Ryan's (aka prudog45) 1975 Aquasport 222 Newbie Rebuild

[prudog45]

Thanks everyone for your comments.

Yes I can see the link you provided Capt Bob. Of course I have 4 other pcs to troubleshoot if they don't see them. But this is awesome awesome awesome..... It is exactly what I needed, 100% ecstatic this moment. I can not express my gratitude enough!!

Tomorrow, the show is on. I will start my new forum from a newbie rebuild perspective, and try to keep up with every step / with Pics, I know this is hard, so I will hire my 16 year old to take pics (take them or don't eat   LOL). I'm at least an OCD newbie. The economy is going to make a lot of us become better at taking care of things ourselves :-)

Thanks Again !!!

[Capt. Bob]

Yes I can see the link you provided Capt Bob. Of course I have 4 other pcs to troubleshoot if they don't see them. But this is awesome awesome awesome..... It is exactly what I needed, 100% ecstatic this moment. I can not express my gratitude enough!!!

As always, our pleasure and remember that the idea of creating Gran's rebuild in a condensed form is just what he hoped it would be. A guide and "idea book" for a future re-builder just like yourself.

Looks like he finally got one right.

Good luck and we look forward to your rebuild.

[prudog45]

Hi PD, welcome back.  I'll try to answer what I can below.
1) There are a couple ways to tackle what you want to do.
    a) the best way would be to pop the whole liner out as one, flip it and recore the bottom.  Most of us don't know how to do this (including me) so we move to the next option.
    b) cut out the floor and leave a 2" ledge around perimeter to lay the new floor on.  That's what I did the first time I replaced the floor in my 170.  Worked fine.
    c) Cutting the top off the stringers is a normal way to de-foam them, you'll have to do some finagling to get the foam out from the portions of the stringers that extend under the casting deck.  Been done before here and documented.

2) The "trough" is something you will have to cut out separately and you'll have to fabricate a ledge or glass the new floor to the side of the liner. What I did was left it where it was and added another layer of flooring on top of it.  If you want it gone, then you'll have to cut it out.

3) Poly tanks are pretty rugged, can you reuse it?  Pull it, check it out and see if it is still usable.  Orient it the way it should be and it could save you some major denaro.
I would stay away from exposed wood on the rebuild. It will be a PITA for the rest of the time you own it.  The tank cover may be too big or seem to be because it has to end in the middle of the stringers.  You won't know until you pull it apart.

Now for the "not being able to see pictures" problem.  You can't see any?  If you go to the gallery can you see them? What kind of device are you using?  PC, Mac, smartphone?

Rickk - Question:

You stated   "a) the best way would be to pop the whole liner out as one, flip it and recore the bottom."

When you state this your talking about removing the old wood from the floor and putting in new marine plywood and then glassing correct? I do know how to do that, the guy helping me before had be do this to the cable trough cover and the gas tank cover. They are both just fiberglass skin now. When, you said most of us don't know how to do this, are you speaking of removing the entire floor? Because this is what I think Im going to attempt today. But I think I can only do it and then leave that little bit 2" off gunnel. Is there a way to remove the entire floor in one piece. Would it be removing that trim around the bottom (going from memory) and then cutting right at the edge. Oh that sounds scary even thinking it, once slip and Im through the Hull itself. But I could probably manage to take it all out leaving the 2" gap. Leave the casting deck in place, and pull it all in one piece, then remove all bottom wood. Boy I wish I could go back now. I sanded the top smooth to reapply new gelcoat, and non-skid. But almost everything is fixable right?  

Im a few hours from staring for a while, then firing up my saw, dremel, and whatever other tool I can come up with to start this whole trial and error process.

[RickK]

Rickk - Question:

You stated   "a) the best way would be to pop the whole liner out as one, flip it and recore the bottom."

When you state this your talking about removing the old wood from the floor and putting in new marine plywood and then glassing correct? I do know how to do that, the guy helping me before had be do this to the cable trough cover and the gas tank cover. They are both just fiberglass skin now.

I'm talking about removing the screws all the way around the cap, cutting the transom cap loose and somehow "popping" everything loose, liner and all and lifting the entire liner/cap/sole off the boat and then flipping it, etc

When, you said most of us don't know how to do this, are you speaking of removing the entire floor? Because this is what I think Im going to attempt today. But I think I can only do it and then leave that little bit 2" off gunnel. Is there a way to remove the entire floor in one piece. Would it be removing that trim around the bottom (going from memory) and then cutting right at the edge. Oh that sounds scary even thinking it, once slip and Im through the Hull itself. But I could probably manage to take it all out leaving the 2" gap. Leave the casting deck in place, and pull it all in one piece, then remove all bottom wood. Boy I wish I could go back now. I sanded the top smooth to reapply new gelcoat, and non-skid. But almost everything is fixable right?  

Im a few hours from staring for a while, then firing up my saw, dremel, and whatever other tool I can come up with to start this whole trial and error process.

See above answer. It's a skill that must be learned from someone that has popped a liner out of a boat before.  There was a post recently, if anyone remembers where it was, that showed this happening.

[prudog45]

Rickk it wasn't long into my pulling the floor that I had to change everything I has inteneded. I had expected hiccupes but not so soon. Oh well, I will have to put in a new floor. Getting the deck from the stringers somewhat has me stalled. I hope tomorrow to have it all the way out. But we will see.

Thanks for the reply

[Capt. Bob]

Rickk - Question:

You stated   "a) the best way would be to pop the whole liner out as one, flip it and recore the bottom."

When you state this your talking about removing the old wood from the floor and putting in new marine plywood and then glassing correct? I do know how to do that, the guy helping me before had be do this to the cable trough cover and the gas tank cover. They are both just fiberglass skin now.

I'm talking about removing the screws all the way around the cap, cutting the transom cap loose and somehow "popping" everything loose, liner and all and lifting the entire liner/cap/sole off the boat and then flipping it, etc

When, you said most of us don't know how to do this, are you speaking of removing the entire floor? Because this is what I think Im going to attempt today. But I think I can only do it and then leave that little bit 2" off gunnel. Is there a way to remove the entire floor in one piece. Would it be removing that trim around the bottom (going from memory) and then cutting right at the edge. Oh that sounds scary even thinking it, once slip and Im through the Hull itself. But I could probably manage to take it all out leaving the 2" gap. Leave the casting deck in place, and pull it all in one piece, then remove all bottom wood. Boy I wish I could go back now. I sanded the top smooth to reapply new gelcoat, and non-skid. But almost everything is fixable right?  <!-- s:shock: --><!-- s:shock: -->

Im a few hours from staring for a while, then firing up my saw, dremel, and whatever other tool I can come up with to start this whole trial and error process.

See above answer. It's a skill that must be learned from someone that has popped a liner out of a boat before.  There was a post recently, if anyone remembers where it was, that showed this happening.

Here ya go.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=8901.0


PD, please note:
I have merged your original thread on floor removal with your rebuild thread. The continuity is still here so now you can just post to this active thread. I have deleted the other thread but it's contents still exist in this thread.

Good luck.

[prudog45]

Hello everyone. After working so late yesterday (day 1) and ending up at the dentist, my Girlfriend is a Hygienist, literally a qtr mile down the road, to get stitches in my mouth because of popping myself in the mouth with a piece of wood. It pushed my top two teeth  through my bottom lip, literally it went through all the way. We will say Aquasport 222 vs Prudog45 Day 1, Winner Aquasport!!   She, The Aquasport, got a break today as I slept too late. I work nights, and it's tough breaking that schedule on days off, by the time I drug myself out of bed my boat was locked in up at the Mercury Dealer after close. Could be better this way, a day break for me.

WORDY ALERT BELOW:
I did just speak to  another member over the phone about something unrelated to this post. He made me feel better. He said cut the floor out and leave the stringers with their bit of floor enact and work on it separately after. This is what I wanted to do, but my help, who is also my teacher, was working on a Yamaha motor. I kept walking over to him and telling him NASA engineers came up with a formula to attach the floor to the stringers. He kept sending me back and saying you'll get it with a sawzaw, just keep at it. I literally tried to use his boat hoist to pull the floor out when I had cut out the edges, It literally picked up the entire boat. That stringer to hull glue Aquasport used in 1975 by Aquasport is of a formula not known to man, as it defies the laws of physics. My teacher and the Mercury / Yamaha Marine dealership owner said I had to cut the stringers loose with a longer sawzaw blade. I of course said, no, I have been reading this forum for a year and its coming out. Well it is coming out but not with the sawzaw, and not with the boat lift. I have to go against my teachers wishes. Ok, I'll stop calling him that, but it reminded me of an old Master and Student Karate movie, where the Student becomes the teacher. Because tomorrow I have to defy his wishes and do as this other member said, and say heck with saving anything. Cut the stringers loose and pull the floor. Back to K I S S (Keep it simple stupid).

Thanks for the link to removing the entire inside, this idea will not work for me anymore. I wished I would of been ahead of the game, but I had my transom done before I started on the inside. It worked out that way due to finding little things in the floor when he was doing the transom.

Again, this forum has proved more valuable than words. The call I had from another member a moment ago. Also Capt Bob providing the Ms Delmarva rebuild link with pics are so so valuable. Thanks to everyone so much for you post.

You will notice I use humor a lot when disgruntled. It is my way, I learned it from my father. And if I didn't have this humor, I surely wouldn't be sure about all obstacles I encounter with this boat, or in life. This and my faith have brought me father than I ever thought possible. But I am a man, so if you see me disguise an explicative, well that's me. And I assume children read this sited other words even if I think others fit better and are much more colorful!!!  

:-) Until tomorrow my Aquasport Friends. I'm off to Lowe's to find somethings. Mainly a new blade :)

[gman 82 aquasport]

Here's how I got my floor loose from the stringers when rebuilding mine. Did all the cuts all the way around and left the front alone..made 2 cuts about a foot apart about 2 feet in from the transom, side to side, took a long pry bar and started prying the floor up. Yes it split all to pieces, but that's OK. Once I got that first section out I had room to work and wound up taking a 4 inch concrete chisel and a BFH(Big Friggin Hammer) and started popping the mother of all adhesives loose...got some loose made another cut and remove that section, about 6 hours later was at the front and finished, just had to go back and chip the remaining glue loose and hit it with a grinder with 24 grit..Nasty job but it is doable. Saw blades. I used a rough cut plywood blade, smooth cut gets dull to easy and gets clogged..Just set your depth to just cut thru the floor..Looking forward to seeing pics

[seabob4]

The irony in all these "stringer up" rebuilds is that, when these boats were decked or the liners installed, these were done in such a manner as to NOT come apart!!  For years, we (and most other builders) used Arjay polyester bonding putty, which obviously has a pretty aggressive adhesion.  In '08, Arjay came out with a "new and improved" putty which has an adhesion damn near the strength of Plexus.

Rebuilds down the road are gonna be fun...

[prudog45]

Day 2: OK i have to get pictuures  however the floor is 90% out I have to remove the floor off the stringers-- And chiseling it may be the way. Question, why can't I just curt the top of the stringers off when I get most of the floor off? I'm going to remove the.top to pull the wet foam anyway I can just glass back over it right? Is their marine plywood in the tops so I need to save it? And is everyone refoaming them, or is there as better method? Sorry for ,missing the pics I'll get some up tomorrow.

Here is all I did. So I had cut all the way around the boat leaving about 2 inches all the way around then today. I found a long straight board and laid it about 1/2 inch from the stringer and drew a line. I did this on both sides. After that everything started coming out just fine including some of the deck attached to the stringers. So from what I can see the casting casting.deck is fine. So as of now I'm leaving it. Next step tops of stringers. Possibly a layer or two of fiberglass inside the hull just for warm and fuzzy. Then I'm in for many decisions. I need a live well but don't know if I have the talent to make one like' all the ones I've seen on here. But we will see after cleaning up the inside running PVC for wiring running new gas hoses-building a cradle of some sort for the gas tank' which is poly so I'm keeping it. I'll keep everyone posted. Day 3 is tomorrow I fell lots of cleanup to see what I'm dealing with will be most of the day-pictures to come..

[Aquasport Commodore]

You could find the front and back of the stringers going bow to stern and string a chalk line just on the inside of the top of the stringers. Do this on both sides of the top on both stringers. Then use a circular saw, cut on the inside of the chalk line and removing the top and wood. Once done, you can remove the foam, then fix what is needed inside and out. Refoam, make leval, refiberglass, and your done. Easy pieze lemon squeezy

[CLM65]

You can do as aqua suggested.  That will leave the reference for the top of the stringers.  You would still need to remove the remaining strips of deck between the current cut line and aqua's cut line, but that should be a little easier.

But one thing to consider is deck height.  Many of us raise the decks on these older 22's to promote better self-bailing and minimize water ingress if 2 or 3 people move to the back of the boat.  If you plan to do that, you might as well cut the tops off as you suggested.  Cutting the tops off will also give you better access inside the stingers.  This will help for foam removal, and also for tabbing in the inside of the stringers to the hull.  That is assuming you are going to leave the stringers in place.  Some people pull the stringers all the way out, then add glass to the hull, then re-install the stringers or make new ones.  It seems that most people go back with foam-filled stringers, but others use composite or foam boards (look like lumber) to make new stringers.  I guess each as benefits - so I think it is a matter of preference and what you are comfortable with.

Which ever way you go, good luck, and don't let the boat beat you!

[prudog45]

Well started removing foam in the stringers today. Baby steps, this is when you start thinking OMGosh can I really do this. Trying to upload Photos. Not much success yet. My girlfriend Jenny took a bunch at my request with her Nikon DSLR. The sizes are too big. I'm trying to downsize them. Please be patient with me. I'm trying :-)

Ok I think I got it. Here are the pictures thus far. I converted these to 1000x100 as the site said that was the size limit. I see them now and they look small. I will have to do some reading on uploading on CAS.com

Note:
Transom Rebuild Done
Paint Job Done
Floor Removed
Transom Foam remobal in process

In Pics myself, my girlfriend Jenny, and her son Ethan.

Removed Thumbnail Pics to add full Pictures.

[Aquasport Commodore]

If you dont already have one, get one of the lineman shovels. Looks like a bent spade with a curve. Slice down the middle the pop out.

[prudog45]

[attachment=0:8t9tdows]DSC_0020.jpg[/attachment:8t9tdows][attachment=1:8t9tdows]DSC_0013.jpg[/attachment:8t9tdows][attachment=2:8t9tdows]DSC_0007.jpg[/attachment:8t9tdows]More Pics - Still too small but until I can fix them.

I read Rickk's Photo upload link: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=111

I'll fix these up when it's not 01:00 AM   I apologize for there size now.  

Thank you all for the time you have taken to give me feedback and support. This has been by far the best forum Ive ever had the privileged of getting to speak with each of you. I see the pictures and I try to duplicate what I see. It;s tough at times, so I cross my fingers I can pull off this rebuild as well as many of you..... As I stated before I'm a bit overwhelmed now. I wished I had a second boat so I wouldn't feel like the clock is ticking. I'll figure it out. Time to use the Kayak this year I suppose :-)