What did you use for mounting a tower/t-top?

[CLM65]

I've seen discussions in Kaptainkoz's thread as well as a few others regarding reinforcing the deck to take the stress and strain of a tower or t-top.  I think the best way is to install a backing plate under the deck and thru-bolt with a locknut and washer.  But what if you don't have access to the underside?  In my case, I think at least part of the tower/top will sit over the stringers.

I am planning on using 3/4" Kay-Cel for decking where the console and top will mount (nidacore elsewhere), but I don't trust it for holding screws that take alot of load.  So what should I use that I can mount inside my stringers, or to the underside of the deck, that will be up to the task?

Capt. Matt used 1/2" aluminum plates, drilled and tapped.  I've broken taps off before, so that scares me a little.  Scotty (Gran) installed duralloy, but never actually used it.  I believe the duralloy would just be screwed into, not tapped.  What other material is out there, and what recommended thickness, that would work for this?

[icemanbryan]

My T Top is  thru-bolted with all stainless hardware, backing plates and lock nuts.
I am sure the guys in the know will chime in

[Blue Agave]

If you know where the tower will mount I would notch the stringers at those locations so you can thru bolt with aluminum backing plates.  As far as access goes, build the access into the deck. I recommend a fuel access door.

[dirtwheelsfl]

^ this.   Got it all apart so build the access in to get it thrubolted. Maybe a couple hatches inside the console to keep the deck clear?    I like to use G10 for backing plates. No dissimilar metal problems...

[CLM65]

I am planning on access ports under the console if the legs are between the stringers.  However, what if the legs are right on the stringers?  I do not have a console or tower yet (budget and space availability require me to do this rebuild in stages), so I don't know exactly where everything will sit.  Is the G10 something that will hold a screw?  Do you tap it?  Or is it just a backing plate for thru-bolting?

[gran398]

I'm with Nando and Bryan. Through bolt with aluminum backing plates beneath the substrate to spread the load is the first and best option.

We should have planned better, and taken a closer look at exactly where everything was going at the tail-end of the install. We were successful on 85% of the planning...but we failed on this. It turned out fine...but we wasted weight and money.

Recommend choosing your console... mock it up in cardboard and duct tape.... and work backwards.

[Blue Agave]

However, what if the legs are right on the stringers?

As I said, build notches into the stringers where the top/tower mounts.

[CLM65]

However, what if the legs are right on the stringers?

As I said, build notches into the stringers where the top/tower mounts.

Gotcha - missed that part.  I guess I need to do some searching to at least get the size of a console and talk to a tower fabricator to see how accurately he can predict where the feet will be.

[Aswaff400]

my tower i bought from eugene has a narrow enough footprint that it will fit between the original stringers in the original location. its a quality t-top 23 dorado tower. i plan to put a aluminum backing plate under the deck

[CLM65]

Nice tower Aaron!  How wide is it at the feet?

[gman 82 aquasport]

Don't know if this was right or not, but on my t-top, which was home made, the legs sit on top of the stringers and I knew that at the time of my floor rebuild ..I added 1 layer of 3/4 in ac fir to the tops of my stringers and 2 extra layers of glass over them, tabbed to the floor...so I am using 2 1/2 inch stainless screws into 1 1/2 in of ply with a total of 6 layers of glass and epoxy(top of floor ,floor, bottom of floor and the stringers) sealed with 5200 in the holes , around the threads amd around the screw heads and the plates..mine also attaches to the console in 6 places...so far no movement, I do cross-strap the top when towing more that 25 miles or so on the interstate..I figure 70 mph is as fast as the boat will see and thats on land 8) Hindsight being 20/20, I would use backing plates if at all possible, expecially if the tops legs where inside the stringers....But if theres a next time on a next boat, thats the way it will be done

[Blue Agave]

Craig, I would recommend getting the console you want in your possession. It would suck to do a floor plan only to find out the console you want is no longer available.  Once you have the console you can dictate to the fabricator where you want the mounts to go. Do you have access to a rebuilt flatback with a tower?  If so you can get ideas from the floor plan.  Mine is not a flatback but it is currently in Brooksville for the scallop season if you want to take a look at my console and tower. I believe the mold for my console is tucked away in the corner of a friends shop.

[seabob4]

I can get dimensions of Nando's top if you want them Craig.

But another suggestion.  Glass 1/4" aluminum plate on top of the stringers, then when it comes time to install the top, drill and tap...

[Aswaff400]

Nice tower Aaron!  How wide is it at the feet?

the front legs inside width is only like 28 inches and about 29 inches at the rear  its a pretty narrow tower. i like it.

[Capt Matt]

Keep your eye open for a used tower or t-top you can make it work this far into the build and it will save you thousands. Rigging 2 stations is expensive enough, a brand new custom built tower is 8-12K
Capt Matt