Kate's 1974 222 Rebuild

[KlassyKate]

Oh man, THAT is strange looking! He might have an identity crisis I he were to return to that look now! I'll make sure to use that image when we get into pic wars. Thanks!

[Capt Matt]

I started to remove wet stringer foam too, it's quicker to build new stringers and you can make them the new raised height
Either way works though
Good luck on your build
Capt Matt

[Georgie]

Kate - Welcome aboard and thanks for sharing your project.    Lotsa stuff do digest and think about.

I'm foaming and glassing in the sides (from hull side to stringer) to help with a little extra buoyancy and hopefully give a little more support to the hull. Any thoughts/opposition to this?

  I just want to clarify something you probably already know...and feel free to disregard.  Foaming under the deck does not increase buoyancy UNTIL you wreck and breach the hull.  Until that point the foam actually weighs down the boat, and if it traps water (like the waterlogged stringers) it weighs the boat down even more.  Totally your call if you want to go with the safe approach by building a boat that won't sink (Whaler sold a TON of boats touting their unsinkability).  Just know that you need to be careful about resealing any holes or other areas where water can get below deck so you don't run into the same problem all over again, and know that the foam does weight down the boat in the meantime...though not necessarily by a considerable amount.

Good luck!  Can't wait to see the decisions and progress!

[prudog45]

Kate - Welcome aboard and thanks for sharing your project.    Lotsa stuff do digest and think about.

I'm foaming and glassing in the sides (from hull side to stringer) to help with a little extra buoyancy and hopefully give a little more support to the hull. Any thoughts/opposition to this?

  I just want to clarify something you probably already know...and feel free to disregard.  Foaming under the deck does not increase buoyancy UNTIL you wreck and breach the hull.  Until that point the foam actually weighs down the boat, and if it traps water (like the waterlogged stringers) it weighs the boat down even more.  Totally your call if you want to go with the safe approach by building a boat that won't sink (Whaler sold a TON of boats touting their unsinkability).  Just know that you need to be careful about resealing any holes or other areas where water can get below deck so you don't run into the same problem all over again, and know that the foam does weight down the boat in the meantime...though not necessarily by a considerable amount.

Good luck!  Can't wait to see the decisions and progress!

Kate my 1975 Rebuild is going on at the same time as yours. I have my forum post going and it appears we are roughly in the same spot, meaning we are removing foam and deciding what to do. I'm a newbie but lurked a bit before starting to post. This all being said I am very impressed and as my girlfriend is helping me a lot. She will be following your rebuild closely. When she helps me, she doesn't even let me help. I just said to her yesterday "If two guys were doing this they would help each other". But still she refuses and I have to find other jobs when she is working on something. Anyway, for what it is worth welcome and all the luck to us, you have a Whaler under your belt and I have an old Celebrity Cuddy undermine - But the Aquasport is a different game - seems their are more options to change things, could be good, could be bad. The Celebrity I did was a lot of rotten wood stringers and foam in between everything, and I ended up selling it after I put in the floor. My Aquasport 22 Forum is "Ryan's (aka prudog45) 1975 Aquasport 222 Newbie Rebuild"

To my point,
Georgie, If someone, "a friend of a friend" -- Ok it's me, decided to leave the foam out of the stringers, as the fisherman do all along the NC coast when they refinish a boat, they pull foam and leave it out. What option would that leave for the stringers in a AS 222? I'm curious, Im talking to Gran on my forum and he said foam it as it is cheap, and this is probably what I will do, although finding it cheap has been an issue. Well honestly I can't say that as I don't know how much I need per stringer.

[dburr]

hopefully give a little more support to the hull. Any thoughts/opposition to this?

I still have to take the casting platform out. Has anyone removed it with the inner liner still attached? I know it typically gets cut out on it's own, but I wanted to see if this had been done before.

Will post pictures later of today's grinding/cutting/fiberglass itch mess.

A better option for adding support is adding a stiffing core layer of your choice in between stringers.. What is the plan for a deck core? Take a look at what Aaron (Aswaff400) is doing on his Flattie and what Scotty (gran398) done to the topsides on Miss D.  Ryan was all over it about buoyancy, that is defined by hull shape.

Really great progress and fast work!!  

[Aswaff400]

welcome!

i kept the original stringers in my '68 22-2, i went from 5 stringers to 2. i added additional glass inside and out and refoamed the inside with 4lb foam. if i where to do it all over again, i would have completely removed the stringers and start fresh. from about midships-forward, my stringers where almost completely delam'd from the hull, and about 3/4 of the starboard stringer was delam'd... it was a PITA to glass the inside of the original stringers... for the foam outside the stringers, i poted not to refoam and make use of the extra space below deck from raising the deck. i did opt to core the running surface of my hull to deaden the sound while running and make the hull bottom more rigid. she's solid as a rock now and am happy with how she's coming along.

heres a link to my rebuild. http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/ ... f=2&t=9842

[KlassyKate]

Well the great ol' workplace has kept me beyond busy for the last couple weeks, making my days off house chore days rather than boat building days. Yesterday I was finally able to make some progress. I had been battling with the decision to keep in or take out the stringers, so I decided that I couldn't have any reservations if I started with a blank slate, so out they came. After digging in, I am glad that I went for this route! Either time or some lapse in craftsmanship caused the delamitation to be much worse than I initially suspected. After a couple hours (and a couple very strong rum drinks), I had both stringers mostly out and some rotten wood under fiberglass near the keel. Here is the current picture:



Next step: cut the platform out (any suggestions on process?), stabilize and remove the cap, then get to work on the transom. Only two months until scallop season! Gotta get this project on overdrive.

[gran398]

Glad you're back!

Scroll down, casting deck loose:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10459

[CLM65]

Can't offer much advice on the platform removal - mine was trash and I just ripped it out.  

What are your plans for the rebuild?  Enclosed transom?  Raise the deck?  Poly?  Vinylester?  Epoxy?  Composite material or plywood?  Lots of decisions.  I don't know if this scallop season is realistic, but if you have it all planned out and can make the time, anything is possible

[Aquasport Commodore]

I wouldn't remove the cap or casting deck till you have the transom in and solid. This will help with keeping it all square. I would brace the cap across the top approx 2 feet in front of the transom with a 2x4 screwed into it. Once the transom is in, I would remove the cap and the casting deck. After removal of the casting deck, I would re-install the cap. Again to keep it square and level the boat side to side on the lowest possible area you can. Install stringers and template floor decking. (Now would be the time to design the under area of that cap like in the link Gran sent you.) Once templated, build the deck and install it. Once dry remove cap, and install casting deck. Once secured and dry, re-install cap. Also don't forget to put supports on the hull side to hold the deck up and in place along with bulkheads for bracing under the floor at the deck joints.

[KlassyKate]

I wouldn't remove the cap or casting deck till you have the transom in and solid. This will help with keeping it all square. I would brace the cap across the top approx 2 feet in front of the transom with a 2x4 screwed into it. Once the transom is in, I would remove the cap and the casting deck. After removal of the casting deck, I would re-install the cap. Again to keep it square and level the boat side to side on the lowest possible area you can. Install stringers and template floor decking. (Now would be the time to design the under area of that cap like in the link Gran sent you.) Once templated, build the deck and install it. Once dry remove cap, and install casting deck. Once secured and dry, re-install cap. Also don't forget to put supports on the hull side to hold the deck up and in place along with bulkheads for bracing under the floor at the deck joints.

Thanks! That's kinda what I needed to hear. My hmm-hawing around has been mostly due to lack of direction rather than commitment. Yesterday I picked up a load of 8' and 10' boards to brace hull and build a support for the cap once it comes off. I've got her pretty well supported - two points under the keel and four solid, well placed points along the sides. Getting that transom done next will be my biggest headache (hopefully) and getting it out of the way now will be good for down the road.

Can't offer much advice on the platform removal - mine was trash and I just ripped it out.  

What are your plans for the rebuild?  Enclosed transom?  Raise the deck?  Poly?  Vinylester?  Epoxy?  Composite material or plywood?  Lots of decisions.  I don't know if this scallop season is realistic, but if you have it all planned out and can make the time, anything is possible

As far as rebuild plans, I've got in mind what I want to get done just have to get the steps down. I operate systematically and I'm a habitual list maker - having a plan laid out with literally steps 1,2,3, etc keeps me organized. Needless to say, I haven't made that list - flying by the seat of my pants is how this rebuild is going! The general plans are as follows (not in procedural order, rather brain-dump fashion):

1. Overall stick as close to classic look as possible and keep it simple
2. Price composite stringers, but most likely go with wood for cost sake. It's going to be my boat for a long time and I'm not afraid of wood - boats have been made from wood for thousands of years! Patience and attention to detail can give more piece of mind than spending an arm and a leg. I'd rather take that extra $$ and get nicer toys like side-scan (drools)
3. Raise the deck, but not the platform. This boat has got to be self bailing as it will most likely be left in the water unattended for long periods of time. Will need help and advice down the road as far as scupper placement and anything related to this matter. I have no experience with that kind of stuff at all! Use ply for the floor.
4. Close the transom in using ply.
5. Add sub-flooring supports for a small tower near the stern and a single vertical support on each side to support the cap and gunnel.
6. Remove cap, pull all of the old rotten crap from it, and replace with some sort of composite/pre-made backing for cleats and rod holders.
7. Re-install nearly brand new fuel tank that came with the boat, but shift location of tank forward of previous location. I'd also like to add a fresh water tank forward as well - will consider that more in depth when the time comes.
8. I'm not going to touch the gelcoat - I'll leave that up to someone who has way more skill in that area. Went with Awlgrip on my Whaler and liked the way that it turned out - might go back with that on this thing.
9. I want to do a small tower aft with a single console - nothing crazy like some of these things that I like to call "status symbols"; rather something that gives me a little more of a vantage point over the bow and has a slightly different purpose than my fiancé Rick's boat. He's got a 24' Bay Rider by Kencraft with the back turned into an elevated deck, leaving the rest open for fishing - it's perfect as a flats guide boat!
10. Ideally I'd like to power her with a used Yamaha 200 4-stroke, but I may end up taking Rick's Yamaha 150 4-stroke off of his boat so he can get a new one.

I guess it's safe to say my main goal is to get the hull solid and water-worthy and worry about the cosmetics and my ideal setup as time progresses. Money is not free flowing and while my entire investment in this project is a whopping $80 so far, I know all of the expensive stuff is yet to come. If I can get her solid below deck and in the water with no new paint, a temporary console, and some sort of power (as long as it's not a Merc), I'll be happy. The above deck can always come down the road.

Whew.... it feels nice to write all of that down! Thanks guys for guiding me in the right direction and asking me the questions that I know I need to commit answers to. Back to some more itchy fiberglass.....

[KlassyKate]

And it seems that I forgot to mention my latest news....

I passed my captains exam last Tuesday!    

One step closer and a great motivating point for this project!

[seabob4]

And it seems that I forgot to mention my latest news....

I passed my captains exam last Tuesday!    

One step closer and a great motivating point for this project!

Congrats, Kate!  Now you can chase down the Biffer and pry all his #'s out of him...

[CLM65]

Congratulations, Kate!  Good for you  

[RickK]

Congrats Kate