Blew a Head Gasket.....

[pzart]

Running across the lake crusin at about 32 mph when she starts losing power, I back off the throttle some and then she just stalls.....pop the hood and try to start her and see some water seeping out the head gaskets, no compression on that bank. When I get it home I pop the head, cylinders look good, no scaring or anything, just a little milky oil. I already had a head gasket set so I decided to pull the other head and do a thorough D&C..... broke two head bolts on the good side trying to get them loose.  One the head popped off and you can tell it had been partly broken before, probably during torquing, the other broke off at the block :evil: So now the excitement begins  

I quit working on the motor early sunday and went to bed, I HATE BREAKING HEAD BOLTS.....

I get up on Monday, check C/L and what shows up, my same exact motor, complete, including VRO Pump and Stainless Prop, 2 years newer, 115hp instead of the 110hp I have, has a rebuilt powerhead that is frozen from sitting 5 years. The guy wants 499 bucks, hmmmmmmm......this is a sign from above that my head bolt issue is going to be just fine. Why else would a exact parts motor show up....called the guy, went and saw the motor, got the flywheel to move a little with a screwdriver when he wasn't looking, bought it for 300. I am happy with my 110 evinrude again  :)

[Georgie]

So what is the plan with the two engines then?  Use the CL purchase for parts, drill/tap the broken bolts on your existing engine?  Rebuild the CL one since you were able to get it to move?  Please elaborate!    I have a gazillion head bolts for that engine if you just need the parts that you broke.   Drilling and tapping those bolts freehand in an aluminum block is NOT a fun chore, bro.  Good luck.  

[pzart]

 Please elaborate!    I have a gazillion head bolts for that engine if you just need the parts that you broke.  

Yes I need head bolts, 4 would be great, did you ever talk to your dad about his Teak anchor door in the front bow? I have payPal, let me know how much I owe ya.


I plan on fixing my head bolt issue, I have done it before by using the head as a guide to drill er out. Bolt the head on temporarily and use the bolt hole in the head as a guide. then after I get her running, slowly get the 115 I just bought running good and maybe sell it, not very often you come across a complete motor for that price, I see the trim units sell for that much. If its as good as the one PO says, I might be able to put duals on my 170       just kidding.....but I will know soon enough.....I just hope I can get all this done before the GATHERING :pirat:

[pzart]

update:

the bank that blew the head gasket, looks good, cleaning the parts should have that bank back together by the weekend.....

the bank that wasn't blown but I decided to remove that head and clean everything up....

needs a new head.....I screwed it up removing it with the problem 3 bolts

needs a helicoil for one of the bolts..... got the old bolt out tonight probably put the helicoil in on wed. night.

Now I need to hunt for a head, but, should be a great runner when I get done

Water jackets and cylinders look great on this motor

[wingtime]

Its too late now but I would have suggested welding a nut on the broken bolts to get them out. The nut allows you to get a wrench on it and the heat from the welding helps free up the threads...... Sometimes.

[Georgie]

What side head?  I probably have one to go along with the bolts (presuming a used one is ok with you).  

Couple random comments (and you may know all this stuff already), but when you reinstall, don't use a wire wheel on the threads of the head bolts to clean them off.  Soak in mineral spirits and use nylon or brass bristle brush, or even better use the correct size die to trace the threads.  Wire wheel rounds off the threads too much, increases the likelihood of stripping the block, and screws up torque specs b/c the cleaned bolts no longer have the same holding power.  Also, if you are not going to have a machine shop true the heads that you'll be reusing, make sure you hone them on a piece of plate glass w/medium grit sandpaper (double stick tape works pretty well) until pretty much all of the old blemishes and gasket material are gone to make sure you have a clean and flat mating surface.  Block side make sure to remove all gasket material as well.  You don't want a repeat of the same problem for sure!

No, haven't talked my father yet.  It's been a bit hard to get him to focus lately.  Red Sox baseball has started.    Worst case scenario I'll be there the weekend of May 11th for my younger brother's graduation and will bring it back home to FL with me if he doesn't need/want it.

[pzart]

What side head?  I probably have one to go along with the bolts (presuming a used one is ok with you).  

Couple random comments (and you may know all this stuff already), but when you reinstall, don't use a wire wheel on the threads of the head bolts to clean them off.  Soak in mineral spirits and use nylon or brass bristle brush, or even better use the correct size die to trace the threads.  Wire wheel rounds off the threads too much, increases the likelihood of stripping the block, and screws up torque specs b/c the cleaned bolts no longer have the same holding power.  Also, if you are not going to have a machine shop true the heads that you'll be reusing, make sure you hone them on a piece of plate glass w/medium grit sandpaper (double stick tape works pretty well) until pretty much all of the old blemishes and gasket material are gone to make sure you have a clean and flat mating surface.  Block side make sure to remove all gasket material as well.  You don't want a repeat of the same problem for sure!

No, haven't talked my father yet.  It's been a bit hard to get him to focus lately.  Red Sox baseball has started.    Worst case scenario I'll be there the weekend of May 11th for my younger brother's graduation and will bring it back home to FL with me if he doesn't need/want it.

thanks for the info Georgie, I will do that, no worries about giving your comments and experience, I may have already knew it or not, but there are alot of people reading these threads that could use all our experiences and knowledge. IMO, thats why we hang out here ......

Starter side, (Port) is the head thats bad, (and yes, used is right up my alley) :)  I will PM you my address

I used a 5/16 tap to clean all threads on the block and will use a die on the bolts, comments on anti seize with these aluminum blocks....yea or nay, I can't remember, wonder if its in the manual.

[pzart]

Interesting, after talking to the old evinrude dealer here, seems that my 1989 110hp and the 1991 115 hp motor I just bought are the old 1984 and prior 140 hp engines. they changed from Crankshaft HP to Prop HP in 85 which made the old 140hp engine the new 110hp GREAT....now my 1975 170AS has to big a motor on it ....now I am a outlaw again :pirat:  :pirat:

[pzart]

Installed heli coil last night, went smooth, everything seems to be going well with this repair. :)

[RickK]

8)

[pzart]

Installed the Head last night that blew the head gasket, did a compression test on that bank, 95 cold changing the thermostats out while I wait for the other head, boy were they 63 bucks at the dealer for 2 new therms, 2 gaskets, one plastic bypass valve.... things are going very well with this repair.....knocking on teak....

[pzart]

I have the Evinrude CrossFlow Bubble Back motor.....real pain to replace thermostats. Below is the process and some pics.

Process

1 Need lots of patience and  

2 Need 12 point 7/16 wrench, 1/4 drive 7/16 wobble socket, clear adhesive permatex  

3 Have the manual for exploded view of parts (it will fly apart when you finnally get all the screws loose spring loaded)

4  No matter how frustrated you get, don't use  :bom:

5 Remove Plastic lower mid-section cover thats under lower cowling

6 Loosen but don't remove 4 bolts that hold lower cowling to power head(so you can tilt lower cowling down in the back to access bolts from above and below)

7 Unbolt lower coil pack from left side and pull all wiring up out of way to create path to pull thermostat housing out and reinstall.(left side is standing behind motor looking at it)

8 Remove 3 bolts holding housing

9 After prepping all parts, pre-assemble Therm Housing and therm block, thermostats and gaskets with the clear adhesive permatex, you don't need a lot, then clamp them in place so bolts are not bound up.(see pics)

10 Let dry for a couple hours clamped, make sure nothing moves and bolts are free to slide.

11 After housing is basically glued together, install bypass valves in housing and wire tie them in place so they don't move (see pics)

12 Install Springs in Power head, put small amount of sealer on block surface.

13 Install thermostat housing from left side of bubble back(see pics) as you slide it in place you can use your fingers to place springs onto valves

14 This step is where your patience will be tested to the max :evil:  :evil: you somehow have to hold the housing close to the block and get a bolt started, once you get one bolt started( mine was the right side bolt) you are home free

15 Tighten all bolts up and install all covers and hoses and your  8) again.


Assembled with ties holding valves in place


View from above with springs installed


View from below with springs installed


Installing assembled housing from left side

[Georgie]

Good stuff Paul.  I actually did mine almost the exact same way recently.  Had been running for a few years without T-stats at all, but she can't get to proper operating temp at idle with no stats and with my 1.5 hr put-put trip up the river from my new place I figured it's best to tune her properly for extended idling.  You'd be surprised how many people use the  :bom: approach and just cut round holes in the lower cowl.  I've never understood that butchering of the cowl as long a you have the REAL expensive $8 universal adapter for the 1/4 socket, but to each his own I guess.  Nice account of what is generally considered a PITA repair.  Now try doing that same project with corroded/frozen bolts!  

Head parts come yet?  Oh yeah, and I wish I'd known about your T-stat issues earlier. I had all those parts you needed for that project just stuck in bin.   :(

[pzart]

Head parts come yet?  

Got them today, I will be tearing that box apart tonight, hopefully have her installed by morning, thanks a bunch Georgie  

Had my center bolt on the thermostat housing almost frozen, came real hard but threads cleaned up good on bolt and powerhead 8)

[pzart]

She's purrrrring like a LION   thanks Georgie for the parts, send you a thank you card shortly. My friend came over and helped me knock this out tonight, 95 psi on all cyl cold   .....we will be putting her on the lake tomorrow, weather permitting, to give her a good test and then retorque the heads. Then the  :pirat:  :pirat: GATHERING :pirat:  :pirat: