new 222 rebuild

[Shine]

I don’t think it could be in worse shape.  It sort of makes me happy that its this bad – everything comes up easy.

A few funny thing I found yesterday…..

Vent tube on gas tank was broken off
Gas tank was not secured in anyway below deck – no foam, no straps
2x4’s and deck screws were the choice materials for the deck “framing”
Sole was ¾” exterior.  When I pulled up the fiberglass (just matt and polyester) it was completely delaminated from the wood.  You can peel the glass of the sole like peeling an Orange, maybe easier.

Good news:  the only thing other than the hull shell that is sound are the 2 main stringers – they are actually quite solid.

More pictures……….

Joel

[Wilson]

Wow!! Way to put that sawzall to some good use.  That thing ain't pretty.

[Shine]

A little further along with the demo.  A few things to share:

The stringers (not original) were laminated o the bottom with what looks like 18 oz roving.  In several places it was possible to peel the glass back – see one of the below pictures.  The secondary bond of the stringers to the hull was very poor.  Also, the glass had separated from the stringer wood in all but a few spots.

We are going to take extra precaution to ensure the shape of the hull doesn’t change before we get new stringers and frames installed.  Similar to pulling a brand new hull from a mold, unless there is some structure in the hull, it could “oil can”.  The next step is to build a cradle to support the shell and keep her strait and fair.  While it looks fine now, a little extra work in building the cradle is worth the peace of mind; especially when you plan to put a lot of work and money into the boat.

The previous “rebuild” included a bunch of mat laid into the bottom.  All this mat and the remaining roving from the stringers (which did not peel off ) will be ground out. New heavy biaxial cloth (1708 or 1808) will be laid into the hull using epoxy resin.  This will reinforce an almost 30 year old skin as well as give us a very good base/foundation for the new stringers and frames

[LilRichard]

What kind of cradle do you plan to build?  I am going to be redoing my stringers and I am interested in how many support points you plan to use.

Also, is the extra biaxial really necessary on the inside of the hull?  I too had considered laying in a few extra layers of glass before the new stringers, but was unsure how much benefit it would be.

[Shine]

cradle will be like trailer bunks but further out  - right on the chine.  There will also be 2 on either side of the keel.  We will build it this week, so I will post pictures.  It may not need a cradle, but better safe than sorry.

As for the extra glass:  Polyester based FRP fatigues quickly and looses much of its strength over time (more specifically cycles of stress). The reason we will go ahead and lay it down is because I dont know if its necessary.  Its "probably" not necessary - but I once its down, all doubt is removed

[Shine]

more pictures....

After measuring diagonals from chine to shear to make sure the hull was square, we made a mold for the new transom.  The clamps you see are temp. used to hold it while it si screwed all around.  Its basically a dam for the new outside skin.  The dam is made from Melanine which is secured to a lip of original fiberglass left around the transom.  The melanine is coated with mold release wax.  Some small fillets of epoxy/woodflour are laid in followed by a layer of 6 oz cloth.  This acts more like a skin coat and also makes a smoother surface for the 1708 Biaxial cloth.  







A cardboard template of the inside transom is useful for cutting the 1708 to fit, and will later be used to cut the 2” foam core.  The 1708 is cut to fit and laminated into the “mold”.  Layers overlap 4” progressively.  First layer goes 4” up sides and bottom, second goes up 8” and third (not in yet) will go up 12”.








Next I have one more layer for outside skin, then the core is bedded in, then inside skin.

When the transom is complete, we will rest the hull on a cradle the will support at the chine and keel – then we put in the new stringers.

Joel

[LilRichard]

Two questions:

1) What is the difference between the green glass and the brown glass in your hull?  I ran into the same thing with mine, and I had to grind away a LOT of glass to get to the brown.  I ended up doing some secondary bonds to the green... and I am hoping that is not a problem.  

2) What are the 2x4s across the gunnels/cap for?  I assume it is to keep the hull from "spreading" while the transom is off?

Thanks.

[Shine]

The 2x4’s are there to keep the hull from getting a twist while the transom is out.  Later they will keep the hull from opening up, I will most likely replace them with a few cargo straps.  Once there are a few frames in the hull, its safe to take them off.

The colors are not indicative of whats really happening.  I am not good with photoshop, I tried to get the resolution so you could see the glass better, but it changes the colors.  What you see as green is the epoxy which is more yellow.  The brown areas are the original polyester matt/roving.  With epoxy there are no problems with secondary bonding, that’s the main reason to use it.

Did you even have a chance to get those measurements off you boat  

Joel

[JimCt]

Nice work!  Appreciate the pictures and desciptions.  Keep 'em coming!

My project is at a pause until this heat wave up here blows by.  Gets a tad steamy inside a Tyvek suit...

[RickK]

Nice step by step.  I don't think that transom will have any problem staying with the boat.
The red line?  A way to lay in each layer of glass at the same height?

[Shine]

Nice step by step.  I don't think that transom will have any problem staying with the boat.
The red line?  A way to lay in each layer of glass at the same height?

Actually the red line is a thread that runs through all Owens Corning "Knitex" brand biaxial cloth - sort of their logo.  Its the NIKE swoosh of fiberglass  

[LilRichard]

I was referring to the original green glass that you ground off- your original layers in the hull were: white (gelcoat), green (layer of glass), then brown (another layer of glass).  Just curious about the difference in the original layers of green and brown...

Once again hoping that bonding to the green layer is a non-issue.

Just realized I still owe you some measurements.. my bad.  I haven't set foot in my hull for about a month due to some heavy training lately.  I am planning on getting back to it soon.

[Shine]

There is a coat of blue/green gelcoat under the first layer of white, maybe thats what you see in my pictures.  

The green tint of the bare glass is from the software - there is not any green in the old glass.  All the old glass was brown on top and  normal "polyester tan" under.  There were pools of pure resin, but I ground down until I got through at one layer of the original roving.

Measurements will be appreciated

[LilRichard]

Hmmm... I was unaware that was gelcoat... and I am now thoroughly confused.  I ground down the white gelcoat in my hull and got to the green (blue green), but that layer had roven in it.  I had to grind a whole lot of green away to get to the brown, so I assumed it was two layers of glass.  I roughed up the green, and bonded to it.  Check out the pics in my thread:

http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=957&start=45

I guess the questions is, did I get a good secondary bond to the green layer- which you are saying is gelcoat?  UGH...

[Shine]

Some polyesters have a green tint, but looking at you pictures the green looks like it might be putty from around the old transom core.  I just cant tell from teh pictures.

If you ground down to roving you should be fine