246 CCP fiberglass schedule - floor and transom

[kaptainkoz]

Ouch Gran! I am going to use the original console from my 200 CCP so at least the port and starbord lip will bolt right to the stringers. I think I will reinforce the stringer and even see if I can set it up for stainless T-Nuts in the reinforcement. I will have to strenghten the mount as the plan is to build a pilot house that wil bolt directly to the console. I do not want to go any wider than I have to as it is tight enough moving past the console. To add to it, I am moving the console forward almost 30 inches which sets its further into the curve of the bow. I will definitely need a bomb proof console mount. I will also be reinforcing the console to accept the additional weight and mount of the enclosure.

I went with the 200CCP console for a few reasons. One, I spent HOURS tuning it up to how I want it and wiring it. second, it is a few inches shorter than the 246 console so I wont need as tall of a seat at the helm. The pilot house will protect me from spray so the height is insignificant.

I am aiming for the look of the True World Marine boats with the design of my pilot house. Here is a mock photo:



Everything else will hold with a standard mount. I am going with a single jockey seat a the helm which I am going to custom cast, then an original fiberglass flip back cooler seat behind it. I will have the 4 ft coffin box from my 200CCP in front of the console. None mentioned will need an above average mounting surface.

[gran398]

Good lookin'

Yep, we goofed a bit, added a hundred pounds or so...but if you add weight, right in the belly is the place to do it.

Taking a look at the Shipoke builds...they add the Penske Board in pre-determined, strategic areas.

Like your thinking. Glad you've switched to fir on the deck

[dirtwheelsfl]

Why not just glass the console down?

[kaptainkoz]

Gran, to answer your prior question... I went to a local lumber yard, Allers lumber on Merrick Rd in Lindenhurst to check out lumber. Being they are right in the heart of south shore boat country I figured they would speak my language. They had beautiful Doug fir marine ply, 3/4 for about $100 a board. Pin straight, void free, nice stuff. They also had A/C fir from 1/4 on up which was pretty stuff for the pilot house. The rubber glass weatherstripping for the glass windows accommodates 1/2 inch, so I have to build the walls out of 3/8's so they glass to 1/2 inch. In going to skin the roof in 1/4 for weight savings. The pilot house is a chapter for next season as the transom and floor are first but I have to plan out the materials. So far so good!

[Capt Matt]

Glassing  in the console is the way to go
Nice clean install and no screws to vibrate loose or Leak water into wood deck
Capt Matt

[kaptainkoz]

I dont think glassing the console is the way to go. For one, it would only bond the console to the top skin. You would be relying on the bond of the glass to your core (plywood, coosa, nida core, etc) to hold the console in place. That would make me a bit nervous. I want it bolted to something solid. Also, I like the look of the teak trim along the bottom of the console. Granted, mine is now Trex but it looks close enough for me. Lastly, for all CCP's, they need to remove the console in order to get the gas tank cover off. Not a factor for me as I am moving my console forward but you get the point. To each their own.