1970 191 Gull Restoration

[CamRonMon]

Hello all!

I am a new Aquasport owner and new member.   This is actually only my second boat, but I am really excited to restore this thing.   I look forward to meeting you all and getting feedback on the project.

I posted some pics in my Member's Gallery area, I'm not sure how to link to them.   They are of how she sits right now in my warehouse yard.   Hull glass is solid, but the previous owner had started a re-deck job and never finished.   Thank God though, because when I pulled up the dry-rotted plywood there was nothing but foam blocks under there.   Almost all of the original structural glass was gone.

Let me know what you think!

[MrWesson]

Fellow 19-1 owner here.

I will be following this thread closely. Rare bird you got there and she will handle some choppy bay waters and reasonable seas.

Doesn't take much power to get her going.

Are you planning on making some modifications or just restoring the way it was making it solid?

[gran398]

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10343 (How to paste pics)

He cut out the stringers....guess in order to put in a tank. Check Rick's 170 rebuild going on now. Good luck with your build

[CamRonMon]

Thanks for pics!   I'll post direct next time.

I am planning on doing as high quality restoration as I can perform myself.   I don't plan on adding anything different than the original console and seat at this point, but you never know!   I started doing some glass-work yesterday, but won't be able to work on the boat again till next week.  

As to the motor selection, I do not have one yet, but am curious as to expected performance with particular HP/prop combos, any information you can provide regarding performance would be appreciated.

[MrWesson]

Some things to look at from a fellow 19-1 owner would be

Scupper location.. Will the motor bracket cover them(my OMC 140 does). If not great then you can install a flap or ping pong ball type to keep water out. They are also pretty wimpy in size. No simple solution here because if you relocate them to the outsides you still have a small well back there that wont drain.

Transom height... It doesn't take much to get water in the boat. My temp solution was splashguards(look ghetto but work). If I was doing a rebuild I would at least raise it and best option would be a bracket. The water over the transom may be less of an issue once scupper location is solved because while sitting still you are going to have them underwater and the water that comes in over the back wont go anywhere. EDIT Looking at your pics the transom is higher than mine so it may already have been raised.

If you need a new front casting deck I would look into access into the storage area from the top.. Its super annoying to have all that space and struggle to get to stuff under there.

My boat is nearing the point of a rebuild but I honestly dont think its the right boat for the area I am in but she works well for now.

My 94 2 stroke 140 pushes between 35-40MPH but is underpropped with a 15p prop. Neck snapping response and up to plane in no time though. What's your motor budget?

My transom for reference.

[CamRonMon]

Thanks for the info.   I am hoping for an early 2000's 2 stroke 150, but may end up going with a similar year 115.   I have about $3000-$3500 for an engine and controls, so I may be pushing the limit trying to find a later model year 150.

[MrWesson]

Thanks for the info.   I am hoping for an early 2000's 2 stroke 150, but may end up going with a similar year 115.   I have about $3000-$3500 for an engine and controls, so I may be pushing the limit trying to find a later model year 150.

I'd go for the 115 unless the 150 is similar in weight.

The boat was rated for around 120hp FWIW to you. Around here I could find a efi 115 no problem. I searched real quick and found a 90hp suzuki 4 stroke that would work well.

[gran398]

Guys, looking at your boat....A 90 hp anything would be all I'd put on it. The deadrise at the transom...if you could call it that...seems all of 8 degrees. It's right close to a miniature flatback

Plus, she's little for a 19. A 3 cyl. 90 Yamaha two-stroke that runs good and propped right would be a ball of fire on this ride, after she's dried out and rebuilt. Same goes for a 90 Tohatsu, another 3 cyl. quality product. Relatively unknown to the consumer, but famous with commercial fisherman.

It's a weight thing. Lighten her up back there...she'll self bail after the rebuild. And you're not dragging 100 pounds of extra weight every time out that will never be used. And... you'll save a ton on gas. This hull wasn't meant to run 40 plus....go light and lean, and she'll still run in the upper thirties WOT with the 90, correct stainless prop.

[CamRonMon]

OK so I have been getting some more work done on the hull.   I've been trying to get over to the yard she sits at a couple evenings a week after work.   I am almost done with the demo, but decided that while I had her ripped apart I should double check what seemed like a solid transom.   As I am sure most of you would assume it was complete crap!







The material was about 3/4" thick, probably why it gave the impression of being solid.   So most of it is out now and I was half-way through cleaning the plywood off when I got rained-out.   I'll post more pics once the transom is clean and ready for plywood.

I also got her on a trailer!

[gran398]

That is one pretty hull


Your transom issues are status quo for any seventies Aquasport. There are a ton of threads here regarding a quality transom rebuild.

Some boats can get away with just a transom rebuild. Due to their engineering, the CCP series is a great example.

The rest of us are not so fortunate. If you do the transom...bite the bullet, and examine the stringers and deck while she's opened up.

[dbiscayne]

check out page 2 of this thread on another 19-1,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8770&start=15

shows an issue I had with my 19-1.  Basically the foam provides a decent amount of strength in the original stringer layout.  Where the forward bulkhead crosses the longitudinal stringers theres a gap in the vertical wall of the longitudinal stringers.  Once my foam had deteriorated this allowed the hull to twist & flex, pivoting at that forward bulkhead.  I dug the foam out and continued the glass on the stringers to fill the gap.

[CamRonMon]

Ok so I got the transom glass all cleaned up and prepped here is the pic



I installed 3 sheets of 1/2" in individual layers, so basically bedded the first sheet with filler resin then plywood then chopped glass with a 18" lap onto the hull, plywood more glass and then the 3rd sheet of plywood.   I will be applying several layers over the final sheet but couldn't bring myself to finish it today.   The FL sun really kicked my butt with the first 3 layers so I threw in the towel.



Once this is done (hopefully Monday night, weather dependant)  I am waiting on delivery of my new fuel tank to start laying out the stringers.

[gran398]

You are smart to install the transom first. Sets the hull, makes for an easier rebuild.

The first plywood lasted forty years....the next should last longer. The key will be careful bedding of your transom drain....so in ten years will not leech water back up and into the higher portion of your transom.

Stringers....you have a myriad of options.

Great work thus far.

Keep posting

[dburr]

While you have it open you could cut a hole in your core where the drain is going to go, (don't go through the outer skin) and form an oversized chopped glass and resin plug that would later be drilled out for the drain tube.  That would ensure that no water would get in that way.  You can also use the same trick for the engine mounts and 'ducer mount...

[gran398]

While you have it open you could cut a hole in your core where the drain is going to go, (don't go through the outer skin) and form an oversized chopped glass and resin plug that would later be drilled out for the drain tube.  That would ensure that no water would get in that way.  You can also use the same trick for the engine mounts and 'ducer mount...

That is a great suggestion.