Merc 700...Calling Farley, Dave, Ryan...

[dburr]

If there are taped holes for a wheel puller on the flywheel you can make a jig with a long handle out of stock on hand, and catch as many of the holes as you can and use that as a brace.  Lots of penetrant on the nut, then localized heat, shield the flywheel with foil if you can, you just want to cook the nut.  When it is time to apply torque if the nut doesn't break free by hand then you gotta figure out how to brace it off because your going to need to tap the wrench straight down with a hammer while you have it loaded up.  Because my third hand is broken, I have tied the brace off to the shop wall and started pulling on the breaker bar. When I think I am pulling hard enough I hit the bar right over the socket with a 6 oz ball peen hammer. I don't want to shock the nut in the direction of the torque, that can be dangerous, I want to shock it in line with the shaft. The heat is the trick, not to hot or the shaft gets it and there go the shaft seals..
If you don't have puller holes then a home made strap wrench around the flywheel works well too.  

Farley undoubtedly has a much more elegant solution...

[seabob4]

Actually good idea Dave.  The flywheel has 3 tapped holes, so fabbing a jig to secure the wheel shouldn't be that big of a deal.  Obviously those 3 holes are what the balancer puller are going to be using...

[fitz73222]

Bob,
Double check and see if the flywheel is threaded around the nut. It's an 1 1/2-17 thread. I think this was on later model engines but double check. If it has the the threads I have the factory puller. As far as the nut; 1/2 inch drive air impact is the only way to go. You dont even need to hold the flywheel unless it's really stuck. It will buzz right off. If the flywheel needs to be pulled with a standard puller for a stuck flywheel this method has never failed. Bolt up the puller, tighten down on the draw bolt tight and walk away. Every hour or so crank down some more. Let it sit. My record is 6 days to get one to pop. Just keep tightening a couple of times a day until it pops. More damage is done beating and heating than WAITING! You can tap on the draw bolt occasionally with hammer if you must but your not driving 16 penny nail! You need a ring gear holder to grab the flywheel or some way to keep it from turning as you tighten the draw bolt.

[seabob4]

Bob,
Double check and see if the flywheel is threaded around the nut. It's an 1 1/2-17 thread. I think this was on later model engines but double check. If it has the the threads I have the factory puller. As far as the nut; 1/2 inch drive air impact is the only way to go. You dont even need to hold the flywheel unless it's really stuck. It will buzz right off. If the flywheel needs to be pulled with a standard puller for a stuck flywheel this method has never failed. Bolt up the puller, tighten down on the draw bolt tight and walk away. Every hour or so crank down some more. Let it sit. My record is 6 days to get one to pop. Just keep tightening a couple of times a day until it pops. More damage is done beating and heating than WAITING! You can tap on the draw bolt occasionally with hammer if you must but your not driving 16 penny nail! You need a ring gear holder to grab the flywheel or some way to keep it from turning as you tighten the draw bolt.

That was too easy Farley!!  Got out the trusty HF 1/2" electric impact...piece of cake!  I'm betting the flywheel will come off with a minimum of effort using the balancer puller...and of course some PB to help it along!

[dburr]

Elegant!!!

[seabob4]

For some dumba$$ reason, didn't dawn on me just to put the impact on it and see what would happen...

Perhaps I SHOULD have gone on the special bus...

[seabob4]

S/N paydirt, Farley!! Last night, looking at the surface corrosion on the PH, I though I'd take a little 220 grit to her to get some of it off.  Well, lo and behold, on top of the crankcase...numbers start appearing!!



S/N appears to be 1417526, which, according to the Merc S/N guide you linked, puts her smack dab in the middle of the 700AEL (I'm guessing the L is "long shaft") run in 1961...the year after I was born.  


Helps to have a beautiful evening, a few beers in you, some winning football results...and, as Dave said, the "thinking chair" over in the corner!!  

[fitz73222]

Thata boy...
I knew that PH serial number was somewhere; you're gonna need it!!!! Damn, you and I are the same age...

[seabob4]

Thata boy...
I knew that PH serial number was somewhere; you're gonna need it!!!! Damn, you and I are the same age...

Scary, ain't it...

[futch13]

DAMN Ya'll are OLD, Got me by at least a year    

[seabob4]

Took pretty much her whole front end off today...



I'm seriously considering pulling the PH and re-doing everything external.  That surface corrosion you see (you can see where I sanded) is just bugging me, it's on the carbs, the head...and the motor looks so good when I take that chit off.  Plus the midsection needs to be cleaned and prettied up...why not, right?

Farley, here are those water lines I was telling you about...



That one hose you see there not connected broke off from the T fitting in the middle...

[fitz73222]

Took pretty much her whole front end off today...



I'm seriously considering pulling the PH and re-doing everything external.  That surface corrosion you see (you can see where I sanded) is just bugging me, it's on the carbs, the head...and the motor looks so good when I take that chit off.  Plus the midsection needs to be cleaned and prettied up...why not, right?

Farley, here are those water lines I was telling you about...



That one hose you see there not connected broke off from the T fitting in the middle...

OK Bob,
Not water lines but what appears to be crankcase bleed lines between block regions.Probably between the internal reed cages on the crankshaft. This was a different design than external reeds on OMC's and others. The plates next to this area are the transfer ports that help scavenge the fuel from the intake and crankcase and deflect the fuel charge into the cylinders. If you remove one of those plates (go ahead) you will see a angled deflector on the plate and the cylinder, piston and rings; just roll the engine over until you can see the piston . This is the path the fuel takes from the carb (s) to the cylinder.  The water jacket cover I referred to on John's forum is the plate that surrounds the spark plugs and is water jacket cover only. This engine has no cylinder head and has blind bores from the inside encapsuled by an area for the water pass over to cool the block. Take it apart if you want, we can get all the gaskets so don't sweat it grasshopper!

[seabob4]

I see, said the blind man...

Very interesting Farley.  I was definitely wondering about fuel delivery...I've got fuel going into the block here, how the hell does it get up to the plugs?  That answers that!

I'll be taking her apart some more, I'd really like to get the whole motor cleaned up.  I also need to drop by a marina and check on Alpha 1 trim cylinders...think that would work for power TNT if they are the right length.  Just a different, and probably cheaper way, of doing it...

[fitz73222]

I'm thinking that the alpha trim cylinders are way too long for this app unless you can extend the lower mounting points of the exisiting shock mounts for the additonal lenght of the rams. Plus we see warnings of having to update to post '67 swivel/yoke for the ram mounts. Remember that in '61 that power trim wasn't invented yet! I'm pretty sure any older Mercruiser pump will work with new fabricated hydraulic lines. You have them cranked up over on Johns forum about power trim retros on early 60's Mercs. If anyone can figure this out it's you! I get to play on two forums for the same project... How cool is that! Anything you need is yours if I have it..

[seabob4]

The way I look at it Farley, is the Alpha rams may be too long, as one has to consider the trailer mode aspect...but that's basically the "tilt" part of TNT.  A hyd shop can cut down cylinders, and I do have an old Mercrusier TNT pump that works fine.  

We'll see about swapping out the swivel bracket.  Like I said, I may just take the whole shooting match apart, so it would be an easy swap.

Thanks for the offer on the parts.  Now I'm gonna PM Aaron, as I believe he has an old Alpha drive laying around...