Workshop Concept

[redemn93]

i recommend standard entry doors on the side and rear of the building.   as far as two garage doors up front, it all depends on how you plan to park stuff.  would a garage door on the side near the back be beneficial or would you always be pulling/backing straight in?

[Tx49]

Quick question....

But for grins and giggles lets try to get some sizes to run by..I would not build less than 30 feet deep and 24 feet wide, 14 foot ceiling height to get a 12 foot high door on the front so T-Tops are not an issue.. second door could be 9 or 10 foot high as to save some $...doors would preferably be 9 feet wide or wider for ease of trailer backing..

Gman recommended the big door in the front and a smaller type door (Thanks Gman!).  Am I wrong in assuming that it would be best to have the second door in the front of structure as well? Or should it be on the side? I just got the preliminary plans back from my draftsman and he put both of the roll-up type doors in the front on the draft design. (The access through the backyard gate will be directly in front of both doors in the current design... so that is great).  

If there are going to be any changes, I have to speak now or live with what I get.  

FYI... I do plan to install air conditioning but would like the fresh-air environment that would be enhanced with some cross-ventilation (doors on different sides)... when weather permits. But what it comes down to is what works best. (The structure in the design is CMU by the way, with 30 amp service, in case anyone wondered).

I would like your opinions. Thanks in advance!

You could get a decent draft through the building if you have high roof and then put a large vent fan in the gable at the back. Pulling air through the O/H door at the front, it will be constantly sending the hot air to the roof and then sending it out.

[FJStretch]

i recommend standard entry doors on the side and rear of the building.   as far as two garage doors up front, it all depends on how you plan to park stuff.  would a garage door on the side near the back be beneficial or would you always be pulling/backing straight in?

Pulling and backing straight in would be the norm.

[RickK]

I know you've gotten some great suggestions already and I offer you my $.02 because I have an extra bit of change   . If I ever build a home again I will build a 8 car garage (4 backed up by 4) which is 40x40, with a house on top of it (1600sf). 10ft ceilings in the ground floor. I figure 3 bays for a shop, 2 for the boat (1x40) and 3 for cars (including 1 for all the extra crap).  If you think ahead you could build a MIL suite above the structure you're building and maybe rent it out too.

I figure I could live within the 1600sf constraints even with all the stuff I have (including a 2nd boat).
Again, this is just me spreading my wealth around $.02 at a time.

[gran398]

We built a big garage once. At the last minute we added a small washroom with toilet. It was great for keeping the garage grease/dirt etc. in the garage. Plus when the kids  and their friends were outside playing they could use the restroom without tracking up the house.

Turned out having an "outside" restroom was a big plus for the household. As the lines were in we also plumbed an outdoor shower. Back in from the boat...yardwork etc....it was great

If you plumb an outdoor shower....make sure to install a shutoff and drain-cock in the line for freezing weather.

Looking forward to seeing your plan

[fishinonthebrain]

Quick question....

But for grins and giggles lets try to get some sizes to run by..I would not build less than 30 feet deep and 24 feet wide, 14 foot ceiling height to get a 12 foot high door on the front so T-Tops are not an issue.. second door could be 9 or 10 foot high as to save some $...doors would preferably be 9 feet wide or wider for ease of trailer backing..

Gman recommended the big door in the front and a smaller type door (Thanks Gman!).  Am I wrong in assuming that it would be best to have the second door in the front of structure as well? Or should it be on the side? I just got the preliminary plans back from my draftsman and he put both of the roll-up type doors in the front on the draft design. (The access through the backyard gate will be directly in front of both doors in the current design... so that is great).  

If there are going to be any changes, I have to speak now or live with what I get.  

FYI... I do plan to install air conditioning but would like the fresh-air environment that would be enhanced with some cross-ventilation (doors on different sides)... when weather permits. But what it
comes down to is what works best. (The structure in the design is CMU by the way, with 30 amp
service, in case anyone wondered).

I would like your opinions. Thanks in advance!

You could get a decent draft through the building if you have high roof and then put a large vent fan in the gable at the back. Pulling air through the O/H door at the front, it will be constantly sending the hot air to the roof and then sending it out.

Powered ridge vents work better. I have a 10,000 sq ft building with a 15' roll up door on each end and a 5' fan up by the ridge and we get a lot of flow through the doors. Heat just builds up above the doors.

[Tx49]

You could get a decent draft through the building if you have high roof and then put a large vent fan in the gable at the back. Pulling air through the O/H door at the front, it will be constantly sending the hot air to the roof and then sending it out.

Powered ridge vents work better. I have a 10,000 sq ft building with a 15' roll up door on each end and a 5' fan up by the ridge and we get a lot of flow through the doors. Heat just builds up above the doors.

I'm going off his desire to have the O/H doors in the front. If you don't have Doors on opposite ends of the building the backend of the building won't get much draft with roof vents. Doors on one end and gable vent on the other provides a draft throught the entire building. If he goes with doors on each end then yes the roof vents are the way to go.

[gman 82 aquasport]

My ideal set up would be tall door on front as well as the shorter door on front also, with if $ feasable a tall door at the rear on the same side as the front as to do pull thru's.. also would help with venting.. agree with others that a good power vent in the ceiling/attic area will move a lot of air...you want good ventilation when using resins and such.. I would have a 6 ft set of entry doors on one side or the other , makes moving supplies in much easier than sqeezing thru a 3 ft door

[FJStretch]

Project has been launched. Trusses arrived today. Going with concrete block per my contractor's advice... as he is a friend and giving me a good deal.

[Georgie]

 Great news!

Can't wait to see the progress and finished product.

[icemanbryan]

My opinion,
I would put a man door front and back.
I would also go larger on the electrical panel,
You will be surprised on the electrical use.
Welder, maybe a hoist or lift , air conditioner, outlets, switches, lights, fridge, etc.
It adds up real fast.

The air conditioner needs to be sized for the unit.
If you go metal check the codes for grounding the building.
Metal needs insulation and looks unfinished, there are alternatives.
Cement foundation, not too bad.
The metal building might need a small stem wall?
Sounds like a fun project, good luck.

Sorry, didn't see.
Block construction is an excellent way to go.
Show us photos!

[Aquasport Commodore]

I would look at spray in foam for the ceiling and walls. You can use the ductless systems for your ac unit. They are long and thin. You can have the compressor work a clean room area and leave the rest open, or add more heads and do the entire garage. My neighbor had one on his 20-40 lanai and he turned it to 68 degs during the summer. He had the spray in foam in his house and that florida room. His total power bill at that temp was 1/4 mine for my entire house with central ac.

[FJStretch]

Thanks for the input. I have a ductless system in my office and it works great and is energy efficient. I will also be looking to apply the foam insulation idea.  I need to discuss that with my builder to identify any limitations or other such opportunities. I am expecting a call from the local municipality today regarding approval of the permit. Then I can break ground.

[seabob4]

Thanks for the input. I have a ductless system in my office and it works great and is energy efficient. I will also be looking to apply the foam insulation idea.  I need to discuss that with my builder to identify any limitations or other such opportunities. I am expecting a call from the local municipality today regarding approval of the permit. Then I can break ground.

Who's your local municipality?  O-Town proper?  Winter Park?  Maitland?  Altamonte?  Unincorporated Orange County?

[FJStretch]

A hair west.... Ocoee.