246 rebuild live from Delmarva!

[4shore]

Well i think i will stick with the wood core on this one and forgo the mold. As far as the hard edges go i will be laying a filet into the corners where the stiffeners are to help that transition.

Filling the weave: can i just use cabosil thickened resin and squeegie it onto the surface once the lamination is getting tacky? Not so much a peanut butter consistency maybe closer to syrup on the horizontal surfaces.

[dburr]

Well i think i will stick with the wood core on this one and forgo the mold. As far as the hard edges go i will be laying a filet into the corners where the stiffeners are to help that transition.

Filling the weave: can i just use cabosil thickened resin and squeegie it onto the surface once the lamination is getting tacky? Not so much a peanut butter consistency maybe closer to syrup on the horizontal surfaces.

Yes.. The idea is that once the glass is down and beginning to cure an unthickened layer is rolled and tipped on. You do not want to roll out on glass that can pull up, that is why you wait.  Once the first fill layer goes on and gets to the green stage, you can roll and tip more on, either thickened or not, until you have the desired weave coverage you want.  The amount of thickening agent you use depends on how greedy you want to be with the buildup, again the idea is to thicken up the resin to the point that it will stay where you put it..

Good luck

[RickK]

Guys, I hope you're not waiting for me to settle anything.  Here's my $.02
I see that due to the lack of info for the final finish of the boxes from the member doing the work we are all a little loose in where we are going with advise - seems Dave is (I think) thinking they will be wooden boxes that you can see the wood through?  If so then his approach follows those steps for this.
Carl is thinking (I think) that it will be gelcoated and the wood will never be seen. If so, his approach follows those steps.
Wish I knew myself.
No big deal though - we're all in the same swim lane and have the same goal in mind - helping the member.  No need to even bring up THT.
I too don't have but a few years of fiberglass experience but I have a whole lot of mental experience to figure out little things like this and that is how I handle my rebuild.  If I don't know, I ask and also go to Google and Youtube.  
Nice thing about our site is that we have a lot of different members to ask advise from - from pros all the way down to people like me  

Back to the regularly scheduled program.

[4shore]

My train of thought is to glass it all up add urethane foam to the interior, glass over that and then paint the whole thing. I have zero experience with gel coat and all I've ever heard is how  temperamental it is.

Thoughts?

[gran398]

My train of thought is to glass it all up add urethane foam to the interior, glass over that and then paint the whole thing. I have zero experience with gel coat and all I've ever heard is how  temperamental it is.

Thoughts?

It's just like paint, except you mix it, and it sets up. For your application...mix it in a paint tray, and roll it on with a 3 inch roller. Just like the builders roll a bilge. You're looking serviceability/durability....paint can't match gelcoat in that regard.

Want to pretty it up? Fair it down with an orbital, roll it again....wet sand, compound, buff, and wax.

Gel doesn't have to be sprayed with a gun to get the job done.

[Callyb]

Shore, gel coat is just resin with additives...or at least that is the way to think about it. I would recommend (since you used vinylester) finish it with gel.

Someone on the forum nailed it down, paint means the work is prior to the finish. Gelcoat means the work is done after the finish is applied.

Good luck boss.

I edited to clarify...  :afro:

[4shore]

Re cored the coffin lid


Cut the hole in the top


Bottom edges filleted and 3 oz csm laid in bottom. 2" foam board is in also!

[4shore]

Coring glassed in with 1208


All insulation installed in fish box


Framing for door hatch cut, I will have to hot coat it and glue it in place then i will route it out and fit the door.

[4shore]

Looking for motors while rebuilding. Would a 200 be too small? Should I be looking for a 250 at minimum?

[GoneFission]

Looking for motors while rebuilding. Would a 200 be too small? Should I be looking for a 250 at minimum?

IMHO, a pair of 115s up to 140s would be outstanding!     A single 250 would be a nice choice as well.

[kaptainkoz]

I will be running a single 1990 Evinrude 225 on my 246 ccp. My buddy has a yamaha 225 on his 24ft Grady walk around and does almost 40 mph with no shortage of power and thrust when needed to get through the breakers at the mouth of the inlet. The Grady is very heavy especially compared to CCP's or family fishermans.
Twin 140's are a great option for safety if you go far out because if one motor craps out you have the other, however it takes up a lot of space at the transom. A 250 would be great, but if you are talking older evinrude/Johnson that means going from 6 cylinders to 8 which means more weight and we all know that hull doesn't like too much weight in the rear if you want your drains to work.
My opinion would be to go smaller twins (largest 4 cylinders...140's???) or the largest 6 cylinder (Evinrude 225). Twins are also heavier than a single so that may be a consideration as well.
Lastly I'm not sure where you are using your boat, but on south shore Long Island it is rare that you have a calm enough sea to to open the boat up full throttle anyway. We are usually bouncing along the swells at mid 20 mph regardless of horsepower.

[4shore]

Im leaning towards an optimax 225 or a ox66 250

[kaptainkoz]

those are both awesome motors. I am not familiar with the specifics of them but I know that usually with most brands a 200 is the same block as a 225 but with bigger injectors/carbs, thus the same weight. Im not sure if the 0x66 250 is the same block as the 200/225, but overall my point is get the largest horsepower without extra weight. If a Yamaha 200/225 is lighter than that 250 then I would lean towards the 200/225. That hull will only go so fast before its unstable. Its not a speedboat

When I had my 200CCP, I was refurbishing Evinrude/Johnson 150's and 225's to sell. I would mount my newest rebuild on the 200CCP to water test them. The boat ran awesome with a 150. It was almost scary with the power of the 225 and I couldn't stand at the transom without my feet getting wet from water coming in from the floor drains because of the extra weight of the motor. To each their own. People like different things and have different expectations and needs. I would love a 175 for the 246CCP but I feel that might be just a hair weak in the rough.

[fishinonthebrain]

The last guy had a 175 on my 222ccp. I replaced it with a 2003 225 optimax but had wished I had two 120-150 optimax's to run offshore with more piece of mind.

I would go with two motors if I had a chance to do it all over again.

[4shore]

I never really had it in my head that i was gonna do twins. The cut out in the transom is for a single so i would have to fill it in and get a bracket, not sure thats gonna be cost efficient for me.

Off topic. I can't help but notice how floppy the sides of this boat are. I havent cut out anything but the back two feet of liner, including that massive splash well and the corresponding stringers under it. The transom is back in but have not reattached the stringers or liner to the new transom. Is this normal? Will it stiffen up or should i be laying some bulkheads in somewhere to stiffen it up?