Fletch's Hydra Sport 2100 CC

[Capt. Bob]

Let me do some research on the 21 vs the 24, I'll take your bet sir!!!!!

A giveaway would be beam width but.....

Both appear to be the same................. 96".

Looks like Gran is stretching both the mold and his dollar.

[gran398]

I don't know, after looking at this pic I may be FOS.

Weird how the stringers ended on Christians 2100 however.

They look pretty close though....here's the 2400

[Fletch170]

Scott,

I think I owe you a dollar. After really looking, I think you are correct.

[gran398]

All good as the kids say. Guess we'll never know, but it is plausible. Builders do different things all the time with molds. Onslow Bay has just started producing a stepped version of their 32. All they did was add two male pieces to the mold. Voila....a stepped hull. If you want the regular hull, no problem. The two parts are easily removed.

Spoke with Chris about your transom layup.

Against the outer skin, lay three layers of glass: Mat, roving, mat. You will overlap these into the bottom of the hull (rear bilge). Then while this is still wet, wet out the glass on the first piece of Penske board. Clamp everthing together and let cure.

You then come over the inside Penske board with three layers of mat, no roving. Wet out the second piece of board, clamp and let cure.

Finish with mat/roving/mat as before, tied to the hull. Fair, sand and spray gelcoat, you're through.

This layup duplicates the core sample shown above.

[Fletch170]

Ordering my supplies shortly.

I'm assuming the 3/4 oz mat is fine? Also, did you mean 18 roving, or should I be using 1708?

Also, Suggestions for clamping the board toward the keel? Drill a hole and use a bolt?

[RickK]

Fletch, here is a lam schedule that Eugene posted a while back and a lot of us have followed:

Completed transom lam schedule is as follows:

3/4 oz mat
3 x 1708
3 x 3/4 oz mat (clamped between core and outer transom lams)
3/4" Penske, 3/4 oz mat, 3/4" Penske (1.5" core)
3 x 1708
3/4 oz mat

Remember that the hullside and bottom laminates extend w/ overlaps 6" into the outer skin laminates of the transom as well prior to clamping of the core. Easy and effective way to beef up the lam schedule.

Here is a link to a rebuild he did that shows a bunch of different aspects of lam schedules, how to do the lam, clamping, etc.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.0

[Fletch170]

Nice!

I'm assuming he is speaking about 1708 without the mat stitched on, correct?

Scotty's guy has me going right for the kill and glassing the core in right away, I'm guessing either way is fine.

Also, I'm assuming before the inside layer of glass goes in (applied to core in bildge), I want to apply Carbosil putty in voids and create a nice filet around the edges?

[RickK]

There is usually a different part# if the 1708 does not have the mat stitched on - like 1708-DB or something like that.
If you look at the pics in the build you see them lamming the first 3 layers and then clamping that, then they started with the 3/4oz and built it out from there.
Eugene has been checking in here lately, maybe he'll reply to the specifics you asked, since it's his lam schedule.

[Fletch170]

I like the idea of using that MDF stuff to get the transom flat before moving on. As of right now, the skin bowed out, due to the wood cooring freezing and expanding. This will get her back into correct form. I think I'll move forward accordingly.

I also like the clamps, no need to drill holes!

[RickK]

Some people drill holes to ensure a good pull into the thickened resin.  Another bunch of holes to patch though.

[Fletch170]

What about the drain plug, any suggestion for what works best?

[Capt. Bob]

Here is the technique used by Rick and Chris (Dirtwheels) for their install.

Go down to the third post.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.500

Dirt's install.
http://

[RickK]

I think the main concern is how do you keep the drain hole as close to the bottom as possible?  You will inherantly be building up the thickness of the hull by lamming it with 6 or more layers of cloth.  That will make the very aft of the hull by the transom higher than the area 1 - 2 ft in front of the transom. So water will pool in front of the drain plug.  That is what is happening in my hull 
If I was to do it again I would think about placing a one foot 1" ID PVC pipe into the drain hole at it's lowest point and glueing it to the hull bottom and transom inside. Then start lamming the transom.
When ready to do the core, cut a semi circle out of the transom composite big enough to be able to lam it around the pipe or cut it tight, your call, it's composite anyway so it won't suck up any water.  Then do the 4 layers of cloth/CSM to the front of the transom material and lam it right over the pipe.  When all done I would take a grinder and grind the pipe at an angle up as close to the transom as possible without grinding much into the cloth layers on the hull and it will now still be the low point.
I would also still do the insert for the garboard plugs as shown in Chris's example.  Less holes through the transom to leak.
Something to think about.

[Fletch170]

Pretty interesting! There's a lot of thought there. However, being that I'm using Penske, I'm not as worried about the scrwes. However, I think the PVC sleeve is a great idea!

[Fletch170]

Hey guys,

Recently moved to a new house, so the boat was put on the back burner for a few weeks. However, got a chance to do some demo this past Sunday. With any luck, I'll start glassing in the transom next weekend. Here's some pics. I'm really astonished at the amount of wood that was not glassed.....just plywood. Also, as you will see, I'm 3 feet forward in the stringers before the wood is not complete mulch....had to cut up more decking. Ugh.