1974 19-6 Restoration

[Capt. Bob]

I am looking at buying a trailer and boat (not an Aquasport) for the motor, trailer, and salvage parts. I'd like member input on this. Should I post as new topic or continue in this forum. Thanks :|

If this idea is to be used in your rebuild, you could leave it here but.....

A new thread will probably get you more response and and allow you to describe what your looking for and what you end up with. You then can then work it (if that is the intent of the purchase) back into this thread. I suggest you place the new thread in the Generic Rebuild Topics forum and let's see what happens.

Good luck.

[jfret]

It's been a long cold winter here in NC and it gave this newbie a lot of time to read some of the awesome rebuild threads in this forum.   I've been working pretty hard on the AS and the motor and the trailer for the last couple of months but the weather is crazy this year. Beautiful and 75 degrees for couple of days and then raining like crazy and in the 50's the next..... I've did get the majority of the foam in but was a quart or two low. I'm hoping to get the transom in soon but had to change plans. First off I wish I had cut the inside skin out of the transom and left the outside. Had to cut the inside skin out to make room for 2 3/4 plys. Could have saved a ton of time chiseling, grinding and...oh well. Cut the new transom and am ready to epoxy it in next week. Plan on not using the old skins....going to start fresh with new skins inside and out. The motor I'm planning on using has a 25 inch shaft....If this motor is a bust I will buy a new one. That's the plan.... hope it's the right one. One question that I have......If I have to buy a new motor should I go back to a 20" transom? What are the advantages-disadvantages?













The initial fitting had this large gap. More fitting to do.


 

[RickK]

So your plan has changed - man don't I know about that x100.
So what I think you may want to think about is laying a flat waxed melamine or Formica faced something that is smooth or semi smooth and waxed/PVA across the back of the transom and build a nice flat outer skin from the inside first.
Here's a couple of examples to browse through.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4582.0

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294  Look down a few pics and you'll see how he did it

I think you need to start, while you still have the chance,  with a nice flat transom tied into the inside of the boat and build up from the inside to the thickness of the outer thickness of what you left.  Measure the hull width the way you have the plywood cut, remove the plywood and secure the hull to the same width and then use what I was talking about above. Once you get a nice flat transom then you can use the plywood and get a solid transom.
I think you'll be happier with the results and it'll be flat and ready to fair.
Maybe Chris and Joel can help here on how they did it.

As for motors, are you going to use a jackplate or a lift (porta).  If so a 20" can be used effectively or a 25".
We have quite a few members that can help you better on that.  I bought a jackplate for my 170 because I didn't think through the engine mounting enough and my floor height ended up on a bolt  sooo....  I will mount the jackplate and then an extension (I have hydraulic steering so I need clearance for the cylinder) and then I can jack the motor up to 20" or whatever I need for the moment.

[jfret]

Thanks again Rick........Without CA and it's members I'd be up the creek. The tutorial on bateau2 is  the same situation, as mine.    I didn't want to cut the remainder of the outer transom off although that may be better. Looks like I'll have to cut the stringers back to allow more overlap? Although the post said 12" inches of overlap it looked more like 6" on the hull and 6 on the transom?  As for the jackplate....that's a possibility.They look awesome....do they enhance they performance as much as the appearance? Is is primarily for running shallow water? ...

[RickK]

The man that did the rebuild on Bateau is a long-time member here and also a Vendor here, maybe he'll stop in and give us his opinion on the way to go.
I just think it'll be more secure and a better finish if you do it from the inside and use epoxy for the strength since this is structural.  The nice thing is you still have the original outer skin at the corners. Who knows, Joel may say cut the skin off and start fresh - we'll find out.  We have rebuilds doing it both ways.

As for the Jackplate - not sure how "good" it will look but it was the way I had to go to fix an oops.  They do allow you to fine tune engine height for the situation you are in.

[Shine]

The overlaps are very important. 

Looks like I'll have to cut the stringers back to allow more overlap? Although the post said 12" inches of overlap it looked more like 6" on the hull and 6 on the transom?

I would cut them back 12".  If you cant, at least overlap the skin 12" up and go around the stringer.

Keep the lip of the old transom

[RickK]

I think you'll find you're going to have to cut back the liner also to do the overlaps.

[jfret]

10-4 on cutting back the liner and stringers to 12".....looks like I'm back to grinding.
 

[jfret]

Made some progress on the 196 over the last couple of weeks...once I got over the "day care disease" my grandson gave me..... got all the foam in and stringer caps cut and epoxied......got most of them in place. I poured the foam with open stringers....seemed to work OK Used about 20 cu/ft of foam. Didn't have any problems. I used 3/4 inch marine plywood on the caps and will top them off with a layer of 1708 over the entire stringer. Got most of the grinding and transom prep done, (cutting back the stringers and liner) and hope to get it going this weekend....progress is slow but it is progress. On a side note I did get the roller trailer converted to bunks and under the boat to check the fit. Pictures will be in the trailer forum. Also decided not to waste any time on the old Evinrude Oceanpro......decided to buy a new motor. Just got to decide what make/model.......

Here's a few pictures....

[Capt. Bob]

Lookin' good indeed!

[RickK]

Cooking on - looks GREAT!! 

Question.  Did you measure the width of the hull at the rear top before cutting out the transom?  I realize you have a lip around the outside but just to be sure the trailer doesn't deform the hull and change that measurement.

[jfret]

Question.  Did you measure the width of the hull at the rear top before cutting out the transom?  I realize you have a lip around the outside but just to be sure the trailer doesn't deform the hull and change that measurement.

Kinda....I didn't get a measurement prior to removing the core and exterior skin..... I measured and cut a 2x4 to the width at the top prior to removing the inside skin and used it to keep it from warping inward. Are there any records or factory documents with this information. I do have the exterior skin in one piece....I guess this could be useful.

[RickK]

Ok, so you have the 2x4. You should check and make sure that it still fits the way it did and secure it back onto the wood "nailer" at the top of the hull sides at the rear.  Until you get this all locked back together with a transom I think it would be a smart/safe thing to do.

[Shine]

Ok, so you have the 2x4. You should check and make sure that it still fits the way it did and secure it back onto the wood "nailer" at the top of the hull sides at the rear.  Until you get this all locked back together with a transom I think it would be a smart/safe thing to do.

100% agree.  On my flatback rebuild I used 3 or 4 2x4 (clamps) to hold things straight.

[jfret]

Question.  Did you measure the width of the hull at the rear top before cutting out the transom?  I realize you have a lip around the outside but just to be sure the trailer doesn't deform the hull and change that measurement.

Kinda....I didn't get a measurement prior to removing the core and exterior skin..... I measured and cut a 2x4 to the width at the top prior to removing the inside skin and used it to keep it from warping inward. Are there any records or factory documents with this information. I do have the exterior skin in one piece....I guess this could be useful.

Ok got to admit was little worried that I may have let the transom deform by not having a brace attached....The 2x4 I cut as a brace seemed to fit a little lower that it should so  I measured diagonally from chine to top of hull sides and the measurements were the same so at least the transom is symmetrical.....and I also found the template I used to cut the transom with and checked against that....it may have opened up at the top slightly.....I think I'll be OK, before I fasten on the melamine to layup the skin I will make sure it is square.



After a beer or 8 I had a vision of a simple coffin box. Went to the scrap pile and came up with this....simple enough yet should work...







Was thinking I would put a couple coats epoxy on all sides and maybe some cloth on the inside....the original box did not have a drain, which apparently isn't uncommon, but I've noticed most people opted for drains when restoring......got to say I'm getting a more motivated every day now.