Rebuild 200 Osprey

[gran398]

Great post Carl.

The weight adds up quickly. Factory dry hull weight on ours was around 1900. When the rebuild was 90% complete she weighed 2380, no T top.

Aqua, you may want to hang on to the vertical portions of the liner just in case you have a change in heart. It can always (or portions thereof) be glued/glassed back in to provide a finished surface.

[Callyb]

I'm not 100%, but I'm almost certain the Arjay is poly based. You could do an epoxy/cabosil mix or if you want get crazy an epoxy/cabosil/milled fiber mix for a bedding compound. The milled fibers add significant strength to the mixture, but it is not necessary.

[RickK]

I would like to throw this out there too... Keep in mind that while Rick's stringers are strong for sure, (no disrespect Rick) 1/4" thick stringers are about twice what you need if using epoxy and biracial. The original stringers should have been somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/8" or so.

Hey, none taken  
My first two layers of 1708 on the stringers were poly, then I got straightened out on a couple other sites (and by a member here) and that's when I went with 2 layers of cloth with epoxy.  I probably would have gone with 2 layers of 1708 with one 1808 in the middle had I started off in the right direction, which would have been thinner.  As it ended up I am a little thicker tnah necessary but the epoxy tied everything together.

[Aquasport Commodore]

I did a search and could not find my answer so I thought, "Hey I'm in the Aquasport god's territory" why not ask here. So here it is, is the 200 Osprey hull (No cap) the same as the 19-6? If so would the old caps fit this boat?

[Capt. Bob]

Same specs and weight.
Look similar.
First time someone (for me) asked about cap exchange.

PS.... you'll find the specs for your hull and a 19-6 in the Photo Gallery.
Could have been a marketing move to rename the 19-6 a 200.
Not unusual for Aqua at all.

[gran398]

CB you are correct, they are  the same hull.

Should be the same stringer layout as well.

Would wager the hull caps are interchangeable.

Major difference is the gunnel height/increased freeboard of the 200, due to the taller liner.

[Callyb]

Aqua, if I am understanding this correctly you want to put an older style cap on your boat? If so, I would recommend just building one. You are going to tear all the way into this boat anyway and the cap is not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things.

If I got it right, I say go for it.    

I like the look and lines of the older caps anyway.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Aqua, if I am understanding this correctly you want to put an older style cap on your boat? If so, I would recommend just building one. You are going to tear all the way into this boat anyway and the cap is not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things.

If I got it right, I say go for it.    

I like the look and lines of the older caps anyway.

You are spot on. That is my plan, newer hull in the classic look. I love that flat cap. Also imho it is a more useful cap than the taller one. I spoke with a guy in St Pete who stated he had a mold already of the cap that I want to use and it fits this hull with the flat already built in for the back. As for the area under the flat cap, I plan on making the sides tackle holders and the middle section I dont know yet, but it must have access for the bolts, and rigging for the motor so I will plan on that later. I saw several tackle stations at Marine Surplus what will fit the bill and the color I want. I am going to use a flat face center console and a Yetti cooler for the seat. Under deck storage.

Also while I'm thinking of it, can batteries be mounted under the deck with an access hatch or is that an issue? Seems like they would be out of the way and you can center them in the boat and still have your center console space available, and just have the bank charger mounted in the console.

[gran398]

That would be an issue.

If you must....keep the batts high as possible on a ledge above the bilge. But not advised.

Scenario:

Boat is in the water, heavy storm. Lot of water quickly.

 Throw in  leaves, pine straw etc. blocking the flow off the deck... she can't self-bail through the transom scuppers as normal.

The cockpit floods, water begins to drain to the bilge.  Bilge fills, kicks on the auto float switch.

This is the pertinent part. Something gets hung under the float switch...it stays up.The pump keeps running, even though the rain may have stopped. Pump runs and runs...batts die.

Batts are dead...here comes the next thunderstorm thirty minutes later.

 Boat sinks.

Have seen it happen.

Higher the batts, greater the survival. Tough to hook up shore power when they're underwater beneath the deck.


Re. the cap...Great to  have a handle on one from a mold.  if reasonable, will be a lot less time and money than a one-off fab.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Thanks, I never looked at it from that point of view. Makes a lot of good points, so back to the console.....lol

[gran398]

Thanks, I never looked at it from that point of view. Makes a lot of good points, so back to the console.....lol

Glad you've joined, looking forward to the build

[RickK]

Couple questions:
Where is the "Flat" area you're referring to?  Are you talking aout the 3-4ft of flat liner in the aft of the boat on the port and starboard sides just forward of the transom?  If so, remember that the hull sides angle inward from the top toward the chine and you may start out with enoigh room to put in tackle drawers but quickly you'll lose the depth to use them.  Here is a pic of the rod storage in my 170 liner - notice the 3-4" available near the top of the cap and the 2" about a foot down toward the sole.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8818&title=cimg1073&cat=646

Are you closing in the transom?  You mentioned the transom portion of the cap mold this person has and led me to believe there would be access behind it.  On a normal older cap they are not closed in.

[Capt. Bob]

This is the pertinent part. Something gets hung under the float switch...it stays up.The pump keeps running, even though the rain may have stopped. Pump runs and runs...batts die.

Maybe I'm still hung over but.....
What if the batteries were mounted on top of the T-Top(for argument sake, let's pretend he installs one with his rebuild)........
Would they not still be just as dead?

Batts are dead...here comes the next thunderstorm thirty minutes later.
Boat sinks.
Have seen it happen.
Higher the batts, greater the survival. Tough to hook up shore power when they're underwater beneath the deck.

Even under the console can be dicey. We just had a member go through this same situation.
viewtopic.php?p=115224#p115224

I'd be more concerned in keeping your bilge dry, wire your pump properly, check its function regularly and use a different style auto switch.
Then again, you could just leave it on a trailer and get another cup of coffee while you're pumping it out.

Lack of space may be your biggest concern for a below deck mount. Mine are mounted below deck but I have a different style hull.

Good luck.

[gran398]

Yes Bob that is correct. They would be just as dead, regardless of where they are.

Were your batteries factory-rigged below deck?

[Aquasport Commodore]

The flat area was the transom cap I was talking about not an area in the floor. I was going to make a space behind the fuel tank (Where most people put in a freshwater holding tank) and place the batteries there with weep hole scuppers to keep water out for for water to flow out should any get in there. Vent hole out via console. and rubber gasket style like Rick is looking into with screen rubber for a type of o-ring. I was thinking lower for better center of gravity and balance of the boat. The fuel tank will be moved forward so this would assist with off setting that movement along with a combo leaning post, livewell and possible built into as well tackle station (I just love those so you don't have to take a tackle box on and off, sliding around the deck, etc) all built in as one. This will also be a trailer queen and not sit in the water for days (maybe 2 at the most)