Bought a boat! 1990 200 Striper

[Aquamaniac]

Thanks to all...

CLM: good to know.....and reassuring. The boat's condition is really what pushed me to pull the trigger.

Bob: I sure hope Farley can shed some light on this motor. I can't begin to get things ordered and fixed if I can't even tell what the beast is (my BAD) At least the beast ran! (sigh) Pretty hard to seatrial with no tilt/trim. Not to mention getting trailer freed up to work on it!

Sometimes I wonder about me........

[Georgie]

Late to the party (been working late and outside rebuilding my dang engine again), but congrats, Tom! Figure she'll clean right up....and as much as you're overwhelmed right now, I'm guessing you'll learn to LOVE that ol' Merc as long as she's not already beyond salvation.  The simplicity of those '80's engines just can't be beat. Make that trailer safe to tow and get your azz on the water!!  

[fitz73222]

Fitz: Good observation...you have hit on what seems to be a can of worms!  

In fact I an now NOT sure of what this motor really is!!!!!!!!!!!

He said it was a 150. He says he replaced the thermostat and the impeller and says he told parts he thought it was a 91 150.Says the parts he got were identical to what he removed and went back in and functioned correctly.
HOWEVER........
when I plugged in the serial number from plate on the mount......it comes up a 200HP motor on Mercury site. Another parts site shows this serial to fall in 1984 for 150 .

So....how the %^&* do I determine WHAT this motor really is????????????????  

ARRRGGHHHH....so much for a deal????????

Please school this poor old man on old Mercury motors     Thanks!

Well she may have been pieced together which is somewhat common for older motors; not a big deal since most of the parts were the same from the 150-225 hp across the span of 2 decades. The key number to get is off of the welch plug (aluminum plug) about the size of a quarter with the powerhead serial # located on the block. Then we can determine if she is a 122 or 142 cu in. and we'll go from there.

[dburr]

Welcome aboard Tom!!!

Don't worry about the Trim and tilt, symbols system and easy to work on.. What are you symptoms? Up and down solenoids are on the starboard side of the engine, trim release screw is on the same side and is NYLON so BE CAREFUL if you decided to mess with it. nylon threads with an o-ring on the outer side that has a habit of holding the damn thing in place aiding in stripping the threads..

It will be an adventure, remember it's about the journey, not the destination...

[seabob4]

It will be an adventure, remember it's about the journey, not the destination...

Are we there yet?  

[dburr]

It will be an adventure, remember it's about the journey, not the destination...

Are we there yet?  

Bob we ain't six feet under so I am gonna guess,,,, no...  

[gran398]

Late to the party too, but...

Congrats on your new ride, and WELCOME to the Aquasport Sportsman's Society

[seabob4]

You and Carolyn back home Scotty?

[gran398]

Bob, thanks for asking. Thank goodness the power came on late today. Carolyn was over here surveying things. Her sis was with her, and according to her sis...

When Carolyn saw that line truck from Indiana it was like she was shot out of a cannon

Glad I was at work God Bless those Hoosier boys!

Sorry Tom for the quick derail...back on-topic

[seabob4]

Sorry Tom for the quick derail...back on-topic

Like that's never happened before!!!

Tom, you'll find, as you hang around here more often, that we are like family.  Some of us are the adults...and some of us are the kids!!!    

[gran398]

^^^^

Yep. All about family

[Aquamaniac]

Happy to be part of the family! Although kinda reminds me of that line " I wouldn't be a member of any club that would have me as a member". Sad to say, I have a way of raising lunacy to an art form.

Certainly excited about getting on with the project. Spent today cutting out the bow tow eye backing and reglassing everything. Built up inside the hull with several layers, then resin/mat encapsulated marine plywood , then more layers. Pretty happy with how it turned out, Will drill holes for the U bolt, install with some stainless fender washers  to help spread the load, then tow her home. Realized I had to fix this first late last night! Course the kicker was I have to take winch arm loose  to be able to drill holes.
Here's a couple pics.....first is the pocket left after cutting out the glass and rotten/split wood. U Bolt still in place. Fortunately the hull was not hurt . Second is the completed repair prior to drilling holes. Hope it is solid enough.

[Aquamaniac]

Farley: Thanks for the info...I will check on it (Monday) and let you know . Hopefully this motor can be sorted out. Sure would make it nice if I knew what it really was. I suspect it is a Johnny Cash motor......but hey ...if it runs......

dburr: Trim/tilt unit is separate inside transom in right corner.

[seabob4]

Good job on the bow block Tom...

[Aquamaniac]

Thanks, Bob......not entirely sure it will be a good a fix as the original wood was thick and beveled. I reinforced hull with several layers of wetted mat then tried to fill in the angle with chopped up mat, some wet mat encapsulated little wedges of the 3/4 marine ply...more layers, more thick goop, pressed wet mat encapsulated rectangular block of 3/4 marine ply into all that, then more layers of wetted mat. All wet layup. Went through a quart of resin and a yard of 50" mat. After the fact I wondered if I should have used some other layers of biaxial or such....but hope it will be strong enough.

Do have a question ..... what would you use in the bolt holes to seal them? Marine silicone caulk? Can't just squirt a bunch in the holes since need to push threaded bolt through and be able to thread nut onto it.  Guess I'd put bolt half way in, try to get some caulk around outer half threads, push almost all in, add more caulk on the bow surface under the plate, completely tighten, then clean up around plate. The stuff under plate I removed seemed to be a bit rubbery rather than hard adhesive.