Airmar B60 Transducer Help and Opinions

[Bergertime]

All,

I am considering purchasing a Airmar B60 through hull (requires hole to be drilled) transducer for my Garmin 740s.  I currently have the economical 50/200 dual frequency transom mount one that comes standard with most of Garmin's units which is working fine.  That said, I would like to improve target differentiation and detail if possible.  

The Airmar is about $200 and I'd like to know if anyone has used one of these and what type of sonar picture improvement I am likely to see, if any.  It's not cheap and drilling a 3 inch hole in the bottom of my boat would only make sense if I was going to see a marked improvement in returns at the head-unit.  Hope someone can help..

B

[seabob4]

Bruce,
While I can't relate to you the improved performance of the B60 tiltable element, I can say that I've installed a BUNCH of them for my customers.  Other than 1 that was NFG out of the box (unfortunately, you can't tell if they work until you dunk the boat), I have not heard of 1 complaint.  

Obviously, I have no problem putting a 3" hole in the bottom of a boat.  You want to see something scary?  Try a B260!!  

[Double Trouble]

I have the B60 on my boat I think it is a good performer but you must realize it will be only as good as your recorder.I have mine on the boat since 2008 and all is well except I cant get water temp. anymore the sensor went out the end of last season. I spoke to Airmar and was told it is not repairable and usually only lasts about 5 years. I will probably will install a seperate unit as I still have the bracket hanging on the transum from the old transducer. I would not hesitate to get another one when it goes.

[Bergertime]

Thanks guys... I think I may pull the trigger. I'll try to take some b/f and after pics of the same structure to see if I can capture the difference.  At minimum I can get rid of the unit I have on my transom and another old mount of unknown origin that the PO had not removed.  Taking all that stuff off might give me a couple more MPH!  
B

[Bergertime]

Transducer on the way..  Do any of you guys that have one of these or similar product have any input on mounting location on my 245 Osprey?  Guidance has been on the starboard side back.  Like many of you I have a through-hull raw water pickup in this area which would influence ducer location.  Hoping for some suggestions / actual feedback.

Bob- Any suggestions since you know the hulls and have put many of these in.

Please Advise,

B

[seabob4]

Bruce, obviously the preferred location would be on the port side of the keel...but that would be like impossible given the access to the Osprey's bilge.  Given that, if I was installing the ducer for a customer, I would locate it outboard of the livewell pickup, about 6" fwd.  Constant deadrise of the hull in that location, any turbulence caused by the pickup would/should occur aft of it while on plane.  

Oft times on older boats, the ideal position for mounting a transducer like the B60 is just not physically possible.  Sort of like cockpit LED lighting and 15" displays, a lot of this chit wasn't even invented when your boat was built...

[Bergertime]

Finally got my B60 in after 2 failed attempts with orders being cancelled due to the item not being in stock.  It proved more difficult to find the 6 pin version that links to my Garmin 740 as Garmin has now gone to 8 pin connections but my fine friends at IMarine had one and delivered it quickly post the ice storms in SC.  

Sheesh... I know the 2 3/8 hole you have to cut aint small to put it in but I was surprised how beefy it is... appears very well made.  

Bob- I scoped the location that you suggested and I think it's a good choice.  Not only for performance but puts it well inside my trailer bunks and it will be easier to access and install there.



Now for the install if I can scrape the free time together!

B

[seabob4]

Bruce, imagine installing the B60's big brother, the B260.  Here's one next to my beer can for size reference...

[futch13]

It's just fiberglass, drill away!!!!  Mistakes are easily taken care of      

[seabob4]

It's just fiberglass, drill away!!!!  Mistakes are easily taken care of      

Agree with Loye here.  F up an aluminum T-top frame, well, ya better know how to weld.  Glass?  Anything can be fixed!!  

[Bergertime]

Bob - That is one big fat ducer..  What did it weigh...  10 lbs?

I know glass can be fixed it's just somehow counter intuitive to drill big holes in a surface you try to protect and care for.  Maybe I’m still showing my newbie threads there but the thought is still unsettling.   As a side.. went to Home Depot this evening to buy the needed supplies: 5200, proper hole saw blade etc..  I want to take her out on Sunday with the kids if the weather permits so I may wait and do it during the week or next weekend.  I have everything I need for surgery and transplant, no excuses now!

Hope you all have a great weekend!

B

[futch13]

I keep a sawzall on the counter at the shop.  When a customer comes in to have something installed on their boat, I lay a hand on it and say "No problem, we can do that"...  especially fun when talking to a new boat owner            

[Bergertime]

All Done!

After some careful consideration I went for it and mounted the unit on the port side.  I removed the hatch frame and door (oil tank and raw pump access) which gave me enough room to get down to the hull with one arm with a mounting area that was clear and easy to get to.  From there it was simple to drill my pilot hole and cut the 2 3/8 hole from underneath.  The unit sits about midway up on the deadrise and approx. 1 foot up from the transom.  With the eurotransom and the distance it creates from the motor I feel it's far enough away to negate any concerns about prop wash on the upswing.  Side note,  with the location of the raw water pickup on the starboard side I was not happy with any of the location options forward of the unit as I felt that it presented more risk related to clean water at 30mph+ or in snotty seas.

Ran the wire through my chase tube (thanks to some installed rope pulls) and it was done.  Took me about three hours start to finnish with my son helping, but I had to ask my neighbor to assist with the final tightening as that cannot be done with one arm/hand alone since the unit wants to spin when the nut is twisted.  He held onto the top of the unit from the small hatch and I wiggled my way down from the other side/hatch (after removing one battery) and tightened with the wrench.  That was interesting, good thing I am not claustrophobic!!!!

For those of you considering.. I followed the BOE install method (on youtube) which was spot on and made the cleanup outside a snap.   There was very little 5200 left after the tape was removed that required cleaning up.  The only thing I really did differently was that after the unit was cut out after the initial taping I marked the end on the tape with an arrow showing proper keel alignment.  

PS- The white area around the unit is actually a clean hull from the prep, not the 5200..  just saying  






Tight Lines…

B

[futch13]

Good job   Very clean

[seabob4]

Bruce, that had to be a real treat locating it on the port side...well done!!