Workshop Concept

[FJStretch]

I hope this is on-topic for this section of the forum and I apologize if it is not.

I have the opportunity to build a workshop in my backyard and I am wondering about what dimensions, materials should be used in this project. This workshop would be for working on boats and boat motors (hobby-level). Currently, one of my projects is my Osprey 200. I have never done a rebuild before but I could see me doing a complete rebuild down the line, including lifting the cap and getting into the stringers, fiberglass work, etc. I have and would be storing my tools in this structure, including my air-tools, compressor, an engine hoist, etc. I also would be using it to store/protect the boat I am working on. I don't think I would be storing/working on 30-ft or greater length boats in the long-haul. But I may take on a 222 or something in the future. I may also be working on a classic car or two but my boat is my probably my most specific target right now.

How much width, length, height would you guys recommend? My current boat doesn't have a T-Top but the next one might and I would like to be able to accommodate such a boat if that ends up in the cards down the line.

I plan to put a small air conditioner unit in the structure so I can work in the rain and heat of summer here in FL.

I am going with a concrete foundation for certain. Right now I think I am going with block construction but I am trying to figure out the cost effectiveness of a quality metal structure (like a warehouse) or something similar.... and what the limitations would be if I went in that direction (a/c, etc.).

I have to keep in mind that this is my backyard, and although I have plenty of room, I just want a big enough structure to store and work on a single boat. I got a friend who is a contractor and is going to help me with this project.

[gran398]

Make it as big as you can afford. You can always use extra room. Since you're in Fl block construction will be easier to cool.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Like gran said as big as the budget will allow is the guy way But for grins and giggles lets try to get some sizes to run by..I would not build less than 30 feet deep and 24 feet wide, 14 foot ceiling height to get a 12 foot high door on the front so T-Tops are not an issue.. second door could be 9 or 10 foot high as to save some $...doors would perferably be 9 feet wide or wider for ease of trailer backing..The height inside allows for engine hoist use with no issues..If you use trusses for the roof figure at least 3 microlam beams that will go from side to side at predetermined spots to use as lifting points for caps or other things that will need to be lift from multiple spots at one time(think comealongs hooked to the beams) With 30 feet of depth you can keep the high door side for the boat and use the other rear corner for tool storage and equipment. If you are going to run dedicated power to the building, might want to look at 200 amp service, would carry everything and more for the future, A/C, welder, lights and all the outlets you can think of(every 6 feet). Windows and or skylights would help keep the electric load down some by using natural light.. but become a liabilty as far as security and storms if thats an issue... just my .02

[FJStretch]

Thanks very much for the input. I will get this to the guy drafting my plans pronto. I really appreciate the information!

Let me know if you or anyone else thinks of anything else.

BIG THANKS!!

Stretch

[saltfly]

I think I’ve seen these building in Fl. But can’t remember for sure. Pole building are the cheapest way to go. For exp. I what’d a building 24 x 30 with a 10 ft high and 8ft garage doors. In 2005 stick built $25,000.  After looking into a pole building. I got it built instead. 24 x 36 with 10 foot high clearance, $14,000. These buildings here, have even come down in price. A 30 x 40 with a 12ft clearance and 10 ft doors,  $13,000. So you can compare and see . Build it your self for even less. Al most for got.  I would change mine in one way. I would put one door on the side and one higher door on the end.

[dburr]

What gman said x2..  I went 4 foot spacing on the outlets, number 12 wire, with a single (2 holer plug) and alternated legs for the outlets.  A leg first outlet, B leg second and so on...  I should have doubled the boxes and gone with 4 holers..  Not that there is that much stuff running at once but swapping plugs and dropping one on the floor down behind the bandsaw etc is a pain and after a while that lost time frigging with the plugs adds up.  

Hanging power for the ceiling for the middle of the shop would be cool too tripping on extension cords is a pain.. Getting whacked in the head by Plugs wouldn't be a picnic either and it's probably illegal....

The Boatshop is 16x30 and the barn is 30x40 and neither is big enough... Put them together and that might be something.

[Capt. Bob]

After hurricane Andrew, I built a 30' x 24' CBS building to store my 170 and my truck. If you are concerned about storm protection, this would be my suggestion. I built it with that in mind. Several years later I would buy my 222 CCP and store that inside. That meant that the truck would not fit and at 30', I needed to remove the trailer tongue in order to store it. I did have a full bracket on that boat so it ate up the room quickly. I built it as a safe structure in case I had to ride out another "Andrew" type storm so costs were secondary.

Engineered steel buildings are very popular up here in the panhandle and can be finished off inside to look like any other construction. Windows and A/C are done just like any other type building and a monolithic poured slab is the norm for a foundation.

Since you have a friend in the business, he can tell you what type of trades are in your area, which should be a guide to your style construction. Masons, framers or steel erector trades that are local (or very close) will determine your labor costs. Material costs are somewhat stable right now (usually follow fuel) but can change quickly. It's a good time to build.

No matter what type construction you choose, keep in mind a slab of decent size in front of your shop. Great for washing/running/trailer repair (weather permitting).

Good luck.

[redemn93]

i agree with bob.  to further his point, depth is your friend when working on or storing a boat.  his 24' width would be narrowest id go as well.  my father in law made the mistake of doing a crushed concrete driveway all the way to the foundation slab.  he regrets it even though i warned him.  he now has to clean the boat in teh house driveway then pull it back into the street and over to the building or else the crushed concrete will slowly wash away.  he now is planning on pouring a slab.  his building is 20x30.  he stores an 18' maverick in there.  if he stepped up to a 20' boat there wouldnt be much room in front of or behind to walk around/work on anything.  luckily that boat is so light he can roll it around on the tongue jack.

[fishinonthebrain]

A Metal building would be your cheapest building. Just call around to metal building manufacturers in your area. They should be able to give many sizes to choose from and also supply you with a list of erectors. The suRpRise will be how much the slab will cost. Don't go cheap get the building insulated you will love it.

[FJStretch]

Very interesting! I will check the metal building option out.  Thanks!

Thanks for all the recommendations everyone. I am very glad I posted this topic. I would have gone to narrow and too short if I hadn't. Thanks!

[fishinonthebrain]

Very interesting! I will check the metal building option out.  Thanks!

Thanks for all the recommendations everyone. I am very glad I posted this topic. I would have gone to narrow and too short if I hadn't. Thanks!

Also the metal building will come designed for the wind speed in your area.

[bondobill]

Hey Stretch
My advice is......
When you decide on the final dimensions of the shop.......

Double it !!!

Bill

[Tx49]

...

I plan to put a small air conditioner unit in the structure so I can work in the rain and heat of summer here in FL.

I am going with a concrete foundation for certain. Right now I think I am going with block construction but I am trying to figure out the cost effectiveness of a quality metal structure (like a warehouse) or something similar.... and what the limitations would be if I went in that direction (a/c, etc.).

Many people make the mistake of using a small A/C because they think that they aren't trying to make it as cool as a house. They end up with an A/C that they wear out in a short period of time, that costs them out the wazoo because of its inefficiency, and freezes up because of being overworked.  You need a ton of air for every every 3000-4000 cubic feet. If you are using a window type unit, you can probably go up to about 50% more square footage than what the box says its made for, given that its a shop.

Anytime you get above 16' feet in length,width, or height a Metal Building will start becoming cheaper than a stick frame. Your contractor friend should be able to tell you where to buy MB Insulation that is cut in the sizes you need. For a shed or shop CMU will never be a cheaper solution, but It will give you a better building. If you are laying the block yourself or with "beer" labor, you can make CMU a cheaper solution. Block walls with a Pre engineered roof system, would give you a reasonably cheap very strong building. Incidentally, CMU will give you the best return of investment towards your equity. You can also pay a few cents a block more and get what is called split-face block. You don't have to paint it and it is higher end block.

[FJStretch]

CMU would look nice and less conflict with the house as far as appearances go. Thanks for the info.

I will be taking your advice on the AC.  It's just a matter of central or a large Mr. Slim type of unit. It will probably be central air unless there is a more efficient alternative. Lots of options.

Thank you very much for the info. I need all the help I can get.

[FJStretch]

Quick question....

But for grins and giggles lets try to get some sizes to run by..I would not build less than 30 feet deep and 24 feet wide, 14 foot ceiling height to get a 12 foot high door on the front so T-Tops are not an issue.. second door could be 9 or 10 foot high as to save some $...doors would preferably be 9 feet wide or wider for ease of trailer backing..

Gman recommended the big door in the front and a smaller type door (Thanks Gman!).  Am I wrong in assuming that it would be best to have the second door in the front of structure as well? Or should it be on the side? I just got the preliminary plans back from my draftsman and he put both of the roll-up type doors in the front on the draft design. (The access through the backyard gate will be directly in front of both doors in the current design... so that is great).  

If there are going to be any changes, I have to speak now or live with what I get.  

FYI... I do plan to install air conditioning but would like the fresh-air environment that would be enhanced with some cross-ventilation (doors on different sides)... when weather permits. But what it comes down to is what works best. (The structure in the design is CMU by the way, with 30 amp service, in case anyone wondered).

I would like your opinions. Thanks in advance!