Transom replacement questions

[SaltH2OHokie]

Well, had some hiccups and miscommunications that would be complicated to type out the full backstory/explanation, but he raised the entire transom 4".  Partially my fault, partially his...so he's cutting the notch back down 4" and leaving either side up.  Luckily we caught this boo-boo just prior to fairing, so the re-work isn't awful.  He almost had me talked into just bolting the jackplate where it needed to go and leaving the whole thing up high, which may have worked, but then again, it may not have, and re-glassing, re-fairing, and re-painting when it didn't work out seemed like a big gamble to take.

He came around the sides like 6-7" with glass...hopefully that's sufficient.

Hope to get it back Saturday evening.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Questions, comments, concerns?  

[gran398]

Ry, looks good. The extra transom height is a blessing now that the notch is in. It's a free wave gate.  
Folks pay plenty for an acrylic add-on to get to where you are now  

Nando has your boat, closed transom version.  Would give him a call re the jackplate.

Give me a holler tomorrow if you like,  will put you guys in touch.

[Georgie]

He came around the sides like 6-7" with glass...hopefully that's sufficient.

Honestly glad to hear that and it's probably the strongest option      ...Just concerned it resulted in extra unnecessary work trying to blend with the existing side hull gelcoat.  You repainting/coating the sides?

The extra transom height is a blessing now that the notch is in. It's a free wave gate.

Scotty's totally right. That is a great addition to the transom and makes it significantly safer in following seas, backdown, or similar situations.  

[SaltH2OHokie]

Well that's what I wanted, just the "sides" raised up 4".  Leave the notch at 20" notch.  He just brought everything up proportionally, so I had a 24" motor notch.  Might could have made that work with some thought, measuring, mocking up and so-on with the jackplate and motor, but I'd rather have a standard height cutout, so he cut it back down.

Said he'll blend it as far as it needs to go...we'll see, he's spraying it Monday, pick it up Tuesday.

If he does a good job, and the 19-6 does a good job this summer, then we'll be back to him over the winter to tighten up the other various loose ends, and paint her something other than white...so the blending efforts might only be seen for a summer  :twisted:

[SaltH2OHokie]

Pick it up Tuesday turned into pick it up Wednesday.

I'm re-rigging, which in this case includes drilling motor mounting holes, installing scupper tubes (flared brass is my plan), drilling and installing garboard drain.

Any tips/tricks/comments on any of those?

Plan to use a clamp-on drill guide if I can find mine...or find another to buy...for the hole drilling portion.

For the flaring portion, I've done it once and I think we decided 1/8" long on the cut and it flares correct...sound reasonable?

Garboard...I got nothing...never put one of those in from scratch.

[Curious]

Instead of using the brass tubes I spread a glob of 5200 all around the inside of the scupper holes (where the brass would go) and left at that.  So instead of the brass tube there is a layer of 5200.  So far, so good.  Seabob recommended doing that so I can't take credit.  Just keep some acetone handy and when the 5200 starts to set up, just wipe any excess off the outer and inner transom skins being careful not to disturb whats in the hole.  The only other thing to watch out for is using too much 5200.  With the time it takes to cure it has a chance to sag a little.

I also installed one of these:

http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad16 ... inPlug.jpg

I used the same method with the 5200 in the drain plug hole, let it set up and then installed the plate that the plug screws into.  Quick and easy and you can see the 5200 as opposed to not being able to see behind the brass.
Good luck

[seabob4]

Ryan, a little trick I learned many moons ago at Wellcraft in regards to flaring copper scupper tubes.  Lay a pencil flat on it's side, scribe a line around the tube.  Cut on the line (don't leave the line), deburr, then swage.  Works like a charm.  

My old Cuban buddy Antonio Fernandez taught me that...

[SaltH2OHokie]

Ryan, a little trick I learned many moons ago at Wellcraft in regards to flaring copper scupper tubes.  Lay a pencil flat on it's side, scribe a line around the tube.  Cut on the line (don't leave the line), deburr, then swage.  Works like a charm.  

My old Cuban buddy Antonio Fernandez taught me that...

So that's more like 1/4", yes?

[seabob4]

IDK, do it and measure.  Tony (Antonio) showed me that first time I prepped a transom, I have never even bothered to measure.  Works on all transoms, regardless of the make of boat.

Tony is one of the people that will forget more about boats than I'll ever know.  When he told me to do something way back when...I just did it.  And it worked...

[SaltH2OHokie]

Its back.  Its been raining since I got her home, but I managed to get out there between showers this evening and close my eyes and drill 5...no 4...holes in my nice new transom and get the jackplate hanging.

Question 1 (of many):  What's a clean way to get the hydraulic hoses from the cylinder on the jackplate through/over/around the transom?  Planning to mount the hydraulic unit under the console or in the bilge.  Figure under the console would be better.

Got the NSS7 today...sure is pretty.  Hopefully get most of this stuff rigged up Saturday and tested out Sunday.

[kaptainkoz]

I would think with a thru hull similar to these in the link:

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/ ... krUv7w.jpg

[SaltH2OHokie]

Capt Koz: If I make it to the hose shop today for new lines I'll show them that picture and see what they come up with... figured there was something like that out there, my Google skills just couldn't find it. Thanks.

Bob: hasn't stopped raining long enough to play with brass for scupper holes, but hopefully tomorrow I'll put the pencil trick to work.

Dan: fiberglass man said he'd do exactly what you suggested (and apparently Bob), but i spent the $35 on the flanging tool the last time two of these needed replacing, so if I do 2 more, my tool cost gets more evenly capitalized :-)

[seabob4]

Ryan, in regards to your jp hoses, take a look at these b/head fittings from UFlex...http://uflexusa.ultraflexgroup.com/arti ... 22&art=502

A big Thanks to Lewis for turning me on to them.  Slick looking, way better than Teleflex...

[SaltH2OHokie]

So...rigging master I am not.  What probably would have taken an "expert" 1/2 a day to do, took me yesterday from 8am to 12am, then today from 12pm to current and I'm still not done.  Granted there were plenty of distractions along the way, and no help to speak of, but I still know enough to know that I don't know enough.

During that time I coated my scupper holes with thickened epoxy because the brass tubes I have were too short, mounted the jackplate, mounted the motor, sealed/lubed/tightened everything up and then quickly realized that what I had read about cable steering and jackplates not mixing was spot on...so off came the jackplate (hydro steering ain't in the budget right now)...mounted motor straight to transom.  Complicating that already frustrating re-do was that in spite of my efforts with anti-sieze and slow tightening, one of the four bolts through the transom holding the JP on was all galled up and took lots of cussing and a breaker bar to get off...and then I had to dig up another 1/2" stainless nut and bolt in the garage.

Re-timed motor.  Stopped few degrees shy of 21deg max advance only because I don't trust myself to read a timing light in bright sunlight and figure less is fine, more is not...

Mounted new chartplotter/sonar, ran wires for both 'ducers to the transom through my overcrowded rigging trough, stared at potential mounting areas, read various threads here and elsewhere on placement, and still haven't drilled them in.

Mounted Blueseas fuse panel, wired it to battery with ridiculously expensive wire (relative to "non-marine" wire), and wired GPS to it using equally ridiculous heatshrink terminals.  Mounted VHF and in the middle of mocking up my 8' antenna to the side of the console was informed by the wife that it "looks stupid, get a smaller antenna".  Stopped that endeavor.

So at this point I have a jackplate that's back in the garage (never should have come off the skiff it was on), a motor that runs but I don't have time to water test today (fathers day dinner), transducers that I've been too chicken to arbitrarily drill into the transom are just "hanging out" and no VHF.  

I'm a portrait of "loose ends" at the moment.  Wish I lived nearer to some of our members because I'd gladly pay cash, beer, cash and beer, whatever...just for some guidance as I run up on each of these seemingly minor conundrums.  Frustrated that I essentially spent the free time of a beautiful weekend working on this and have very little completed to show for it.

New transom looks good though