Possible outboards for my Osprey VIDEO IS UPLOADED!!!!!

[gran398]

You can always change the decals

[icemanbryan]

You can always change the decals

I did think about that as well.
I did notice a small section of the cowling being broken out, Might need to paint the unit anyway.
New decals might be in order

Yes, thanks for moving.
If there is a derail award, I believe I am at or near the top, yeah?
I can assure you, it is not in spite, just bad upbringing  

[gran398]

You can always change the decals

I did think about that as well.
I did notice a small section of the cowling being broken out, Might need to paint the unit anyway.
New decals might be in order

Yes, thanks for moving.
If there is a derail award, I believe I am at or near the top, yeah?
I can assure you, it is not in spite, just bad upbringing  

Have you had any PM's regarding derails?

Then you are not near the top

[icemanbryan]

No pm's for derails, yet.
It really is not entirely my fault, when someone say's something close to what I was thinking, I chime in.
It will usually get back on track in a post or two.
I don't know, my opinion, it covers more of the same questions, in gereral.

[dburr]

I found the following at:
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12144

I checked the CFR, made it to the second paragraph, then woke up 15 minutes later     .  

This is way easier to read.. If my math is right, new decals are in order.. :cry:  :cry:


Hopefully this guide will help you calculate the maximum amount of H.P. your boat can be insured for.

- This is to only be used as a guide.
- You can round your final HP number to the closest multiple of 5. (31 HP would round to 30 HP. 33 HP would round to 35 HP)

Step One - Compute your Factor

A. Length of Boat x Transom Width (measure in feet: 14, 15.5,16, etc).

Step Two - Compare your factor to H.P. rating

A. 0-35 = 3 hp
B. 36-39 = 5 hp
C. 40-42 = 7.5 hp
D. 43-45 = 10 hp
E. 46-52 = 15 hp

Step Three - If your factor is over 52 (Choose only A or B)

A. With Remote Steering (steering wheel) and at least 20" transom height

Maximum HP = (Your factor x 2) - 90

Example: 19' 6" long , 7 feet wide = (19.5 x 7 x 2) - 90 = 183 (Round up in multiples of 5. This boat's max is 185 hp).

B. With Tiller Steering (hand or extension) or less than 20" transom height (Choose only 1 or 2)

1. Flat bottom, or hard chined boats (hull has hard angles)

Max HP = (Your factor x 0.5) - 15

2. Soft chine, rounded hulls

Max HP = (Your factor x 0.8 ) - 25.  


Conclusion

I hope this has helped you all who are looking for max hp ratings. If your boat is insured, make sure to check with your insurance company for any restrictions.

This guide was found at NewBoatBuilders, which was ultimately used from "Title 33-Code of Federal Regulations-Subpart 183.53".

[icemanbryan]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it

[dburr]

My pleasure sir! Those CFR's are as dry as a covered bridge.. I needed a nap anyway!  
%#@&$ Gubmintlawercrat writers will put Tylenol PM out of business!

[dburr]

Further thought... If you do go this route and you have an "engine guy" make sure he is cool with it too..  I was going to swap power heads on a late 80's Merc 70 that is on a Sport 15 Whaler and turn it into a 90.. The guys at the yard were all about helping ME do it but said they wouldn't touch it or the boat afterwards.. It was all about their liability and the horsepower rating...

Best of luck!

[icemanbryan]

Well, it is with regret that I say the motors didnt work out for me.
The CR is great, not a sound out of it.
The reg motor has a knock, there is a video that Lewis will post on THT.
It does sounds like it could be a wrist pin or a rod.
A few mechanics who listened to the video think rod or wrist pin  
One person thinks the air box is knocking?  

I do not feel comfortable to buy the one for anything other than needing a rebuild.
I did offer 3000.00 he did refuse and said he does not think anything is wrong with them.
(Even though he has never ran them and only heard them run once).
Lewis was nice enough to get them running, Chipper is a great guy and I really hope it works out for him in the long run.
 Chipper just does not think it is a bad problem, in hearing the sound. I do think it is a rod or a wrist pin.
It may be able to be repaired.  I need to caution on the side of a powerhead.
After buying them, I would need to ship them to me,
buy a powerhead,
have it installed
or
possibly rebuild the existing powerhead
(If it is the rod or wrist pin and it is rebuildable).
do the carbs (12) (New kits)
A complete service on them
New thermostats
New props
New throttle cables, existing ones are too long
Lower end oil

There is a list of what should be done sitting that long.
I really just dont see any way to make it work other than the one motor being sold as a parts motor needing a rebuild?

[RickK]

Lewis was nice enough to get them running

I think Lewis deserves a great big public thank you for his efforts, you think Bryan?  That was a big deal not many people would have done for a relative stranger.
My $.02

[Capt. Bob]

That damn Lewis.
He'd walk a mile for a camel.
And not the kind you smoke.

Atta Boy Lew.

[icemanbryan]

Rick, you are 100% correct.

Lewis, I cant thank you enough for doing this for me.
I really appreciate it.
I really enjoyed speaking to you the last couple of weeks.
You are a true friend, I hope I can repay the favor somehow.

[slvrlng]

OK, sorry for the delay, but I haven't been around my computer for a few days. For the more mechanically inclined among us please listen to the 2 videos that follow and post back what you think. I uploaded them from my phone and was unable to post the links before. The first one is the CR 175 and it seems to be fine except for a gasket leak around the fuel pump. The second video is the standard rotation one and if you listen closely you can hear a "tapping" noise that seems to emanate from somewhere in the powerhead. I did not try to locate it exactly because I did not want to damage anything internally if it is indeed something internal. Thanks for any and all opinions! I know Bryan does!

CR one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o

Standard rotation one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A

[icemanbryan]

OK, sorry for the delay, but I haven't been around my computer for a few days. For the more mechanically inclined among us please listen to the 2 videos that follow and post back what you think. I uploaded them from my phone and was unable to post the links before. The first one is the CR 175 and it seems to be fine except for a gasket leak around the fuel pump. The second video is the standard rotation one and if you listen closely you can hear a "tapping" noise that seems to emanate from somewhere in the powerhead. I did not try to locate it exactly because I did not want to damage anything internally if it is indeed something internal. Thanks for any and all opinions! I know Bryan does!

CR one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o

Standard rotation one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A

Lewis, you are the man!
Thanks so much, I really appreciate all you have done for me.
I spoke to "Chipper" and we may have an agreement??
He wants to think about it overnight, I will let you guys know once I do!

[fitz73222]

Lew,
I really can't hear the engine noise as you describe; not to say it's not there, I just can't hear it with distinction. Now the quick way to check for wrist pin or rod  bearing issues is to remove all the spark plugs and preferably the lower unit to eliminate water pump drag and roll the engine over by hand and feel for the clearance by getting the each piston to TDC and just roll it just an RCH (or the color of your choice) past TDC and take a Phillips screwdriver and push on the piston through the spark plug hole and try to feel the clunk when you re-load the bearing against the internal clearance.  It's redneck but it works. Looking at the headgasket joints, these engines are really clean or the heads have been off, or they've never seen salt. If I was within reasonable traveling distance,I would go listen to them but its not practical for me plus I don't like making used engine acquisition decisions for someone 3000 miles away. So my decision would be to add $3000 to whatever the negotiated purchase price is and calculate if its still a good deal considering the price of new engines minus what Bryan could sell his 250 Yami for. The time to go inside the engine and look around before it blows up is now, before it damages other components. I would negotiate the engine noise if its real and allow for it.
My $1.385