Just purchased 1975 19-6.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Just bought this 75 19-6.  I'm going to use the tower of power for the time being, but will almost surely have to address some issues with that as they arise.

The boat is in overall good shape for its age, and I don't intend (nor can I afford) to completely rebuild anything.  I do want to fix what needs fixing and perhaps pretty up some details, etc...but for the time being I want to USE to boat.

Taking it either tonight or tomorrow to the local fiberglass guy to get a quote on getting some things looked at and hopefully addressed.  As I said, I'm not going full-on rebuild, but I can do without the boat for a month and I could swallow another few grand...

Pulled the tank lid and gas fumes didn't knock me over, so that's a start.  For my own peace of mind I'm going to plug all my ports and put 3psi on the tank to see if I have anything to worry about there.

The coring has come lose from much of the gunwale caps...is that something I could template, and work from underneath without much heartache?  

The boat sits heavy (per the waterline)...are there any areas that I could try to remove wet foam without significant deck removal?  There's a pie plate in the center of the "cockpit" in the stern for a bilge pump and that's it as far as I can see for bilge access.  I don't mind cutting another if there's a place or two that makes sense for one.

Any other common problems/solutions?  

I'll get more pictures if/when it is not only daylight when I get home, but daylight AND not raining.

[Blue Agave]

She is a beauty!  Congrats!

The only foam in my '75 was in the stringers and I would bet the same holds for yours.
I recommend you get the ball scuppers mentioned by Wingtime in your other thread. Just
Run her and enjoy her.  

[SaltH2OHokie]

She is a beauty!  Congrats!

The only foam in my '75 was in the stringers and I would bet the same holds for yours.
I recommend you get the ball scuppers mentioned by Wingtime in your other thread. Just
Run her and enjoy her.  

In summation:  Let 'er eat!       Yeah, overall that's my plan...but its cold, and my wife is okay with spending a little on it now...that may not hold true in a few months, so I better make hay while the sun's shining, so-to-speak.

[Blue Agave]

Check out this thread, be interesting to see where how close your HIN is to mine.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4199.0

[SaltH2OHokie]

Fired off the TOWER OF POWER (have to say it in a big booming voice for full effect) this morning on the hose for the first time since I got it.  Was a little tough to get it started first time cold, but once it lit, it ran like it sewing machine.  Cut it off after a few minutes of idling and them bumped the key back to start it up one more time...no exaggeration, it lit somewhere in the range of milliseconds after the bendix hit the flywheel.  Very impressed with that.  

Two (and a half) question on her:  

1.) The carbs appear to be dribbling a little fuel out of the inlets (perhaps elsewhere, but as far as I can tell its rolling out of the inlet on each carb, dripping to the carb below, and by the time it gets to the bottom carb, the bottom carb looks like its leaking from every orifice. Not a steady stream as far as I can see, but enough that there was a little pool in the front of the lower cowl when I pulled the clamshell off this morning...so its clearly done it before.  When I first pumped the bulb, I'm sure I over primed it and forced some out, but I don't think that's the only cause.

1.a.) Appears that there is no spark arrestor/filter/etc. on the inlets of the carbs...is this correct?

2.)  Champion L76V plugs...correct?  Where the heck do you find those?  Hate to pay west marine prices for a plug, but the two local autoparts stores drew a blank (and gave a blank look) when I asked for that plug.


Onto the boat itself: after reading threads (including the "registry" thread linked above, to which I will contribute once I get back down there and grab the HIN) I notice adding a hatch in front of the console seems like a very good idea.  What size makes the most sense?  What's the best hatch to use that will be sturdy, water-tight, and not a toe-stubber?

I'd be interested in a bimini and possibly a dodger...are there any available ready made for the boat, or is that a job for the local canvas shop?

[SaltH2OHokie]

And a few pictures from this morning.  Ignore the mess in front of the garage.  It turns out that without being bound by the social contract between neighbors that keeps you from being a slob...I'm a slob...but on the plus side, it bothers no one but my wife, and the occasional prudish visitor (read: mother, and mother-in-law).

Tower of power carbs.  


Tower of power humming along.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Few random photos of the boat.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Few more:

[SaltH2OHokie]

Finally, this morning's helpers: Lugnut and Junebug:

[Capt. Bob]

Sorry to rain on the parade but....
I'd be suspect of that tank.
The only way to tell for sure is to pull it and check the bottom closely.

Just my thought.

[fitz73222]

Very Nice Ryan! I thought my 73 22-2 was in original nice shape, but yours is nicer! Anyone that knows me knows my love for the old Mercs so I have a soft spot for your in line six. Your engine came with BUHW (Champ L76V) NGK's or BUHW-2 (Champ L78V) plugs. I've always liked the NGK's better so you should find the NGK BUHW's at the store. The carbs will drip if you over primed and it will spew out of the bowl vents but should stop after it runs for a while If it drips all of the time, its time for new floats and needles. Ethanol will attack the floats and sometimes cause them to lose boyancy and allow the float needles to not seat tightly and allow them to overfill the bowls and leak out of the vents. Or there is trash in the float needle and seat that won't allow a tight seal. This may also be part of the hard start, I would rebuild them just for shits and giggles but I like rebuilding carbs and those are very simple to rebuild and parts are cheap. Looks like your engine may be a very late 1985 since the starter is dated 1986. One little trick the Merc boys do is plug off the economiser tube fittings with a BB and reinstall the hose. Those are the tubes that run from the fitting on the side of each carb over and across to the back of the carb. The top carb tube has been replaced with a vinyl one in the photo. The economizer design allowed the engine to run leaner in the midrange for better economy by creating a back draft affect but purists say It can cause engine damage, yours may already be plugged. Does she have a water separating fuel filter? If not, its time for one. More to come..

[SaltH2OHokie]

Sorry to rain on the parade but....
I'd be suspect of that tank.
The only way to tell for sure is to pull it and check the bottom closely.

Just my thought.

No parade to rain upon...its original as far as I can tell, and that scares me.  I'm going to pressure test it and see where I stand in the short-term.  Can't hold pressure, new tank...In the long term I'm going to replace it regardless, but if it holds 3psi, I think I'm planning to use it as is for this upcoming summer unless there's a reason not to.


Thanks fitz.  Carb rebuilds are within my purview, but I certainly wouldn't say I "enjoy" rebuilding them.  Any other routine maintenance you'd suggest on her?  Tach is currently inoperative, so I need to rectify that before I can see what RPMs she's spinning at idle and how well the prop is matched.  50:1?  Any favorite oil?  Yes, has a water separating filter, but just the spin-on element, not a drain bowl...which I'm figuring on adding as I like to see what I've got.

[fitz73222]

Funny you should say "rectify" the problem. Tachs sometimes dont work because of a charging system problem. A quick way to find out is crank her up on the flush and connect a volt meter to the battery and rev her up and see if the battery voltage increases with RPM's or stays flat or even declines. That will tell you if you have a tach issue or charging issue. The signal comes from alternator pulses which equates into reading RPM's. The wiring to the tach is purple wire to keyswitch activated 12V, gray to tach signal, black to ground. Depending on the type of tach, there should be a selector switch on the back which should be aimed at 12 pole alt, thats worth a check if you prove the engine is actually charging the battery. I would change the gearlube in the gearcase, pull the prop and grease the propshaft and put a water pump in it as a base line unless the previous owner produced documents of recent service. The tank with the direct reading gage appears original. You are on borrowed time with it but at a minimum, replace the entire fuel hose from tank to engine. Often times our ethanol friend will erode the fuel line innards and wind up as pieces stuck in the carb seats and cause fuel drip. Looks like the powerhead has seen plenty of salt, I would wash the powerhead reasonably well and give it coat of Corrosion Block to slow down the crevise corrosion around the water jacket and exhaust cover and pretty it up a bit. check and clean all electrical connections and apply some dielectric grease to the contact areas to stop further corrosion.

[RickK]

Fired off the TOWER OF POWER (have to say it in a big booming voice for full effect) this morning on the hose for the first time since I got it.  Was a little tough to get it started first time cold, but once it lit, it ran like it sewing machine.  Cut it off after a few minutes of idling and them bumped the key back to start it up one more time...no exaggeration, it lit somewhere in the range of milliseconds after the bendix hit the flywheel.  Very impressed with that.  

They are cold natured but like you say once they're started they're fine.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Tach:  Needle is laying in the bottom of the glass, so I can't do much without buying one.

Water pump:  Seller had receipt for water pump and it pees quite strong, but I may do it anywho...cheap insurance.

Fuel line/fuel tank:  Seller claimed to have pulled the tank, cleaned and inspected it and replaced it.  Seller also had a receipt for fuel line, but I didn't have to take his word on that as I can see it.  He doesn't appear to have lied about the line...can't say about the tank.

Edit to add: I get ethanol free gas from the airport right now (literally 3 miles from my house) and the house we're moving to up on the Eastern Shore shows a Shell with ethanol free 89 not even 3 miles from the house...so I ought to be able to avoid ethanol for the time being.  Not to say the previous owner(s) did...