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Author Topic: Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...  (Read 483 times)

May 25, 2013, 10:02:57 PM
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Joey

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Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...
« on: May 25, 2013, 10:02:57 PM »
Motor Details:  1987 Evinrude 120HP V4

So, I noticed today on my tilt and trim unit, the top of the shaft, I guess this is called a piston shaft, is an eyelet that is welded on the shaft that a pin goes through.  On mine, the eyelet is severely rusted.  I looked the part up online and it is obsolete.  But I found one in a store in Pinellas Park.

I would assume that I also need an o-ring kit, but my question is, has anyone out there done this?

How are is it?  What do I need to look out for, if anything?

Joe

May 26, 2013, 07:29:57 AM
Reply #1

Curious

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Re: Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2013, 07:29:57 AM »
Are you looking to replace the o-ring where the shaft goes into the tube?  I've never done it but there are a couple of threads on here if you search.  You have to get the weight of the motor stabilized and then get the pin at the top out, spanner wrench on the four holes at the top of the tube, etc.  I just had to do this on my 96 200 Yamaha.  I researched it a little and realized that it was a little above my level of ability so I sprayed PB Blaster on the top pin and in the 4 hole nut on top of the tube.  Let it soak, spray again, did that for a few days then brought it out to my mechanic.  He said it came apart no problem.  Most of the cost is labor in trying to get everything apart so you can probably save some money with the PB Blaster if you decide to have someone do the work.

Someone with more experience will chime in soon, in the meantime try to do a search.
Dan
1978 22 Family Fisherman
1996 Yamaha 200 SW Series

May 26, 2013, 07:58:10 AM
Reply #2

flounderpounder225

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Re: Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...
« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2013, 07:58:10 AM »
The only ugly part is if the top retaining nut (the part with the 4 holes in it) is seized in the cylinder, sometimes you can find an arbor  wrench from a power grinder that has the tabs on it in the same position as needed for the tilt cylinder.  As stated, start soaking it with PB blaster or similar, days before.  Once the retaining nut is off, pulling the piston and replacing the o rings is a straight FWD process.
Marc
1997 245 Osprey, 250 HPDI.  SOLD

May 26, 2013, 08:48:02 AM
Reply #3

Georgie

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Re: Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...
« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2013, 08:48:02 AM »
As Marc said, the cap screws at the top of the cylinder requires a specialty tool (spanner wrench) for proper removal.  When I was younger and dumber  8) , I tried every version of home-made tool solution for these cylinder cap screws only to bugger up all of them and make the job 150% tougher than it shold've been.  Once you buy the right size spanner wrench it's a cinch! (FYI the China-made cheap ones from Harbor Freight are NOT sufficient). Then you just replace the seals and reinstall in accordance with the manual.

That said, the tops of these T&T tilt pistons tended to rust frequently, but the rusted end itself retains plenty of strength and is little more than an eyesore until they rust all the way through to the plastic sleeve in the center.  There's usually no functional disadvantage to leaving it be, flaking off all loose rust that you can, and treating with naval jelly, ospho, or other rust treatment/converter to get back on the water and save a few bucks.  If you've already bought the piston though, then get or borrow the spanner wrench and have at it! :thumright:

If I can find the purchase confirmation from the spanner I bought a few years ago I'll add it to the thread.
Ryan

1979 246 CCC

1987 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman

May 26, 2013, 01:41:10 PM
Reply #4

icemanbryan

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Re: Evinrude 120 V4 Tilt and Trim question...
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2013, 01:41:10 PM »
Quote from: "Georgie"
As Marc said, the cap screws at the top of the cylinder requires a specialty tool (spanner wrench) for proper removal.  When I was younger and dumber  8) , I tried every version of home-made tool solution for these cylinder cap screws only to bugger up all of them and make the job 150% tougher than it shold've been.  Once you buy the right size spanner wrench it's a cinch! (FYI the China-made cheap ones from Harbor Freight are NOT sufficient). Then you just replace the seals and reinstall in accordance with the manual.

That said, the tops of these T&T tilt pistons tended to rust frequently, but the rusted end itself retains plenty of strength and is little more than an eyesore until they rust all the way through to the plastic sleeve in the center.  There's usually no functional disadvantage to leaving it be, flaking off all loose rust that you can, and treating with naval jelly, ospho, or other rust treatment/converter to get back on the water and save a few bucks.  If you've already bought the piston though, then get or borrow the spanner wrench and have at it! :thumright:

If I can find the purchase confirmation from the spanner I bought a few years ago I'll add it to the thread.

I bought one for my Yamaha through Sims I think?
With the tool it is very easy to do

 


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