flanges of the beam while the plywood is the web spacer between the "flanges". When you stand on the deck the top layer in placed in compression and due to the space provided by the plywood the bottom layer is placed in tension.

Bruce's comment furthers the point I was trying to make.  The question is not just about adhesion, you need to make a full "laminate" sandwich....which is another reason why I PROMISE the resin should not be thickened.  It needs to be able to flow and fill every possible void because the voids are the places where flex and compression will happen.  Think of vacuum bagging fiberglass laminates....the advantage is being able to hold things in position and pull out air bubbles that rolling can't.  Makes a much stronger finished product.  In your particular situation, can you make your "deck" level?  That's the important part if you use unthickened resin.  It'll drain away from important areas otherwise.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Agree with georgie on this one, thinner is better if its looks like it will be to runny to stay where you want it, you might thicken it some but not a lot. I would still use a trowel or plastic spreader to move it around and try to make it stand on the wood..Make sure to use acetone to clean both the plywood and the bottom of the non skid piece..use some plastic around the edges after the piece is down, just in case some epoxy oozes out , you don't want your weights to become solid with the floor..like others said you want the entire floor to be as one when dried completely. Try to get a few pics of your process if possible..

[aquaprouts]

great advice again.....waiting on epoxy from u.s. composites tomorrow or friday.....i think I will attempt a light cabosil mix in the epoxy like ketchup or so just to be certain any voids/irregularities in surfaces get filled....Gman 82 can you tell me how many gallons per hour you burn at cruise, what you cruise at and what type of prop you are running?...I have a 93 mercury efi 150 on this 196  and would be interesting what performance you get.....my motor has a high five 5 blader.....dunno the pitch, etc.....I am also in progress of getting a new fuel tank...i've found a poly 35 gallon for around 300 bucks delivered but can get a 45 aluminum for 400 and change plus delivery.....want to make sure I have adequate fuel capacity...guessing my boat will burn 6 to 7 gallons and hour running at 3000 rpm and 25 mph{sound right?}////..have only used it once since I bought it in november and it was heavy with the wet plywood and bow ballast weight in the front anchor locker at nearly 75 lbs....a big rock!   Thanks all....much appreciated!