will 1996 mercury mid work with 1989 blackmax?

[redemn93]

I see the 2 bolts on the adapter plate.  What else is holding it on?  I had the drill through  the 2.4 adapter plate to break the studs.  2.4  ph is off now.  but 4 studs are stuck in the mid through holes.  Been spraying pb blaster from the top for a few days now.  Hopefully they will loosen up.  Any other tricks to loosen them?  Hammer and punch from the top?  Hopefully my 2.0 Ph will come off easier.

[fitz73222]

Are the threaded part of the studs still accessable? I would try double nutting the remaining exposed threads and Mapp Gas torch the housing that is surrounding the stud to get it to expand while wrenching on the nut/stud. Once you get the stud to turn, you will see salt dropping out of the housing that has impacted itself between the stud and housing. Once the stud starts to squeal as you turn it, drive it out from the top with a punch and hammer. You can also hit it with WD-40 or PB Blaster while she is hot and it will suck it down into the housing and lubricate. It should drop out with a couple of good raps. I believe your studs are 10mm so you may need to go to the store to get some extra nuts for the excercise. This is what we encountered when we did Miss Delmarva's (Scotts) twin 75's with the lower units being salt welded to the studs. I had to pull both powerheads just to be able to rock the gearcases on the studs enough to get the salt to start to walk out of the housing. I refused to start beating and prying the gearcases off as many "impatient" people do and 12 hours later they were off without a scar.

[redemn93]

i took a break from that one and put my current motor on the stand to pull the good powerhead off.  guess what.  its stuck too    

i tried double nutting already but stripped the stainless nut threads in a hurry and i didnt apply heat while at it.  i went out last night and bought some grade 8 nuts.  ill try again tongiht with some heat to see what happens.  

im also going to see if the lower will pop out hopefully.  at least that will hopefully mean the crank splines are ok.

[dburr]

Good info on penitrants here:

Data:
April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test wrote:

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ...... Average load ..... Price per fluid ounce
None .................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds ...... $0.25
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds ...... $0.35
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds ...... $0.21
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ...... $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds ...... $0.10 (50/50 mix)

If you go with ATF-Acetone be SPUER careful with the heat!!!! Acetone volitalizes and goes boom really easily and at low temperatures.  Good news, by the time you soak the studs and then go look for the torch the acetone should have evaporated.  You want to turn the stud out not blow it out right?         It is defenately NOT the mix I would want to use to quench a hot stud with..  

[redemn93]

great info.  thanks.  ill look into that tonight.  the liquid wrench surprises me.  much better than PB blaster.  ive never heard of kano.  anyone know if lowes or HD carry it?

not going to mess with the acetone since i plan on using heat.  might see if i can borrow an oxy/aced torch too.  all i have now is map gas.

[dburr]

Map is your best bet because Map burns cooler then Acetylene.  Acetylene especially if you leave the burning tip on can go ugly fast, aluminum will not change color before it melts, I found that out the hard way...     You start to heat the piece, your ok, you notice the paint bubble, then smoke then the whole thing blobs on the floor, then the cussing starts...  The point heat of acetylene is a bunch higher then Map and with a way more concentrated flame with the burning tip.  If you use a brazing tip you will be considerably safer and things will take a little longer to get exciting, but again you are dealing with a concentrated high temp flame.  A Rose Bud tip would work but the potential for it to get to hot to fast still exists..

The melting point for aluminum is somewhere between 860-1240 F, stainless is about 2750.  Sorry, I get nervous when acetylene and aluminum get close.  

The repeated cycling is what will help free stuff up, a concentrated blast can go wrong quickly and can get expensive.  

I apologize if I am getting preachy, I just would rather not have something bad happen..

[redemn93]

not a problem at all.  i appreciate all comments and help.  i didnt think it would melt the aluminum that quick.  ill stick with the map.  ill report back tomorrow if i can get my good powerhead removed.

thanks everyone for the help and not being like the other forum who might tell me to throw out that POS and get a brand new motor.  we arent all ballers here.

[dburr]

Have patience and good luck  

[fitz73222]

Have patience and good luck  

X2 what Dave said... when dealing with saltwater engines, patience always trumps brute force. You will get the studs out. If it doesn't come apart the first try, leave it and come back with a clearer head and try again. I really pride myself with not breaking bolts or housings to get something apart. Scotty will attest that our goal when tearing down his engines was to not to damage a thing even when pressed for time. Scott learned about corrosion, cleanliness, torque values, proper re-assembly, synchronizing, timing and lubrication and with one adjustment for a water pressure concern on the starboard engine; we put it in the water and nailed the throttles and he hasn't touched them since. The point is, we're here for you on this project so ask if you need help... this is the good stuff about Classic AS!

[gran398]

Have patience and good luck  

X2 what Dave said... when dealing with saltwater engines, patience always trumps brute force. You will get the studs out. If it doesn't come apart the first try, leave it and come back with a clearer head and try again. I really pride myself with not breaking bolts or housings to get something apart. Scotty will attest that our goal when tearing down his engines was to not to damage a thing even when pressed for time. Scott learned about corrosion, cleanliness, torque values, proper re-assembly, synchronizing, timing and lubrication and with one adjustment for a water pressure concern on the starboard engine; we put it in the water and nailed the throttles and he hasn't touched them since. The point is, we're here for you on this project so ask if you need help... this is the good stuff about Classic AS!

Amen to that! I learned A LOT in a relatively short period of time. I am very appreciative of the opportunity, and Farley's expertise, knowledge, patience, and ability. Thank you again my friend  

On the torch...and I did some heating under his supervision....you want to move the heat, bringing it up to temp evenly. We never got anything red hot.

It reminded me of torch work with jewelry. Every metal has a different melting point, and you want to avoid going there with an existing casting.

[redemn93]

well, messed with it a little more.  for those who know the mercs, the four, rear short studs are loose with some separation there.  the 4 long, center studs are stuck with no seperation.  just like the busted PH I removed from the new mid.  the 2 front studs should come free pretty easy once the rest is free.  I heated, pb blasted (didn't have time to get to the store for liquid wrench and don't want to use ATF and acetone yet since im using heat) and its now hanging from the cherry picker while bolted to the stand so theres extra weight pulling down there.  I think the driveshaft is also stuck.  loosened the 3 nuts and anode fin from the lower and it wont budge either.  

ill do a little more tomorrow.

[wingtime]

Another good trick is the bulk WD-40 mixed with ATF in a spray bottle.

Patience grass hopper.....

[dburr]

Patience grass hopper.....

   

When you can walk softly over rice paper and leave no mark....  

If I had a dollar for everything I've busted casue it had to get done NOW... I'd be sittin in tall cotton!

Only thing Okra ever said that was worth remembering, "lessons will repeat themselves until they are learned"..   Oh yeah, I heard that SECOND hand...

[gran398]

Patience grass hopper.....

   

When you can walk softly over rice paper and leave no mark....  

If I had a dollar for everything I've busted casue it had to get done NOW... I'd be sittin in tall cotton!

Only thing Okra ever said that was worth remembering, "lessons will repeat themselves until they are learned"..   Oh yeah, I heard that SECOND hand...

     

[redemn93]

you guys are awesome, really.

but im taking tonight off.  this dude just received his new wheels and tires for his truck.   :santa:   thats what i'll be working on tonight