How difficult is it to change out Fuse block ???

[puff tentacle]

I am not great with electronics and due to a submerged helm, I was told by a mobile marine mechanic that the fuse block and the battery switch and cable need to be replaced. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can tackle or should I hire this mechanic.  The boat has the old glass fuses.  Thanks for any and all input

[seabob4]

I am not great with electronics and due to a submerged helm, I was told by a mobile marine mechanic that the fuse block and the battery switch and cable need to be replaced. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can tackle or should I hire this mechanic.  The boat has the old glass fuses.  Thanks for any and all input

No, you can do it yourself.  But being as the wiring in the helm was submerged, you should probably consider a re-wire.  The sea water (or fresh, if it was submerged in a lake or fresh water river) has wicked it's way into the wiring, which will cause you headaches in a short period of time...

[puff tentacle]

Let me clarify when I say the helm was submerged, the seawater came into the center console compartment and almost covered the battery and may have partially covered the fuse panel.

[seabob4]

Puff, if seawater entered the console to that level, then it also filled your rigging tube/trough, whichever you have.  What splices may have been made in there, the condition of the wiring insulation...

I'm not trying to scare you, I'm just saying that there is a great (not good) possibility that water has migrated into the insulation and the wiring.  I'm not sure if you are aware (and I'm not trying to brag), but my business is re-wiring and rigging boats...I have seen the effects of submersion too many times...

[Georgie]

SB - well put.

Puff - Submergence of any electrical system is usually a kiss of death.  Even if the wiring is generally well done and sealed, you usually still have a ticking time bomb if you don't replace it.  Just boils down to $$ vs. need.  I'm a poor-azz cheapskate and will only fix as problems develop, but at the same time not knowing WHEN they'll happen absolutely is my biggest frustration. What's your price for peace of mind??

[futch13]

I am not great with electronics and due to a submerged helm, I was told by a mobile marine mechanic that the fuse block and the battery switch and cable need to be replaced. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can tackle or should I hire this mechanic.  The boat has the old glass fuses.  Thanks for any and all input

No, you can do it yourself.  But being as the wiring in the helm was submerged, you should probably consider a re-wire.  The sea water (or fresh, if it was submerged in a lake or fresh water river) has wicked it's way into the wiring, which will cause you headaches in a short period of time...

X eleventybillion  

Look back through some of Bob's post, that is what a rewire should look like when it's done.  If you think about hiring someone to do it, see if they have pics of some of their previous rewires, don't accept less.  I've seen some "professional" rewires that looked like a 9 yo did them.  If they are done right, then you will be able to find system wires easily if you ever experience problems down the road.

[puff tentacle]

I don't mind spending the money but can you tell me specifically what I should do, and how many hours of labor should it take , just so I know whether I am getting ripped off or not. If you can include what parts I should purchase that would be helpful. I would like to decide whether its cost effective to hire someone or DIY(with a friends help)  Thanks Guys

[gran398]

I don't mind spending the money but can you tell me specifically what I should do, and how many hours of labor should it take , just so I know whether I am getting ripped off or not. If you can include what parts I should purchase that would be helpful. I would like to decide whether its cost effective to hire someone or DIY(with a friends help)  Thanks Guys

In general, you get what you pay for. Small business has to be competitive, and they also have to pay the bills.

Any biz has rip-off artists; the idea is to do your due diligence and check around.

Agree with the boys...you need a re-wire.

Here is a list of boat shops in Stamford. You could take a day and ride around, check them out. Avoid the ones that are jammed packed with crap, filthy dirty, disorganized, etc. Ideally, you would want to find a good shop, reasonably priced, and respectfully determine if any of their expert riggers moonlight or do stuff on the side, etc.

You COULD do it yourself...but, as the old adage goes, "Can't beat a man at his own game." Plus, any issues...he'll troubleshoot and make it right.

Good luck, here's the link

http://360boating.com/statelist.cfm?state=CT

Keep us posted

[Capt. Bob]

How about a few pics Puff.

Not to rain on the parade but let me ask.....

Any of that water get into the tank coffin through the pie plate(s)?

Also, if you don't mind, how did the water get in?

[seabob4]

Bob raises a good point, not so much how the water got in, but about the fuel tank/compartment area.  We would have to assume that since the batt was just about covered, that put about 10" of water in the entire boat...

[puff tentacle]

It was a night of heavy rain and wind in early November with my guess of a bad float/wire on bilge.  Not really sure how though, she sits low in the stern due to the engine and maybe with wind and water in the stern she sunk lower until water probably came over the sides of the boat and she swamped back there.  Pretty crappy feeling seeing her like that when I got to the dock. I was so worried that she was going to completely sink that when I got there from work ,in a suit no less, I jumped in and we put  lines on the engine and lifted the stern  a bit, until we got the sides above the water line, we then were able throw a pump in the stern area until the water pumped out.  The automatic bilge never kicked on, but when all the deck water was pumped out, I turned the bilge on from the toggle switch on my dash, and it turned on and pumped water out. The gas tank seems ok, it took alot to get my engine to turn over but after about an hour of spraying into the carbs and plugs, she kicked over and stayed on.  I ran for awhile then took her out and had her at 4000 to 4500 RPM's for awhile and she seems ok.  I checked the water separator filter and it seems fine /no water.  At least in that aspect I think I got Lucky as far as the engine goes(actually lucky all around I guess) because the water was halfway up the cowl of my 90Hp Johnson.   Anyway, after all this the battery still works and my motor still trims up/down.   I am not sure if Nav lights work, I have to check. It was pretty horrible getting that call from the marina that my boat was partially sunk.  I will take pics tomorrow and post.  Thanks for the concern.

[seabob4]

Puff, that truly is a "sinking" feeling...sorry bud, the word just seemed to fit.  Now, in all honesty, if it were my boat, she'd be getting a re-wire.  Not solely based on the submerrsion, but also combined with the fact that your boat's wiring is going on 30 years old.  I'm sure a healthy amount of corrosion was already present, now it's just going to get worse.

That being said, if you choose just to replace the fuse block and re-terminate the leads, I recommend the Blue Seas 6-gang fuse block w/ground bus bar...http://www.genuinedealz.com/blue-sea-sy ... gative-bus  ATO blade fuses are far more durable than glass fuses, the ends don't get corroded and break off in the fuse holders like glass ones do.  Use heat shrink ring terminals (also from genuinedealz), you'll need a heat gun (get that at Harbor Freight) to shrink them.

I wouldn't recommend mounting the block way up high as it makes changing fuses, inspection, and maintenance a PITA.  The key is to keep water out of the boat!!  I assume you will be installing a new float switch, if you need instructions on how to wire it in to your system, we can provide those as well...

[puff tentacle]

Thanks for your advice, your the second person that suggested Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block.  I will check out that website. Do you think I should replace the battery switch also, that was not submerged, but I was told to replace it.


BTW...did you have to go there,  "sinking" feeling    LoL :P

[seabob4]

Thanks for your advice, your the second person that suggested Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block.  I will check out that website. Do you think I should replace the battery switch also, that was not submerged, but I was told to replace it.


BTW...did you have to go there,  "sinking" feeling    LoL :P

The reason you would consider changing out the batt switch would be for the same reasons you would want to re-wire...water wicking it's way up the battery cables and thus finding the switch.  Assuming you have an old Perko switch, if the terminals still look like good copper (not TOO much green), then don't bother.  BTW, who is telling you to do these things, and what is his reasoning?  Did he explain why he thought you should swap out the batt switch?

And no, no sinking feelings!  Left the garboard drain plug out once...but the boat was beached, so no harm, no foul.  Never done it since...

[puff tentacle]

I keep having trouble attaching photos to my posts, I was able to upload some photos of my electrical wiring and battery in the photo gallery.  Give it a look