Family Fisherman transom

[3xlski]

been on here before and you guys have been a great help, so I need you all to talk me off my roof. As I previously posted I bought a 1980 FF and a shore line trailer, no motor $900. Talked to a local boat repair man and had him look at cracks in my transom that were a concern to me. He said grind them and fill with a good resin filler and glass over it. Cool I can handle that, well tonight I venture into it a little bit and it looks like my F*%$#@ transom is rotted. Inside glass is ok outer gel is cracked and separating. tomorrow i will grind it down to see how bad it is. Can i just remove the rotted wood and leave the inner glass and glass in new wood? because im ready to take a chainsaw to this B%@#*. Thanks Ted

[Tx49]

No need for all that. The transom replacement is actually one of the simpler glass/restoration jobs around. Not the easiest mind you, its some work, but its not real complicated. There are numerous threads in the Rebuild section that give step by step and photographic progress. Good luck.

As a public disclosure, I haven't done mine yet, but I have read enough and seen enough, that that's one aspect of my rebuild where I have no doubts about taking on.

[3xlski]

Thanks Johnny for the input . Im just soaking this all in

[kaptainkoz]

Like TX said. Its not the end of the world at all. Spend some time on this site and you will see every way possible to do it. I am on my way to doing one myself as we speak. I personally like the pourable method of hollowing out the wood, leaving the 2 skins (or creating 2 skins) and pouring the cavity. Some on here like plywood or composits like Coo$a board.
I am grateful to this site for all the information. Without it there is no way I would be tackling what I am part way through. You can do it!!!!!

[3xlski]

Kaptainkoz, your from Bellmore? Im on Long Island also where did you purchase the pourable and how can i build a new outer layer it seems mine is all cracked. did you cut your cap off and fill then recap with cloth? im very confused. I was thinking of cutting the outer layer and removing the old wood and then epoxying new wood to inner skin and using resin and cloth to make a new outer skin. Will that work? I saw a few builds on here where they cut out outer skin and wood but they didnt say how they bonded the new wood to the inner . So many ways im confused.

[gman 82 aquasport]

If your heart is set on removing the outer layer to make it smooth again and no cracks, there are a couple of ways to accomplish that..cut the outer layer off, leaving a 1inch lip around the edge, clean out all the old wood and clean inner layer real good, if you want to change anything about the transom shape,height etc. nows the time , decide your height,shape or whatever and glass the inner to that shape or height making sure to get the inside of it all one level cut your pieces of plywood or composite whichever you use to size to fit as tight as possible without pressure on corners and such..(ply will probably be 2 layers) when using multiple layers bond them together first, if using resin, coat both pieces on the side that will be together(middle)lay a layer of glass  on one piece and coat with more resin you want it to sort of smush out when you put weight on it but not to much..lay top piece on the resin/glass and use a few short screws to hold in place(think corners) then put weight on it, blocks, bricks, buckets, barbells whatever you have handy.. Then let it dry..when dry remove screws and trim outer edge smooth, now tricky part, same process to attach it to the inner liner but now you are working on a verticle surface..little different you will need to use screws or long verticle clamps to keep the wood piece up tight against the liner, if you use screws every 6 to 8 inches apart and between rows, offset the rows( row 1 every 6in, row 2 evry 6 in but row 2 screws will be between row 1 screws)confused yet, it's not that bad when you get your head wrapped around it after its all set and dry remove the screws and fill the holes, won't hurt to grind inside of the inner piece and give it a thin coat of 6oz glass or so... then you can build out the outer layer with glass and resin use differing patters( 45 degree with 90 degree over it or roven with 6 or 10 oz over it), you will want at least 2 layers if not 3 or 4 depending on the glass  weight and thickness...all this in mind you will need to make sure you don't get too thick with it in total.. 8)  
Before you start tearing anything apart make a pattern of your engine bolt layout with precise measurements from keel up and sides to get everything back in the right place when done.. Take pics as you go and post and the guys on here will talk you thru the next step if you need it, they pulled me thru my rebuild Don't let the idea of doing it scare you, someone told me " it's only fiberglass if you screw up just do it over, it's only messy"

[3xlski]

Gman , all I can say is WOW!!! That is some explanation I really appreciate it. The only reason I want to do it from the outside is because the previous owner did an old repair and the gel is horrible. I started grinding out the original cracks but its pretty soft and it goes up to the cap on the port side. The local boat repairman by me said to finish grinding it out and shoot it up with a rot product, then fill it in and glass over it, then continue with my plan to put a transom plate on it. But I will know its still there and that is a concern. I want to do this right but I dont have time so im thinking of pricing it out. You said the new ply bonds to the inner skin with resin and matt? And what about the one inch lip all around how do I re glass the transom without overlaying the sides of the boat? i really appreciate all your help and everyone else s I just have to get my head into this winter is coming and my driveway is where the work will be done if I do it. im looking at some of the rebuilds on the centers buy havent seen any FF builds..Oh and my boat has a transom well also that was another reason I wanted to do it from the outer skin thanks again, 3xlski.

[kaptainkoz]

Hey 3XL, yes Im from North Bellmore. I am doing all of my work in my driveway! My neighbors love me as I am the guy with the snowblower! Gman has given you a great play by play on removing the outer skin and working against the inner skin. The advantage to that is that you do not have to disturb much past the inner skin (splashwells, stern). What I dont like about that method is all the weight of the motor is pulling/pushing down on that outer skin, so its critical to do it right as it is basically what is holding the motor from falling off.

My rebuild is different in that I have torn out the splashwell, stern area, and floor which made it very easy for me to work from the inside out and not disturb the outer wall. So with that said, my cap is cut back enough for me to work and my inner wall is gone. I will sand the inside of the outer wall clean, close off the motor cutout, reinforce everything with a few layers of biaxial, wedge in 2 inches of Home Depot insulation foam wrapped in plastic, build an inner wall with mat and biaxial, pull out the foam and pour Sea Cast brand transom mix. Simple right???

Im not sure if I am the one to ask as I have never done this before but I am working on over a year (almost 2) of research. So far so good. There are many tradesman on here that can give you a lifetime of advice.

As for your cracks, they may be cosmetic in the gel coat, and if they are actually cracked fiberglass, then yes, you can glass the heck out of it from the inside. I would be thinking long and hard as to which way I would go if I wasnt intending on disturbing past the inner wall. I would tell you to follow my rebuild (the Captain Koz II) but plans may be changing and I may not pour until the spring and do the floor now instead. I have a garage full of glass, resin and gel coat that I want to use up before it gets old. In any event I will be building the cavity for the pour within the next few weeks.

[3xlski]

Thank you Kaptainkoz for the info, I actually started grinding today and found what I kind of knew was going to be there when I did ROT the transom is soft and goes up to the port side cap. Fun, now I'm not to happy about this and I'm concerned about doing this by myself.

[bondobill]

Chill out my friend  
I have been there and done that
Ain't no big deal !!
After you calm down, come on back and we will walk you through it  

BTW  .......
 Welcome  

Bill

[Curious]

What bondobill said.  I would recommend that you take some time and look over his transom rebuild thread because it is exactly what you are asking about.  You can also check mine out for comparison, both are in the rebuilt forum.  When I did mine I left both skins intact, removed the old and poured the new (nidacore) through the top cap.  My method was very tedious and time consuming in getting ALL the old wood out and the inside of the skins roughed up.  The pour was very easy and it is now bulletproof.  I would recommend removing the rear skin, getting all the rotten wood out, roughing up the inner surfaces, replace the rear skin, and pour.  It would be much easier and save time in the long run to remove the rear skin versus the top cap access method.  The hard part is the final fairing and finishing which I know nothing about.  Thankfully my brother is in the business and it came out great.

If you do it properly now, you'll never worry about a band aid repair when you are out on the water.  Injecting a product like Git Rot is not a permanent repair and you will always have that nagging feeling that it could fail. Now is also the time to consider enclosing the transom and adding a bracket or raising the sides, etc.

[3xlski]

Ok boys I decided to go with it i am going to fix the damn thing. I looked at over 3 years of your rebuilds and ill try it. I talked to the fella redoing my motor about it and he was like "No big deal" seacast it. He said he has seacast from a job that someone bailed on and he will do it for $1000. I can buy my own and do it myself but i dont have time, two jobs. So I tried to show pics but as usual I cant post em. I cut a strip about 6 inches under rub rail down port wing 3" wide down and under transom cap along to starboard wing up to same spot to reveal rotted damage. I saved to piece of outer gel to replace to do pour. If I do it myself heres a few Questions... If I pour lower part of transom up to wings can I pour wings separate? and how do I get wood out of wings? its rotted up both why I dont know. And how do I pour wings there tough without cutting top cap up. Also Bondobill awesome build same boat. mine is an 80 and still has well and I dont have a cut out mine originally had duals. If my inner is in good shape do I need to layer it with roven and resin? I know Im a pain in the @%# but I want to make it right and I am glad you guys did it first because I can look at all your builds. Thanks again Koz and Bondobill for talking me back in from the dark side, 3xlski

[gran398]

You are doing good

In addition to the poured transom links...take a close look at Jdupree's transom rebuild.

He eliminated the well...changed the drains....raised the waterline...and offered up a ton more room in the cockpit.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10197

[bondobill]

3x
If you got someone to do the job with Seacast including labor for a grand jump on it
As far as laying up the inner liner of the transom.....I had no glue as to what the hell I was doing....just being honest with you bud.......
What I did worked for me but I am sure that there is bunch of folks on here that could give you a lot better advice.
My biggest mistake in my rebuild was not asking for advise on here before I started......my rebuild thread was post  mortum. I just didn't know how well these Southern gentlemen would warm up to a L Coast Yankee.
Got to say my concerns where dump founded.
They be a friendly group and when it comes to rebuilding Aquasports.............
"They be a walking,talking book of knowledge"

Bill

[3xlski]

Thanks gran I checked out JD's link nice work, boat and ideas. Bill thank you for your link as well. I'm not sure if I'm going to do away with the well yet because I don't want to get into deck work. But I'm up for ideas. I never had this boat in the water so I don't know but is it really a wet ride with the floor drains? I thought with the holes out the side it would be drier.  My old 222CC had the transom scuppers and they SUCKED I was always wet my kids always thought we were sinking. I do like the idea of more room in the back and JD's idea of bailing into the smaller well. Anyway bringing her to shop tomorrow for final walk through on transom ill keep posts on link thanks all you are a big help, ski.