Wiring Diagram for 2002 Explorer 215

[Rookie]

I'm rewiring a newly purchased 2002 Explorer 215 and have some unidentified wires that need a home in the breaker box. Does anybody have a wiring diagram or know where I can get one? I called Wellcraft and they sent me to Jensen Marina (FL) and the trail went dead with no luck. Also, concerning the fwd bilge pump, it looks like the pump is located in the rear (next to the aft bilge pump), but it has 2 white hoses that tee off and appear to run fwd. Is this correct? The pump in question is a Johnson pump and by the looks of it, it stopped working years ago. Is the fwd bilge pump something I should have in working order? Afterall, the rear bilge is located where most of any water would accumilate.

[Capt. Bob]

Well,
You either have a forward bilge pump or you don't. Some models came with them others didn't but......
Forward bilge pumps are not located in the rear bilge.

Do you have a deck (pie) plate in the cabin? If so a forward bilge pump would be accessed there.

You may be looking at a washdown/livewell pump (does it look connected to a thru hull?) or a grinder pump for your fish boxes.

Wiring diagrams are usually generic rather than model specific.

Let's see what's out there for the above.

Pumps
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6602.0

No fwd. bilge on this year 215EX
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=8650.0

Wiring
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5214.0

Good luck and post a photo or two so we see what you're looking at. <!-- s:thumleft: --><!-- s:thumleft: -->

[Rookie]

Wow! Thank you very much for posting such in depth info!  I don't have a fwd pie hole cover so it seems that I don't have a fwd bilge afterall. The previously mentioned pump hooked up to a pipe tee in the stern, I bet are the pipes to the fishboxes. This now makes sense. This pump is a Johnson pump (not legible in photo but it is one), and should be replaced with a macerator type. I think it pumps out waste right fwd of the aft bilge discharge on the port side. This is the only discharge hole I haven't figured out yet. Please let me know if this seems correct.

For the wiring, I guess I will have to figure out where the homeless wires need to go the hard way- just figured a wiring diagram would be readily available.

Based on the links you posted, it seems I have switches for equipment that doesn't exist on my boat (wipers & fwd bilge pump) that I could repurpose for something else such as spread lights and GPS/Sonar electronics (properly fused in the breaker panel). My panel labels are 90% faded so my panel relabeling effort will hopefully make all switch labels legitimate for their function.

Thanks again Bob for taking the time to share such a wealth of information. It's amazing you knew exactly what to send!

[seabob4]

Rookie, tell us what the "homeless" wire colors are, we can probably identify them...

[Capt. Bob]

I think it pumps out waste right fwd of the aft bilge discharge on the port side. This is the only discharge hole I haven't figured out yet. Please let me know if this seems correct.

I'm not sure on your model but on earlier EXs, there was a port thru hull that allowed drainage for the "cooler" storage area under the port helm seat. There is another thru hull on the starboard side that is used by the "livewell" under the starboard helm seat. Earlier model EXs did not have fishbox pumps.

Based on the links you posted, it seems I have switches for equipment that doesn't exist on my boat (wipers & fwd bilge pump) that I could repurpose for something else such as spread lights and GPS/Sonar electronics (properly fused in the breaker panel). My panel labels are 90% faded so my panel relabeling effort will hopefully make all switch labels legitimate for their function.

This is very common and members do this often.

Thanks again

My pleasure.

When you get a chance, post a few photos of your craft. You might want to post to the "Intro" thread at the top of the Aqua Discussion forum and let us know something about you and your boat, though not required.
Any work you feel comfortable documenting, especially with photos is always encouraged because it often addresses common problems and solutions others can benefit from, like you have.

Good luck.

[Rookie]

Wire #48 appears to be 16 ga and is blue with a very thin black stripe. It quickly disappears in a bundle from the cabin wiring and heads aft. Wire #60 seems to be 12 ga and runs from the cabin breaker box to the front panel and sits with an empty female blade terminal, like it's suppose to hook up to something. Everything else is working except for my digital gauges (Speedo & Tach only) so #48 could possibly have something to do with one of them.

The wife and I are very excited to be trailering the boat from Kissimmee to MCL tomorrow morning to meet with Jake to replace typical items. I will be buying new Yamaha digital gauges too. If they currently don't work because of wire #48, I'm not as concerned at this point because I need new gauges anyways. The front faces of the current ones are really weathered and cannot be read. If the new ones still don't work, then #48 has to be suspect. I'd like to know where this wire goes regardless.

As far as the fishbox drains, pumps, hoses, etc, it seems it would be easier if I took some pics, labeled them and then posted. Based on the responses, I may have an early model EX. I will also post a pic, maybe a before & after, and some bio info when I get time. My real job is getting in the way of my Aquasport activities!!!!

Thanks so much again for your insight!

[seabob4]

#48 (blue w/blk stripe) is a lighting wire.  All marine lighting is blue with some color stripe.  Brown wires are pumps, horn is typically orange, fuel sender is pink, and the list goes on...

Your gauges work off the engine harness, not the boat's harness.  They are two separate electrical systems that share a common ground.

What color is wire #60?  For some reason, that rings a bell.  FYI, I used to build Aquasports until 2000, your '02 isn't that much different being 2 years after I left...

[Rookie]

Hmmm.....courtesy, the 3 gauge lights, anchor & nav lights all are working, except for the cabin dome light! Not a priority yet, since  I figured (hoped) it was a bulb. But now I'm eager to resolve #48 and see if that does the trick.

Wire #60 is 12 ga red with a blue strip. It hooks up the to breaker box and runs to an unused female blade terminal. This wire is also zipped tied along with 2 brown wires going to the....you guessed it, the non-existant fwd bilge pump! Maybe a spare? (I think I hate that pump I never had!).

We brought home 2 new Yamaha digital Speed & Tach gauges today from MCL. Hopefully they will hook up without a hitch. I will let you know. We also looked at a T-Top with a fiberglass roof (via forklift). It's for a Boston Whaler but looked like it would fit without much modification. The unit is $2500. and includes an integral storage box under roof. If we go custom, I think it would be more. But foremost, what is your opinion regarding adding this piece of equipment on a 12 year old boat? We don't want to afford a loaded newer $40K boat, but are concerned about putting too much money into this one.  

Also, do you believe it to be feasible for a fabricator to modify and install such a piece? The reps told us no problem, but I still would like a second opinion, in general terms, about typical results in doing this. I tried to upload pics (adjusted the pixels 1100 X 100) but apparently haven't figured the entire process yet.

Again, I really appreciate your help. I'm not sure where else I could turn to for detailed knowledge.

[dburr]

But foremost, what is your opinion regarding adding this piece of equipment on a 12 year old boat? We don't want to afford a loaded newer $40K boat, but are concerned about putting too much money into this one.  

Also, do you believe it to be feasible for a fabricator to modify and install such a piece? The reps told us no problem.

Welcome Aboard!!!!  This is not the crowd to ask for sound financial advice when it comes to these hulls..  The average member has spent what normal people would call ridiculous amounts on these hulls that are often 25+ years old. Buy a tired, run out hull and motor for +/-2500, spent 5-20k in material  and time and still want to tune her up a bit. Then the motor work will start.

The Bigger question is what do you guys want to do? If the Big Boss is for a hard top then do it .  If you are concerned about getting out what you spend on parts/improvements, if someone else does the work then most likely you will not see any return.  If you have someone who will stand by their work and deliver the product you are looking for, then by all means add a top because it is what you two want to do.  A minor concern for an add on like that is additional weight and how high up it will be. If you go for max headroom and put the top up high it may change the way she will move in a sea (and look find of goofy). The rolling period could be a little slower and a little longer, without knowing how much the top will weigh it is hard to say how much it might change.  However, that is not the end of the world...  The lighter the better, lots of Explorers have hard tops an it adds a good look to the boat as well..

Good luck!!

[seabob4]

I'll through my 2 pennies in here if you guys don't mind.  First, in regards to a forward bilge, when I was building them, ALL Wellcraft and Aquasport cabin boats had a fwd bilge pump...typically operated off a float switch only.  Rookie, see if there is a "pad" glassed to the hull bottom that might have some existing holes in it.  This is where your fwd bilge pump would have been located.  It's possible it wasn't located under an access pie, but maybe behind a close-out b/head below the companionway door.

Now, about hardtops.  The main concerns with using a top designed for another boat are where the legs land.  You'll have (4) fwd legs with bolt to through the cabin top, (2) inboard towards the center of the windshield, (2) outboard towards where the cabin top almost starts to turn downward to the cabin sides.  The (4) aft legs bolt to the "wings" at the helm, (2) just below the ends of the windshield, (2) lower towards the low ends of the wings.  Getting all (8) of those legs to land correctly without major aluminum surgery is going to be a challenge.  Hopefully it would just be a matter of cutting off a few mounting pads and welding on some new ones at the correct "rake".  Obviously, you would need some dimensions from your boat (particularly, the width between the mounting flats on the wings) to see if the Whaler top is even feasable.

Don't want to sound like a nervous nellie here, but dropping $2500 on a part that either may not work or is going to take some serious alteration just may not be worth it...

[Rookie]

We were thinking about the additional advantages for offshore fishing a hard top would bring. We both like the look of one too. I was unaware of pitch/roll effects from additional top weight. I should've picked it up on one end while it sat on the ground to get an idea on the weight. When it sat on top of the boat, I walked underneath it and I had plenty of head room ....maybe too much? I'm 6'4" and already goofy enough so I don't need any additional help. I will research the weight & head room further. The width dimensions remarkably appeared to be exact on both the cabin and the helm widths. And the rake was unbelievably right on. Stay tuned and thanks for the pointers!!!

We came across a Wellcraft wiring code list on the AS forum today which said #48 is the light to the live well and #60 is the trim tab power feed. For the elusive fwd bilge pump, I'm still looking (no visible fwd pie plate, nothing under the cabin step fairing). However, there's a raised starboard base that the porta potty secures to in a small recess under the main floor deck and sits on an Al channel. It got dark on me and I couldn't figure out how to remove it to check for a pie cover. It almost seemed to be attached from underneath cause it wasn't obvious on how it was to be removed. I'm going to get to this fwd bilge thing if I have to cut a hole in the floor myself!!!!

This week will be spent rebuilding the trailer- lights, all U bolts, brake shoes, new lines & master cylinder--- all boring stuff but necessary. I bought some mar Pro 95% cold galvanizing zinc coating I will try out. Hope it will spruce the wheels up a bit. Can't hurt at $8 a can.

[Rookie]

I uploaded pics of the T top held up over the boat using a forklift. Hopefuly they uploaded correctly.

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... ie&cat=500

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http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 14_044.JPG[/img][/url

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 14_041.JPG[/img][/url

[Capt. Bob]

For the elusive fwd bilge pump, I'm still looking (no visible fwd pie plate, nothing under the cabin step fairing).

In the photo below, please note the thru hull below and to the left of the TM decal.


Earlier EXs had an additional thru hull for the forward bilge discharge that was located on the starboard side also and would be forward of that decal. It could be located on your port side (you have no pic of that so I can't tell). The thru hull in the above photo is for your live well discharge. You may find another one (on the port side) for the cooler discharge. I would also think you'll find the rear bilge discharge and fish box(s) discharge also on the port side. Post a pic of the left side of the hull so we can see what you've got.

Good luck.

[Rookie]

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 14_007.JPG[/img][/url]

Based on your description- aft bilge, fish box discharge & cooler drain, it seems like I don't have a fwd bilge after all? If this is the case I'm goiing to install one anyways at this point, just because!

What is your opinion of the top in the pics? Top too big? just right? goofy?

I know pictures are very limited but I would appreciate any feedback.

[Circle Hooked]

Also to add to this, your bilge discharge would be higher then the discharge for your cooler, just a few inches under the rub rail

The top looks good, I don't have one on mine because I do alot of drift fishing and these boats pich and roll enough already without the extra weight up high