Ryan's (aka prudog45) 1975 Aquasport 222 Newbie Rebuild

[prudog45]

OK so back to our Aquasport rebuild. No pics to share because I'm honestly stalled. Its fine I'll find my way in a few days. Honestly I have some questions. And I did do some cas.com searching and came up with some answers. But not all.  So before I begin again, or better yet to recap I'm beefing up the transom first. Adding 3/4 inch Marine plywood and glassing it all together. Went round and round in conversation with my one local sources of advice about using epoxy to join the existing transom to the new board. I was worried because at some point we will have to switch back to polyester. So my thought was just use polyester to join them. Overlapping with 1 1/2 inch chop strand, many lyers, possibly with the last couple cloths being roven woven. I can then build my existing stringers right into the transom, any thoughts? Using epoxy would be better, but for cost and such it seems that polyeyester would be fine. The transom is solid I'm going for thickness.

The 3/4 inch keel board, leave it, or take it out? Don't see any real issues with it. I know there is wood inside buy the thought of taking this out is honestly a nightmare to be. I feel I'm messing too much with the integrity of the boat.


I left the existing stringer skin in place. Going to add some stiffness by again using marine plywood glasses in. They will be refoamed. Anynissues with this?

The bildge / stern drive mount at stern. Take it out, or leave it? Seems leaving it is best scenario as there I is extra foam back there with it.

I've got so many but these are juggling around in my head.  

[RickK]

Ok Ryan, let's try to tackle this.  Here is the last pic you uploaded and I assume that all the foam is now gone from the inside of the stringers - correct?


As for the transom, I don't see any pics that really shows us why you want to beef it up.  If you could post some that would help us. Other wise a total of 2-3/4 plys is sufficient.  We need some pics though.  We have some talented people here that have actually done possibly the same thing that you're asking and can help if they can see what you're talking about.

Stringers: I am going to assume that the stringers are firmly bonded tot he hull. Correct?
Is you plan to raise the floor any?  Either way it looks like you have a couple repairs to do to the gaps in the stringers before you can refoam.
Take a grinder and scruff up both sides (forward and aft) of the area to be repaired to include the hull out about 4" on all.  You should also grind inside the stringer at the same places. To repair the stringers you can use wood as a "form" and then just cover the wood tightly with a vinyl drop cloth ($1 at HD).  I would create a form that fits on the bilge side of the stringers and make it long enough that you can use some clamps farther out fore and aft to clamp the form to the stringer skins. Then using poly (since that is what you want to use) lay in some 3/4 oz or 1.5 oz mat and then a piece of 1708 cloth and then some more mat over that.  Make sure you overlap the layers a little wider on each layer and allow 2-4" of adhesion on the fore and aft - do this all at once (called wet on wet).
Let that kick and then remove the wood form - it'll pull right off because the plastic won't let it stick to the wood.  Now you have a complete stringer that you can now lam again from the bilge side with the same process.

As for the engine mounts - if they're not loose leave them, doesn't hurt a thing.

[prudog45]

Rick thanks for your I put. I will upload pics this week. Back to work tonight. But I'm absorbing what you said. A bit of confusion comes regarding removing the wood. But if I read it 20 more times maybe I'll understand :) thanks so much. Oh I don't prefer poly economically it is my best choice. 5 months ago I would of been talking all epoxy. The main reason for poly is I might have access to a chopper gun. That will make a lot of this easier :)

[RickK]

The main thing is don't make a bigger deal out of it than it is.  I'm guilty of that too and had to hear it from someone else before I realized it  
If the form is wrapped in a cheap plastic drop cloth (cut to kind of be flat but not waste the rest of the drop cloth of course), the plastic drop cloth will just pull off the resin.  I just posted the same thing as I built a hatch.

[prudog45]

"The main thing is don't make a bigger deal out of it than it is."

Rick, that is me to a T!! Albeit, I generally end up with what my intended goal was. But the between time, and over thinking surely causes me too much stress. This is suppose to be fun :-) I think my stress comes from working nights, and then trying to do what I can during my days off. I'm usually dog tired, and when I'm dog tired I over think everything. And those that help from time to time, especially my girlfriend and also co captain Jenny has said, we should of bought turn key, seeing you like this is not worth it. She doesn't understand, I had a brand new boat prior to this one, and I obsessed and over it --- jack plates, trolling motor, push pole mounting, waxing, washing, mildew was like my constant enemy. I was on that boat daily looking for mildew anywhere. I opened every hatch and pulled ever access cover and placed in in the garage after i washed it from a fishing trip. I ran freshwater through the engine for much longer than I needed to. I checked all pumps and lights once or twice a week. Started it on the hose once or twice a week.  :bom:  :bounce:  

I want to get this completed knowing I learned a lot. I want to be proud that I took the time to know what I was doing. Sure I expect mistakes, I have way to far to go not to make some.  I just want to walk away knowing if a friend decides to rebuild his boat I can help with some know how. I say it is the economy we live in. What I used to hire others to do, I'm just learning to do these things myself. At least thats it in my case. HVAC, your next!! :-) I have not issues with it, but when I do, i want to be ready!!