Corroded Fuel Sender: Suggestions?

[TJS]

The fuel sender on my 2000 Osprey 205 is corroded badly and the fuel gauge wire has broken off the post. I'd like to replace the sender but the screws are stripped and can not be loosened.  

(1) How do I check the fuel gauge? I want to make sure the gauge is working properly. If it works, I can get a friend to weld a post on the sender for me and I'll leave the sender in place as long as possible.

(2) If I have to replace the sender, I can grind the screws but may not get all the studs out of the poly tank. Do I have any options for securing a new sender on the poly tank without the same screw holes available?

I appreciate any suggestion!

[Bergertime]

Hello TJS,

As long as your connections to the gauge are not broken you should be able to turn your key on so the gauges are energized (engine not running) and touch the ground and gauge wire (pink) together.  Your fuel gauge, if working properly should peg to the full position. The fuel gauge works off of Ohms of resistance not voltage. If you do not get a reaction here check to make sure you have the right wires. (black/Pink) and if you are sure there then your gauge is suspect.

As for the screws, I had a very similar problem on my prior tank when I wanted to replace the sender as two of the screws were stripped and corroded to the top of the sender.  I very carefully drilled off the heads (sanding would work) and then removed the sender.  There was enough of the remaining screw to lock on to it with vice grips and un-thread the rest of the way out. Just make sure you match the threads with the replacements.

Once you get your sender out you can test it with your gauge but I would opt for a replacement if it's the original with the boat.  The newer ones made my WEMA are far better than the crappy swing arm style that you likely have.  Hope this helps..  Post pictures if you need further help and good luck.  Here is an old thread where I was going through the same thing.  The discussion should help

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9771.0

B

[fitz73222]

Chances are the sender is shot anyway being that corroded. Chizel the screw heads off. Grinding is a little dangerous unless that tank is completely dry and evacuated or full of water to prevent the obvious from occuring. You should be able to unscrew the remaining screw bodies with vice grips. If not, get the screw bodies flush, grinding may be the only option but be careful. Get a new reed style sender from Moeller with uses a  circular magnet riding up a tube that is basically a proximity sender. Make sure the lenght of the sender pipe is no closer than 1/2-3/4 from the bottom of the tank. Rotate the new sender flange so the holes will be in new tank material and just transfer new hole locations from the flange to the tank. Pre-drill small pilot holes and fasten down the sender with tapping screws and gasket. As for the gage, make sure it is getting 12V from whatever source the voltage is coming from, typically the engine keyswitch (purple for most) or separate switch activated on some installs. Connect your new sending unit to the cleaned wiring at the tank, raise the magnet up and down and see if the gage moves. If not, do a resistance check of the wiring, moving the magnet up and down with an OHM meter connected to the sender wires at the gage and see if the resistance changes. If it changes and the gage doesnt move, the gage is bad, if no change, something is up with wiring; corroded, broken etc. Effect appropriate repairs and try again. Seabob will add to this...

[fitz73222]

Hello TJS,

As long as your connections to the gauge are not broken you should be able to turn your key on so the gauges are energized (engine not running) and touch the ground and gauge wire (pink) together.  Your fuel gauge, if working properly should peg to the full position. The fuel gauge works off of Ohms of resistance not voltage. If you do not get a reaction here check to make sure you have the right wires. (black/Pink) and if you are sure there then your gauge is suspect.

As for the screws, I had a very similar problem on my prior tank when I wanted to replace the sender as two of the screws were stripped and corroded to the top of the sender.  I very carefully drilled off the heads (sanding would work) and then removed the sender.  There was enough of the remaining screw to lock on to it with vice grips and un-thread the rest of the way out. Just make sure you match the threads with the replacements.

Once you get your sender out you can test it with your gauge but I would opt for a replacement if it's the original with the boat.  The newer ones made my WEMA are far better than the crappy swing arm style that you likely have.  Hope this helps..  Post pictures if you need further help and good luck.  Here is an old thread where I was going through the same thing.  The discussion should help

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9771


B

Beat me to it Berger!!!

[seabob4]

Seabob will add to this...

Like what, Farley?  You and Bruce pretty much have it covered...

I would recommend replacing the pink and black going from the sender to the gauge.  Remember, senders work on resistance to ground, you don't want to throw any more resistance in the picture with old corroded wiring...

[fitz73222]

Off topic Bob, but while its on my mind, I am 53 you know! I'm converting a flats boat over to hydraulic steering in about three weeks with a nice Tele NFB tilt helm with what I believe is a 14' cable. Can you make 14' work on the Sea sprite? I haven't forgot you on the helm need.

[seabob4]

Off topic Bob, but while its on my mind, I am 53 you know! I'm converting a flats boat over to hydraulic steering in about three weeks with a nice Tele NFB tilt helm with what I believe is a 14' cable. Can you make 14' work on the Sea sprite? I haven't forgot you on the helm need.

Farley, you off topic/derailer you!!  Happy Easter my friend!  Let me go measure.  If anything, I can run the cable under the floor (rigging port comes up in the livewell compartment), then route the cable outboard and back to the motor.  Letcha know...

[seabob4]

Farley, 14' would work just fine!!  

[fitz73222]

Fancy shamncy tilt helm too. I have a 13" SS or  13" contoured big grip plastic wheel (its actually a nice Teleflex wheel, bass boat like) in stock to go with it, or a 15" stainless, your choice. Not sure of the look you're trying to achieve on the sprite. We're putting a Baystar unit on it but he has turn signal type jackplate switch on the mechanical helm and I dont see the provision for it on the Baystar helm. Boat is not in front of me right now so I made need some council for an adapter.

[futch13]

Fancy shamncy tilt helm too. I have a 13" SS or  13" contoured big grip plastic wheel (its actually a nice Teleflex wheel, bass boat like) in stock to go with it, or a 15" stainless, your choice. Not sure of the look you're trying to achieve on the sprite. We're putting a Baystar unit on it but he has turn signal type jackplate switch on the mechanical helm and I dont see the provision for it on the Baystar helm. Boat is not in front of me right now so I made need some council for an adapter.

Pull the 3 screws that hold the shaft seal cover on the helm and the turn signal switch should mount there

[seabob4]

Fancy shamncy tilt helm too. I have a 13" SS or  13" contoured big grip plastic wheel (its actually a nice Teleflex wheel, bass boat like) in stock to go with it, or a 15" stainless, your choice. Not sure of the look you're trying to achieve on the sprite. We're putting a Baystar unit on it but he has turn signal type jackplate switch on the mechanical helm and I dont see the provision for it on the Baystar helm. Boat is not in front of me right now so I made need some council for an adapter.

Pull the 3 screws that hold the shaft seal cover on the helm and the turn signal switch should mount there

Correct Loye, at least on Seastar helms.  Farley, want to stay with a 13", I have a 15" SS destroyer that is like WAY to big.  The plastic would be cool...

[fitz73222]

Fancy shamncy tilt helm too. I have a 13" SS or  13" contoured big grip plastic wheel (its actually a nice Teleflex wheel, bass boat like) in stock to go with it, or a 15" stainless, your choice. Not sure of the look you're trying to achieve on the sprite. We're putting a Baystar unit on it but he has turn signal type jackplate switch on the mechanical helm and I dont see the provision for it on the Baystar helm. Boat is not in front of me right now so I made need some council for an adapter.

Pull the 3 screws that hold the shaft seal cover on the helm and the turn signal switch should mount there

Thanks Loye!

[Bergertime]

It's actually good to be able to contribute a little!  Lord knows I've had my share of questions, especially during that first year..  Sheesh- I was such a newbie!  We'll- kinda still am.. I know  :cyclops:

B

[seabob4]

Bruce, you're doing great!  And this thread was a TOTAL derail...geez, seems we do that around here on occasion...

[TJS]

Wow! You guys are great! I really appreciate your time and suggestions. I feel a lot better since reading your posts. I'll get into check the gauge and planning to replace the sender asap. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

Thanks again!

TJS