What is your engine starting proceedure?

[Bergertime]

I am curious on the procedure to cold start my engine as I have had a hard time starting it (98 225 Johnson Carbed) the last two times I have been out, each one week apart. I have referenced the owner’s manual for the engine but it's not much help.

Up until approx two weeks ago and after I changed out my key switch (a month ago) my engine would start religiously on the second key turn.  Worthy to note, last week and this week it always starts right up after its been run with a pop of the key as I have started and stopped it multiple times docking and fishing.  It literally runs great after the initial start so I’m inclined to think there is some sort of issue with the auto priming feature but any thoughts on my starting procedure would be greatly appreciated as I am wondering if I am flooding the engine inadvertently.

My current procedure:
1) When I get to the boat ramp I get my ropes and other stuff ready while parked out of the way. Attach the emergency shutoff lanyard and insert the boat key.  I lower my engine down off the travel bracket and squeeze the primer bulb till it’s very firm.
2) Back the boat down and tie off.  Lower the engine the rest of the way down and squeeze the primer bulb again (usually needs 2 times max) until its very firm.
3) Push in the key to the prime position and turn and hold for 3-5 seconds engaging the starter.  This is where difference is..  Up until two weeks ago it would start on the second push and turn.  Last two times it has take 6-10 times with last night taking longer with the engine finally firing and starting. Idled fine after start.

Question:  At what point would I engage the throttle in neutral and what is the proper way to use that process during a challenging starting situation..  Again, I want to make sure I am not making my problem worse, i.e., continuing a flooding condition.  

Looking for suggestions and guidance –

B

[flounderpounder225]

First, you should check to see if the enrichment solenoid is working, or leaking.  They have a habit of leaking around the red selector lever on the solenoid.  Have someone push the key in while cranking and see if you are getting the squirt of fuel in the carbs as it should, you will have to remove the plenum cover to see this on the carbs.  Second, I always bust my engine off at the house on the hose for a minute or so, then when I hit the ramp, there is no hestitation at all when I start it up, and I know it will start, and not hold up others trying to launch..

[GoneFission]

You are doing the right sequence.  Two things to check:

1.  Check the wires to the primer pump - sometimes they get corroded (hard to see sometimes).  
2.  Check the magnets with your finger up under the flywheel - they should not be loose - that can cause starting problems as well.

Also, I think the plugs should be QL77JC4s gapped at 0.030 - check the gap on the plugs also.  

Lastly, what is the condition of the starting battery?  It needs to spin the engine over 300 RPM for the coils/magnetos to give off a good spark - it will start at a slower speed, but may take more cranking.

Hope this helps - good luck!

[gman 82 aquasport]

Don't know if this helps or is right/wrong to do , but on my 1992 Johnson 150(carb), I always find neutral and push throttle forward 1 time about halfway and bring it back then push the key in and start it, mine starts first time probably 90% of the time this way, usually if doesn't it's because I didn't give the bulb enough squeeze..if it doesn't start the first time I don't give it any throttle after the first time , but thats my engine and they all seem to like things a little differently sometimes.

[Bergertime]

Thanks guys for the quick response some things to check now.  Much appreciated.  Will update on findings.  

Have a good week!

B

[Bergertime]

Update:

Started the trouble shooting today after work and had the same issue upon the cold start.  I eventually got the motor running by giving it throttle in neutral while cranking.  I had to flush the motor today anyway as I used the boat last night and got back too late to run in on muffs.  Here is where I am at now:

1) Checked the primer pump and it did in fact make a clicking noise when I pushed the key in.

2) Pressurized the bulb and had a friend push the key in and both ports squirted fuel when the two output hoses were disconnected

So.. tomorrow I will test each of the six branches including the two main lines for clogs that would prevent the fuel from getting to it's destination.

If I find the issue.. well that is good news :)  However.... if all the lines are delivering fuel from the primer pump what is my next likely suspect?  I know that spark plugs and the battery were both mentioned..  Keep in mind that in all cases the motor starts right up after it's run for 5 min and runs perfect. Thoughts on my next likely suspect??

B

[Capt. Bob]

If I find the issue.. well that is good news :)  However.... if all the lines are delivering fuel from the primer pump what is my next likely suspect?  I know that spark plugs and the battery were both mentioned..  Keep in mind that in all cases the motor starts right up after it's run for 5 min and runs perfect. Thoughts on my next likely suspect??

If you're getting fuel, then it could be spark. These mid 90 JonnyRudes were labeled as "cold starters" but I'd look at what CJ suggested. That beast needs to spin up in order to generate the hot spark. When it's warm, it will touch off quick but cold, it has to spin. My 96 200hp acted just like you describe. More of an art than a science to starting. Get it spinning first then push in the key. As CJ stated, it needs 300 + rpm to fire.

[Bergertime]

Thanks Bob.. I may just go ahead and change the spark plugs tomorrow as I know they are over a year old and I have put some serious hours on the boat.  Being a total newbie on this stuff what type of plugs should I get and where should I go to get them?  I don't mind spending a little more if necessary.  Is there anything more that I need to consider besides getting a gapping tool and setting the proper gap?

B

[gman 82 aquasport]

Quick ? Are you running 2 batteries? If so are you just starting it with 1? Have you tried starting it with the switch on both if you have 2 batteries? I know, quick ? turned into 3 ?

[Bergertime]

I have two batteries and I usually start the boat using both at the dock or home.  Both batteries are less than 2 years old so that was my third item to review.  I may buy a charger (need one anyway) and put a charge on both and see if that helps.  This begs another ? from me.  Any recommendations on AC battery chargers?  Don't want to spend a fortune but I also don't want to cook my batteries by using a cheap unit.  Thoughts?

-Bruce

[Capt. Bob]

OK, That's a carbed OMC so the plugs aren't special. We should be able to get the factory spec easy enough.

Here ya go.  QL78YC That would be a Champion plug if I recall.
They should be available at an Evinrude dealership but I'd try an auto parts store for a price point.

The battery charger will depend on the type batteries you have. Flooded, gel or agm.

Most are "smart chargers" but not all. It appears that the one you linked to is.

[Bergertime]

Thanks Bob - Called the local Auto Parts store and they are special order so I called the local Evinrude shop near my office I use (good people) and they have them in stock.  They are a little more expensive but I don't mind supporting a local business.  The mechanic there is always willing to answer my ?s.

B

[Skoot]

Try keeping your engine tilted up on the initial start.  Tilt down the engine just enough to have the water intake and prop under the water.  This works for me, first turn every time.  If I tilt it all the way down on a cold start it always has trouble starting.

[GoneFission]

Try keeping your engine tilted up on the initial start.  Tilt down the engine just enough to have the water intake and prop under the water.  This works for me, first turn every time.  If I tilt it all the way down on a cold start it always has trouble starting.

That could be a different problem!   :!:   Most motors have a mercury switch so you can't start them when tilted up too high.  Check the mercury/tilt switch if the motor has differences in starting upright or tilted.  Another source could be carb float levels...  

[Bergertime]

Update:

Continued to work on her last night.  

1) Changed the spark plugs (went with the factory specified Champions rather than NGKs).  From the look of the old ones it was really time.  She cold started a little better with the new plugs but I am not sold that in itself resolved the problem since I ran her a bunch on the hose yesterday.



2) Checked the primer lines and the set that supplies the right bank of heads was not delivering much fuel when the solenoid was activated.  I tried to clean them out by pushing some air through them with my compressor but it did not seem to help that much.  I will have to replace the tubing when I can find the replacement, will search today. Easy but tedious.  

3) After all work was done I hooked up the battery charger and the first battery was very low.  It took almost 4 hours to charge it and based on the needle it was significantly drained.  I will be charging the second today.  Thinking about the first battery and the feedback provided I feel that the low /drained batteries may be the ultimate culprit with the other two items just making it worse.  I will know for sure tomorrow when I take her out in the morning for some fun at the beach.  

Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions.. Once again, I'm very appreciative of the support!

Tight lines,

Bruce