Fuel Gauge/Sender Question

[daniel123]

Still no readings (see new post in Rebuilds forum). WEMA sender has been tested and it's working voltage-wise, but not registering on the gauge and am ready to try a new gauge. Any advice?

[Capt. Bob]

Still no readings (see new post in Rebuilds forum). WEMA sender has been tested and it's working voltage-wise, but not registering on the gauge and am ready to try a new gauge. Any advice?

Sorry about my confusion but you're all over the place and it's difficult to follow.

You posted this.
One hang-up to the project is the fuel gauge, which when hooked to the brand new WEMA float still shows full when the key is on. We grounded it and then even removed the sender and slid the float up and down to test it and the gauge just stays pegged on full on the dash

Help me please.

Key off, fuel gauge reads empty, correct??
When you turn on the key, the fuel gauge pegs full, correct??

If so, the gauge is working. The sender creates resistance to that electrical flow via the sender wire. Higher when empty, lower when full (I think that's correct).

Is the sender wire from the tank to the gauge in good condition and,
Is the sender properly grounded?

[daniel123]

I'm deep into my 1999 Osprey 20 fuel system replacement project and my electrician buddy tells me that my new (last fall) WEMA sender, which he just pulled out of the tank for the second time to check out, is offering the right voltage to be triggering the fuel gauge on the new-to-me Osprey dash panel I got in as-new condition from the FLA salvage yard that is popular with members of this site. I have no reason to think the gauge is broken, but with the WEMA sending being new last fall, and my buddy saying that it's getting juice to the gauge and the gauge appears to be trying to register a fuel level, that I need to try a new gauge. So, is there a standard gauge that A'sport used that would match the others? Any other advice anyone can share is welcome!

Thanks!

Here's a photo of the gauge that may be broken and I want to try to match with a new one. Any ideas or sources?

Well, can't re-size it small enough (max 100 pix high is a bit conservative!), so I'll try to post in my gallery...

[Capt. Bob]

Dan,
I combined your two posts from two different threads. Let's keep this problem under this thread.

Next, please use the Photo Gallery to post your pics. You can place your photo in the gallery (no size limit that I have encountered)
and then post to the thread. The gallery will re-size the photo to fit.

"How to" gallery directions are pinned in most forums and are scattered in an uncountable number of threads throughout the Forum. It's quite simple and while I mean no offense to a certain "formerly photo challenged" member of this Forum, even he has posted a dissertation on the ease of its use.

Good luck.

[daniel123]

Thanks, Bob. You're gonna have to move another post then, which I just posted in the Electronics forum because I thought that was the right place for it: Do I need a WEMA gauge to match a WEMA sender? If so, THAT could be the problem!

[daniel123]

Based on advice read here, we removed a swing-arm style and replaced it with a WEMA sender in our 1999 Osprey's fuel tank, and are trying to make it work with a stock AS fuel gauge -- that was probably hooked up to/designed for use with a swing arm style sender. Do we need a special (WEMA?) gauge made for an electronic WEMA-style sender in order for the gauge to work? Ours just pegs at FULL and never varies when we turn the key.

[seabob4]

No, you can use your standard gauge.  WEMA wiring instructions say, oddly enough, pink off the sender to ground, black to the gauge ("S" position).  I've been installing WEMAs for years (we used them both at Stamas and at PL), always wired pink to pink, black to black.

You can swap leads and see if that brings the needle down to where you think the fuel level is.  I just installed (2) new WEMAs on the Glacier Bay, when I pulled the old senders, the tanks were both almost slap full (owner was pleased!!!).  Stabbed the tanks to get the depth, ordered the WEMAs, got them in, installed them in my traditional manner...and both gauges read just under full...

[daniel123]

Not sure what to do now. I ordered a new WEMA gauge yesterday because I thought that was what I needed, since the WEMA sender tests fine. But the fuel gauge in the dash can be used with the WEMA and is apparently good, based on what I read here: that if it goes to Full when the key is on, that means the gauge is fine. I'm not sure what else I can test/do...I guess I take the new WEMA gauge and hook it up and see if we get a reading.

[seabob4]

The way we check senders for function is to touch the ground to the sending wire, which is the highest level of resistance.  That's why the gauge will peg to full (the gauge measures resistance to ground).  So these are the 2 steps you need to take.  Verify on the purple wire (ignition power) that you have 12V when the key is in the run position.  This will tell you that the gauge is getting power.  The sender does not function as a measure of voltage, but the fuel gauge is an electric gauge, hence it needs power.

Next verify that you have a "good" ground at the sender.  Test for continuity between the sender ground and a known "good" ground (ground bus bar or neg batt term).  Another thing I would do is test for continuity on the pink wire, from the back of the gauge to the sender...

One more thing.  Ensure the gauge is wired correctly.  There are 3 posts on the backside, labeled S, I, and G.  Purple wire to I, pink wire to S, black wire to G.  Do NOT mix up purple and pink, as this can render the sender useless...

[Bergertime]

Just wanted to add my two cents.. really one cent.   I replaced the stock sender in my 98 Osprey with a WEMA and it works great with the stock AQ fuel guage.  No additional work needed other than attaching the wires.  Good Luck!

B

[seabob4]

As I stated earlier, I've used WEMA senders with EVERYONE'S gauges!  Teleflex, Faria, and the electronic ones, Smartcraft, Suzuki SMIS, and BRP I-Command.  Never an issue...

[Capt. Bob]

Daniel,
My last input.

Please go back to the beginning of this thread that you started and re-read each post. Note the same reoccurring suggestions for troubleshooting and look closely at the supplied photos. I think you will find that the wiring you are describing may be your problem, be it on the back of the gauge or defective between the gauge and sender.

It could very well be a defective sender or gauge but I'd bet (not much though ) that the root of your troubles lies within the wiring. Also, look closely at your gauge face. It should have little "pegs" that delineates the full travel of the needle itself. These "pegs" are usually beyond the full and empty markings on the gauge face. In an earlier post in this thread I asked if the gauge "pegs" when the key is turned on. This is what I was referring to. The sender creates the resistance (as SB and others stated) that makes the needle "measure" within the marked area. Without that resistance present, the needle will (when new anyway) rest on the peg. Key off (no power to gauge, no resistance needed) Key on (power to gauge, no resistance from sender, gauge pegs past full).

Simple concept but sometimes hard to visualize.

Lastly, if you pull out your new panel or if you can see the back of the gauge as is, please post a photo, in this thread.

Good luck.

[daniel123]

Thanks for all the input, guys. I got the new gauge from WEMA today and will tackle the project tomorrow and will fill you in -- and take photos.

Dan

[wingtime]

Maybe I have missed it somewhere in this long thread.  From what I have gleaned you turn on your key and the gauge reads full all the time. With the key on I would disconnect the pink sender wire from the sender and see what the gauge does.  If the wiring is right and the gauge is not faulty it should drop to empty.  If it does do that touch it to ground and it should peg to Full.  If that checks out than your gauge and the wiring between the sender and the gauge are OK.

[daniel123]

I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks!

Dan