Fletch's Hydra Sport 2100 CC

[Que Pasa]

Fletch, how did you like the corelite. Are you doing your floor with it?

[Fletch170]

The corelite stuff is awesome. As I've stated before, there is no good reason to use anything else. Just as good as Coosa, and easier to work with. At a price point that for literally a few extra bucks, Marine Plywood would be foolish. I bought mine from Barnegat Light Fiberglass Supply.....great guys. I think it was $140 bucks a sheet.

I see you are in Somers Point, where I do all my boating. When she is done, you can see her in the C-Jam marina. Joe from Signature fiberglass will be painting it this winter.

-Christian

[Fletch170]

[Fletch170]

Made some progress today.

Made a few sheets for the rear storage doors, and built the splash well that will be glassed into the 3rd decking sheet.

[Fletch170]

Question for you guys: I'll be cutting the sheets to fit the holes so to speak. What is the best way to install the glass patch panels? For the console, I'm going to use some scrap plywood, and on the front, drill through the console and the patch panel, using the plywood to hold the panel flush. At that point, I'll tab it in from the back. However, I will not have access to the back for the rear storage area. What is best practice for installing the panels where there is no access from behind? Should I consider installing butt blocks? Any insight is greatly appreciated!

[dirtwheelsfl]

Question for you guys: I'll be cutting the sheets to fit the holes so to speak. What is the best way to install the glass patch panels? For the console, I'm going to use some scrap plywood, and on the front, drill through the console and the patch panel, using the plywood to hold the panel flush. At that point, I'll tab it in from the back. However, I will not have access to the back for the rear storage area. What is best practice for installing the panels where there is no access from behind? Should I consider installing butt blocks? Any insight is greatly appreciated!

The spaces in the very rear right?    Looks like you could glue cleats to the transom and around the perimeter maybe?

Are you going to be putting access plates in those spots?   If so you could just hot glue gun some temporary cleats in there and knock em out after you've got the filler pieces all tabbed on the outside. Then tab the inside thru your access holes.  Either way!   

[Fletch170]

Hey man, Yes there will be your run of the mill PVC hatches for access.

Looks like the tabs is the ticket. Thanks brother!

[Fletch170]

[Fletch170]

Well, that was fun. Got her foamed in. However, put way too much foam in the port side of the boat. The interesting part of LxWxH in a deep v boat, you need to measure in the center of the cavity, not the deepest part (which is obvious now, I just wanted to make sure I ordered enough. Soooo things got pretty out of hand when the foam expanded:) As you can see, it pushed the fill line and vent line up above where the deck would be. SOOO, had to painstakingly remove the foam around the lines without damaging them.

Got the patch panel in the console, and I'm very happy with the results. For that, I actually put the console on it side on the flat ground, put a car battery on the back of the panel to keep pressure, and tabbed around the edges. Worked really really well!

The key was my key to my Dad's house, foamed it into the starboard side. I guess the idea is that I'll always be "home" on the boat.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Comin together!    Cleats looks good 

[RickK]

Yeah that foam has a mind of it's own sometimes 

[Fletch170]

Got myself a nice new pull vehicle. Should do the trick:)

[RickK]

 

[Fletch170]

Does anyone make a "drop in" anchor locker like this? I don't want my anchor in the bow just flailing all over.

[Capt. Bob]

This topic has been broached before and the results weren't promising.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5027.0

Rebuilding the forward section of the cap would be the time to construct a custom model.

Can't recall anyone attempting it as of now.

Good luck.