New (used) motor for Slipaway

[seabob4]

Lewis, the hell with the motor, where did you get that washdown fitting, Lawrenceville Ma & Pa Hardware and feed store?  

[slvrlng]

So after getting the motor off and getting the bolts and washers out you can see how far the inner skin has been crushed in. The really good news is that the wood inside the bolt holes is very dry and extremely hard.  
There is also absolutely zero flex in the transom as well  

Here are a couple of pics of just how far they are indented.



This is the worst one.


My thought at this time is seal the inside of the holes with epoxy and put the newer motor on and see how it does.
So what say you?

I also cleaned it up and will probably hang the new one Thursday. That should be enough time for the resin to cure.
Also, there are no indents on the outside of the transom.

[slvrlng]

Lewis, the hell with the motor, where did you get that washdown fitting, Lawrenceville Ma & Pa Hardware and feed store?  

Actually yes I did, it is only temporary and was only 4 bucks. It actually works quite well and I have had zero problems with it. It is also not the washdown but my livewell connection. Don't have a washdown pump yet, but the Piranha pump has the outlet waiting for one!

[icemanbryan]

Lewis, the hell with the motor, where did you get that washdown fitting, Lawrenceville Ma & Pa Hardware and feed store?  

 

[seabob4]

Run with it Lewis!  Re-use the same square washers in the same holes so they conform with the indented areas...    

Seriously, given that your transom is basically solid, I'd grind off the gel around the holes, fill the depressions in with Dura-glass, sand down to flush, brush on some white gel, then hang the motor.  The Dura-glass will give you the strength to keep from compressing when you tighten down the nuts...

[Capt. Bob]

Lewis,
Dry holes are only troublesome to oil drillers. Everyone else uses Astroglide but I digress.

You could put on bigger "washers" but I'd paint the holes inside, put the old bolts/washers back on and let the four winds blow.

Good luck.

[icemanbryan]

Lew, show me the old binnacle corrosion and mounting area.

[slvrlng]

No pics of that yet Bryan! Tomorrow!

[seabob4]

OK, Master Rebuilder thought here...


RIP OUT THE ENTIRE TRANSOM!!  2 PLYS OF 1 1/2" COOSA BLUEWATER WITH ALUMINUM PLATE SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN!!!  FULL WIDTH ALUMINUM BACKING PLATE/WASHERS ON THE INSIDE OF THE SPLASHWELL!!!   KNEES INSTALLED OF SECRET MOLYBDENUM/TITANIUM SANDWICH, GLASSED THE FULL LENGTH OF THE STRINGERS (REQUIRES COCKPIT SOLE REMOVAL)...





Or do what CB said...

[slvrlng]

Run with it Lewis!  Re-use the same square washers in the same holes so they conform with the indented areas...    

Seriously, given that your transom is basically solid, I'd grind off the gel around the holes, fill the depressions in with Dura-glass, sand down to flush, brush on some white gel, then hang the motor.  The Dura-glass will give you the strength to keep from compressing when you tighten down the nuts...

I might try the dura glass Bob, but this hull is not just white. It is what Aquasport called Ivory Mist. I matched auto paint for 12 years and this color is absolutely the toughest color I have ever tried to match. Its got a lot of yellow and brown a little black and it always cures light!

[seabob4]

Let's see...yellow, brown, black, throw in a bit of green...YES, baby chit white!!!   Woo Hoo!!!!    

[RickK]

You could go with these?

[fitz73222]

You could go with these?

Good idea Rick,
Spread the load over a greater area, basically the coring has been crushed; I suspect from over tightening the mounting bolts. I've seen this many times, including on my boat from the original twin '74 70's that mine had on her. I made AL 6061-T6 plates for mine and had them powdercoated to match the hull color so they don't look so industrial. I have the T&H version of the load spreader plates on my flats boat from the day she was new because I am running a CMC hydraulic jack plate with 4" setback and 14 years later, no transom distortion or any gelcoat cracking.

[redemn93]

im using those on my build.  nice pieces.  no crushed fiberglass.  and they look good imo.

[wingtime]

I was going to suggest the plates.  The transom on my 200XF was dented in like yours.  I picked up a set of the plates like those except they had fins on them that made them more ridged.  I think I just put a few washers under the plate to level things out a bit.