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Author Topic: Seized Steering Part II  (Read 1079 times)

February 17, 2014, 09:17:58 PM
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CTsalt12

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Seized Steering Part II
« on: February 17, 2014, 09:17:58 PM »
Hi All,

I hate to start a thread on a topic that has been covered a lot, but i have a specific issue I can't seem to fix.  My steering is stuck with the wheel turned hard right, the steering rod all the way outside the tilt tube, and the steering cable? (or the rod the steering cable attaches to) all the way inside the tilt tube.

The cable moves freely about an inch when I unscrew the smaller of nuts on the starboard side of tilt tube and turn wheel.  Also what I don't understand is that when I unscrew this nut, I can shake the smaller rod inside the cable housing going into the tilt tube up and down and around the tilt tube, just not in and out of the tube.  

As you can see there is no room to hammer the steering rod back IN the tube because the transom boxes are in the way.  

I have gotten the steering rod to spin freely, and was able to tap it OUT about a quarter inch.  What should I be trying to do here?  I don't understand the schematics and how the cable attaches to the rod inside the tilt tube, and I need to get them both out so I can properly clean and install a lube nut.  Help much appreciated!


http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 51&cat=651

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 41&cat=651

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 83&cat=651
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 17, 2014, 09:52:49 PM
Reply #1

seabob4

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2014, 09:52:49 PM »
The "inner" cable is broken, I've had this before on a customer's boat.  To get the rod out, you're gonna have to pound it out most likely, which will mean pulling the motor off the transom...


Corner of 520 and A1A...

February 17, 2014, 10:23:45 PM
Reply #2

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2014, 10:23:45 PM »
I purposely haven't applied much pressure on the wheel, I'm not sure how the inner cable could've broken, but I'm not counting it out.
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 17, 2014, 10:36:37 PM
Reply #3

seabob4

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2014, 10:36:37 PM »
Ct, if you look at a steering cable, you wonder how they could ever break...but they do... :(


Corner of 520 and A1A...

February 17, 2014, 10:45:01 PM
Reply #4

wingtime

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2014, 10:45:01 PM »
Was the boat sitting for a while hard over like that before you discovered it was stuck?  Or did it just happen suddenly?  I've had my steering cable get stuck like that once due to sitting...  I had to heat up the tilt tube and hammer on it to get it free.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

February 17, 2014, 10:55:36 PM
Reply #5

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2014, 10:55:36 PM »
Yeah it's been sitting unused since November.  I'd been pretty good about exercising the wheel every couple weeks but it had been awhile.
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 18, 2014, 07:07:40 AM
Reply #6

Capt. Bob

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2014, 07:07:40 AM »
Have you seen this? Resource forum next to the "Buyers Bible".

viewtopic.php?p=108393#p108393

Good luck.
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

February 18, 2014, 10:12:40 AM
Reply #7

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2014, 10:12:40 AM »
Capt Bob, that was helpful, but is more geared towards replacing a cable, not un-sticking it.  

I think my earlier post might have been misleading, the inner cable rod moves freely up and down and around the tilt tube, but not laterally (in and out of tube), if that makes any sense.  

I'm really convinced the cable is not broken, just stuck. Either way it needs to come out of the tilt tube regardless, and I should be able to remove the cable without taking the engine off because there is a rigging hole in the stern box perpendicular to the transom.

My question is, should I be trying to tap the rod out the port side of the tilt tube, or back in the tilt tube and all the way out?  It seems like heat might be necessary.
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 18, 2014, 10:29:02 AM
Reply #8

Capt. Bob

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2014, 10:29:02 AM »
Jim,
This might help.
viewtopic.php?p=104930#p104930

Another thought but not much info.
viewtopic.php?p=103113#p103113
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

February 18, 2014, 12:38:56 PM
Reply #9

Georgie

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2014, 12:38:56 PM »
Jim,

Quote
My question is, should I be trying to tap the rod out the port side of the tilt tube, or back in the tilt tube and all the way out? It seems like heat might be necessary.
You need to push/tap the stainless shaft protruding on the port side of the engine so that it slides back through to the starboard side.  It is currently FULLY extended as if you wanted to the boat hard to starboard which is why you feel so much play where the cable enters the steering tube on the starboard side.  cycles of heating and cooling with substantial amounts of penetrant lube will likely be necessary.

Quote
I have gotten the steering rod to spin freely,
If you've already spun the swivel terminal on the end of the stainless shaft more than 360 degrees, then Seabob may be right and you could have snapped the inner rod which is really an extension of the cable itself.   :oops:  but since you say you can't pull the cable itself back out the starboard side, then it may still be intact.

Quote
To get the rod out, you're gonna have to pound it out most likely, which will mean pulling the motor off the transom...
 X2 since you say you have insufficient room to hammer on the end due to transom boxes.  (a very common headache by the way).  :x  If you do end up hammering, keep the correct size bolt in the mounting hole at the end of the steering shaft so that it doesn't compress/deform as easily.  Minor mushrooming of the end can be corrected with a file or dremel tool once you've gotten the end of the shaft close to the steering tube.
Ryan

1979 246 CCC

1987 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman

February 18, 2014, 12:49:11 PM
Reply #10

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2014, 12:49:11 PM »
Thanks Georgie, very helpful.  I have not spun the rod more than a quarter turn or so.  Since I have so little space, I'm going to try

1. threading a long enough nut through the rod hole and hitting that, while applying pressure on both ends of the nut so I don't bend the rod.  

2. I'm also going to try using a 2 x 4 as a lever, and hitting on that I'm hoping I can sort of pry the rod back into the tube.  

I've heard about these pneumatic hammers and I'm wondering if I may have to use one of these to exert the right amount of force.  

Since the rod is fully extended outwards, I'm thinking it has very little contact with the tube and there can't be much room for it to rust.    There could be hardened grease blocking it however.   Hoping to get it free this weekend.  What a headache.  I wish I did it right the first time with Steersman nut and cleaning with gun brush.
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 18, 2014, 01:33:27 PM
Reply #11

futch13

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2014, 01:33:27 PM »
These are your friends


February 18, 2014, 04:50:00 PM
Reply #12

wingtime

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2014, 04:50:00 PM »
Heat it and beat it!.   :roll:   Thats what I had to do when mine got stuck.  Heated up the tilt tube with a propane torch and beat on the rod end with a dead blow hammer.  You can get the lead shot filled plastic coated ones at Harbor freight pretty cheap.  Don't hit it with a steel hammer you'll just mushroom the end of the rod.  A brass hammer might work too.  You can also protect the end of the rod with a hunk of 3/4" starboard.   Also spray the crap out of it with PB blaster and let it soak for a day or two.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

February 19, 2014, 10:12:34 AM
Reply #13

dburr

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2014, 10:12:34 AM »
All great advice Jimbo.. MAKE SURE you back the cable retaining nut on the starboard side COMPLETLY off the tilt tube.. When everything starts to move you do not want to transmit the beating up the cable to the helm in case you have a problem on that end.  Found that out the expensive way.. :oops:

If the bend into the tilt tube is not to hard you will be able to do a quick check to see if the cable is broken, with the retaining nut off, GENTLY rotate the helm, if you have any travel left on the cable you will see the cable jacket move away then back to the tilt tube mount as you move the helm if the cable is intact.  It will not move much, but it will move...

Remember too that heating the tilt tube up enough to melt the grease is the temp you are going for, not hot enough melt the seals...

A lead sinker is good to beat against as well, you will not lose any of the hammer shock as you will with a soft wood block (2x4). A chunk of oak/maple or other hardwood would work too, but lead is the winner in my book..
Dave

88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590

February 19, 2014, 10:14:41 AM
Reply #14

SaltH2OHokie

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2014, 10:14:41 AM »
Quote from: "wingtime"
Heat it and beat it!.   :roll:   Thats what I had to do when mine got stuck.  Heated up the tilt tube with a propane torch and beat on the rod end with a dead blow hammer.  You can get the lead shot filled plastic coated ones at Harbor freight pretty cheap.  Don't hit it with a steel hammer you'll just mushroom the end of the rod.  A brass hammer might work too.  You can also protect the end of the rod with a hunk of 3/4" starboard.   Also spray the crap out of it with PB blaster and let it soak for a day or two.


Or do what my buddy did 2 weeks ago when we fought his on a 150 Black Max:  Get irritated/impatient, start cutting things until you have pieces that come out of where you're trying to get them out, and the next day have to go purchase a steering cable, a helm and tilt tube for your motor.  Actually the helm purchase was optional, he was looking to upgrade.  The tilt tube and cable, on the other hand, suffered a terrible ending at the hands of a big torch, a big grinder and a realllllly big hammer; those were not optional purchases.  Took 2 hours to get that new tilt tube in, and that was with 2 good size men trying to man-handle the motor where it needed to be.  I'm assuming we were missing them, but we couldn't find the first suitable pick-point on that Black Max to be able to use his hoist to help us hold the motor.

I'd say I witnessed a lesson in how NOT to fix hung up steering on an outboard.
Ryan

1975 Aquasport 19-6, 1985 Merc 115 Inline.
1970 Aquasport 22-2, 1987(ish) Yamaha 115 V4.
Former owner of 1988 Aquasport 290 TM.

Currently on nothing but cell phone/air card.  Which severely limits internet time.

 


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