Mercury 225 Offshore

[Fletch170]

good point. It's just in my nature to try to pull it apart and try to fix it myself.

[Fletch170]

Here is the boat it's going on:

Follow the build!!!!

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11282

[fitz73222]

Don't sweat the oil pump. If this is a 2000 hour+ engine then consider it. They used the same system from 1984 on. Most failures occured from neglect, contaminated oil and water invading the lower ball bearing and damaging the drive and driven gear just above the bearing. These engines were not designed to run 50-1 throughout the entire rpm range. They run 80-1 at idle and typically dont get to 50-1 until 3500-4000 rpm. The oil is metered through a control arm link attached to the throttle linkage and oil pump that diverts or allows oil delivery out of the pump based on throttle position. It's a purely mechanical system with 10's of thousands of hours of testing. I've personally seen many powerhead failures in the "good old day's" because of excessive oiling causing coking and stuck or broken rings. I would much rather purchase an oil injected engine than an engine that relied on someone acccurately measuring and mixing the oil properly with every gallon of gas. Present company excluded, most people do not have the discipline to do things right over and over again with respect to properly mixing oil and gas during a 60 or 70 gallon fill up. If I come across a "converted" 50-1 engine; red flags pop up in my head and I will pass on the engine. Oil injection lowered warranty claims for the OEM's by eliminating the consumer mixing variable and drastically increasing engine life.

[GoneFission]

What Fitz said - Mercury oil injection systems are pretty bullet-proof...  

[Fletch170]

Hey guys, got the motor on the boat......having a serious issue at the moment. It is trimmed all the way down, and the controls are not hooked up. I can't really move the boat. I tried releasing the hydraulics, but the nylon screw is completely stuck. I thought, crap, il just hook up a battery and use the trim switch on the motor itself. One small problem THE DAMN MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE ONE. There is a spot where one would mount, but there is just a plastic panel. Questions are:

1. Can I simply buy one (a switch) and its plug and play?

2. How the hell am I going to free that nylon screw????

3. If neither of these are an option, I guess I'll have to hook up the harness and battery to get the motor in the up position.


This seems really stupid.... What if the trim switch fails on the binnacle?

Anyways, I know this was a bare bones motor, but the majority of the ones I've seen DID have the trim on the motor.

Any help would be appreciated!!!!

[seabob4]

That's weird, butttt......

You're gonna have a blue and a green wire in the lower pan, put power to blue and she'll come up...

[GoneFission]

Hey guys, got the motor on the boat......having a serious issue at the moment. It is trimmed all the way down, and the controls are not hooked up. I can't really move the boat. I tried releasing the hydraulics, but the nylon screw is completely stuck. I thought, crap, il just hook up a battery and use the trim switch on the motor itself. One small problem THE DAMN MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE ONE.
Any help would be appreciated!!!!

Here ya go - you can mount this on the cowl and then run the blue-green wires up the helm control (blue is up; green is down):
New:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quicksilver-87- ... f6&vxp=mtr  

Used:  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-outboar ... 06&vxp=mtr  

Or here is the one with longer wires if you want to mount it somewhere else:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LARSON-0531011- ... d2&vxp=mtr

[Fletch170]

Thanks John!

The used one you sent over, I was actually already "watching" on ebay. I went ahead and bought it.

I still don't understand why this motor didnt have it.

So, any insight for getting that damn bypass screw out?



Also, in the meantime, Bob, you said put the hot to the blue wire and she will come up, I'm assuping just put the ground to the block?

[seabob4]

Chris, the TNT motor is already grounded.  You just need to supply 12V+.

About the manual release screw...keep soaking it with PB.  If the slot in the head for a BIG screw3driver isn't stripped too bad, you may be able to loosen it.  If the slot is really buggered up, I'd try and grind a new slot with a dremel and a really small tip.  Go slow...

[Fletch170]

Awesome stuff Bob, as always, you guys are so helpful.

I don't think I can get a dremel in there though........

Used a giant flathead like I did on the Yamaha on the 17, but no luck. You can feel the nylon screw actually twisting, but it's obvious that the threaded portion will just not budge.

I'll hit it with some PB and see what happens.....

As mentioned, this is my first Mercury, so I'm on a bit of a learning curve. I know where to look for stuff on a Yami.....not so much with merc.

[futch13]

Drill it out and use an ez-out, a little heat with a butane torch (not too much due to valve seals) and it usually comes out.  Its a little easier with the unit off the motor, but can be done on the motor.  Sometimes left hand drill bits are your friend

[FJStretch]

Reversed-threaded screw? (Blush).

[gran398]

Guys, good job, get her running right. Follow the build as encouraged... this one is sweet

[futch13]

Reversed-threaded screw? (Blush).

Should be standard threads, it has an e-clip to keep it from coming out all the way, if my memory is not too far gone

[FJStretch]

I'm pretty sure the arrow at the access hole on my transom bracket points clockwise to release. It is worth checking. Plus... If you can get the screw to move a little in the opposite direction, it may help it break free. Worth a try before the drilling begins.

Good luck!