Rhojo's '88 Johnson 70's J707TLCCA, updated... reed fix

[seabob4]

Futch, you in our neck of the weeds?  Bucs actually looked pretty damn good today...

[futch13]

Futch, you in our neck of the weeds?  Bucs actually looked pretty damn good today...

Yes, over in Lakeland/Mulberry  Was actually able to sit thru a whole game this year  :)

[gran398]

Futch, you in our neck of the weeds?  Bucs actually looked pretty damn good today...

Yes, over in Lakeland/Mulberry  Was actually able to sit thru a whole game this year  :)

Futch, glad you're here.

You mentioned hijacking. This thread is like most.  Topic...then small chit-chat among ourselves...then back on topic.

All good. Great input on your end, particularly regarding the casting.

Jon, pulling for you and watching with interest

[seabob4]

Mulberry...home of Comcar...

[Georgie]

Jon,

I'm no good with the loopers, but it looks like only the head of that bolt is broken off?  If so, can't you remove all the other head bolts and any wires, coils, or other obstructions, then tap the cylinderhead from the sides to break the gasket seal by allowing the head to pivot on the one broken bolt?  If so, and if you're careful with penetrant and heat, you can probably get the head off and still have plenty of exposed shank left to remove what's left of the bad bolt.  Would only cost you the price of a single replacement head bolt.  

Had to do that very same thing on the crossflow I rebuilt for my father.  This would save you the ENORMOUS headache of drilling and tapping/helicoil/oversizing, welding on a nut as a new screwhead etc.  Just a thought.

[fitz73222]

Jon,

I'm no good with the loopers, but it looks like only the head of that bolt is broken off?  If so, can't you remove all the other head bolts and any wires, coils, or other obstructions, then tap the cylinderhead from the sides to break the gasket seal by allowing the head to pivot on the one broken bolt?  If so, and if you're careful with penetrant and heat, you can probably get the head off and still have plenty of exposed shank left to remove what's left of the bad bolt.  Would only cost you the price of a single replacement head bolt.  

Had to do that very same thing on the crossflow I rebuilt for my father.  This would save you the ENORMOUS headache of drilling and tapping/helicoil/oversizing, welding on a nut as a new screwhead etc.  Just a thought.

The goal is to get the head off to see if this thing is toast or not. Take the rest of the headbolts out and see-saw the head off around the remaining stud. You may need to heat up the head around the stud to get the salt to pop loose on the shoulder. The stud will come out with Mapp gas and a pair of vice grips.

[Rhojo]

Jon,

I'm no good with the loopers, but it looks like only the head of that bolt is broken off?  If so, can't you remove all the other head bolts and any wires, coils, or other obstructions, then tap the cylinderhead from the sides to break the gasket seal by allowing the head to pivot on the one broken bolt?  If so, and if you're careful with penetrant and heat, you can probably get the head off and still have plenty of exposed shank left to remove what's left of the bad bolt.  Would only cost you the price of a single replacement head bolt.  

Had to do that very same thing on the crossflow I rebuilt for my father.  This would save you the ENORMOUS headache of drilling and tapping/helicoil/oversizing, welding on a nut as a new screwhead etc.  Just a thought.

The goal is to get the head off to see if this thing is toast or not. Take the rest of the headbolts out and see-saw the head off around the remaining stud. You may need to heat up the head around the stud to get the salt to pop loose on the shoulder. The stud will come out with Mapp gas and a pair of vice grips.

Let me get this head off as soon as I can. Not sure I can do much on it during the week but we'll see.

I remembered overnight that I do have a spare powerhead, it is seized and does have some missing parts such as the carbs but I know the head was on it and maybe the intake is there as well. I think it is. If I need a reed cage I may have it. I'll have to check that powerhead out a bit closer. I'm not really trying to save money on misc. parts yet but it may help me out.

Thanks for the input fellas and keep your fingers crossed for me! I'll keep updating... :eye:

[dburr]

welding on a nut as a new screwhead etc.  Just a thought.

Saw that done once on one of those car building TV shows.  The guy MIGed a nut on a busted stud on a transmission then broke it off 3 times, the 4 time the stud came out.  

 I thought that was a GREAT idea..

Now I am wondering, most likely over thinking it..  If the nut is MIG/TIG /Sticked on is there a chance that at the same time you are spot welding (as the stud grounds to the block where the welding ground is) the offensive stud to the block?  With a steel stud and aluminum block I think it'd be a non issue but how 'bout steel in steel?

I'd braze the nut on in an eyeblink, all that concentrated heat and no arc to worry about..

Am I overthinking it?

[Rhojo]

Saw that done once on one of those car building TV shows.  The guy MIGed a nut on a busted stud on a transmission then broke it off 3 times, the 4 time the stud came out.

I think I saw the same show!  :afro: It was on the Gas Monkey show...

I hope it doesn't come to that, I'm no welder!

[dburr]

You got it Jon!  I just couldn't remember  it was a slow day at work..

[fitz73222]

No need to get nutty about this. The stud is broken off flush with the block so it would be a challenge to get the stud clean enough for any weld to stick to it anyway, plus you would wind up damaging the cylinder head bolt surface trying to grind on it. Its stuck on the shoulder like 99% of them are from water passage salt migrating into the shoulder. Play the metallurgy game, aluminum expands at 3X the rate of steel so just take a Mapp gas torch and heat up the aluminum around the bolt and it will expand away from the bolt and the salt will start to pop out of the shoulder area as you rotate, tap, wiggle the head off. Nice of someone to leave that mess for you. Looks like its been broke for a while as evidenced by the rust on the bolt end. This is standard jackleg mechanic work trying to wrench apart without patience or knowledge of what they're doing and leaving the customer with the problem. I learned a long time ago that if you can't break the bolt loose with one hand, its stuck. Put the wrench on it and bang with your palm. Same goes for water pump bolts with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. The extra 5-10 minutes of adding a little heat can save hours of drilling and tapping. I grew up and still live with saltwater engines and always approach disassembly assuming all the bolts are stuck. I'm sure Futch can attest.

[futch13]

100% Farley.  Also a 1/4 drive impact worked slowly both ways speeds the process up greatly.

If anyone is in the market for battery powered tools, ck out Milwaukee's 12v line.  I have converted all my snap-on, bosch, Mac tools over to them.  They are light, strong, and the batteries last for ever.  Their impact is the one I'm talking about. It has 2 different torque settings

[fitz73222]

Bump... Jon, did you get the cylinder head off?

[Rhojo]

I broke another head bolt so the head is not off yet. I'm dead in the water until I get these out.

bleh    

[Georgie]

    :evil:

Sorry Jon....  Those bolts are supposed to be pretty dang tough!  Did the heads pop off the second one the same way as the first one?