78 22 FF New Gas Tank Install

[Capt. Bob]

I'd bet you find that in half that time removal will not be as hard as one thinks.
Like everything else, 5200 has a usable lifetime.

[Georgie]

 

Worst case scenario you distribute the weight of the whole tank throughout the perimeter of the box near the corners where the glass is strongest even if the bonding and support in the center doesn't work.  You can use some extra 5200 in the center to help bridge some of the gap.

Just consider this tank replacement a "permanent" repair.  

[gman6864]

I just started my tank replacement yesterday. I have a 1978 19-6 ff. Not too bad. Should have started in November also. Got most of the foam out and I am going finish up today. I was pleased that the wet smelly foam came out so easily. I've been a carpenter for 30 years and have the tools and the ability, but no experience. Not to worry because now I have all you guys. Thank goodness for Classic Aquasport.com. Photos and progress to follow. Tom.

[fishinonthebrain]

I had just pulled my tank on a 87CCP and the bottom of the tank was not flat but broke in to three segments. It followed the sagging compartment just fine.  

I need to raise it off the compartment floor like you have though to get some air flow.

[Capt. Bob]

I just started my tank replacement yesterday. Photos and progress to follow. Tom.

Very good Tom.

Please start a new thread in this forum on your replacement. Photos are always appreciated and as always,

Good luck.

[gman6864]

Tank is out and the foam is in a dumpster. Now to get a tank. Already made some calls. Have a few ideas about securing it down. I might use the old aluminum strap system(make new ones) in addition to some other means. As far as the bottom, what about a rubber mat with holes, like the type they use in resturants and behind bars. I wonder if the moisture will drain??? It's gotta be better than that foam and the tank lasted 35 years with out a drain hole. Also, I will have to figure out how to start a new thread.

[Georgie]

Tom....see that "new topic" button on the top or bottom left of the screen?   Give it a shot.



I'd nix the barmat thing. Sure, "water" would drain fine, but "moisture" would be caught in the many contact points where the tank sits on the mat.  Aluminum straps can be reused for sure.  Just make yourself some starboard chocks or spacers for the corners and 5200 those to the tank before tightening the straps.  Prevents any moisture from being trapped between the strap and the tank.  Taking into account known ways to reduce electrolysis and wear, many of us here will recommend you otherwise follow Curious' approach which is based on the "Pascoe" method.  Replaced my father's 170 tank the same way, though I used a single flap of rubber from a bike tire to prevent wear between the straps and tank and forgot to 5200 to tank...starting to regret that now that I realize the small rubber pieces will definitely hold some moisture.  That's the entire reason that I haven't posted a thread for his tank replacement.  

[Curious]

Pascoe method:

www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

[Curious]

gman,
Mine was sitting in smelly, saturated foam.  The old tank has really bad pitting in several spots.  I'm not sure if it was leaking yet but it was only a matter of time.

I strongly recommend Luther's Welding in Bristol, RI, www.lutherswelding.com.  They did my tank and they had the best price in the area.  There was another place that I had called on Long Island, but I can't remember the name.

[Curious]

broke in to three segments

What do you mean broke in to three segments?

[fishinonthebrain]

broke in to three segments

What do you mean broke in to three segments?

I will take a picture for you tomorrow and post.

[gman6864]

Tom....see that "new topic" button on the top or bottom left of the screen?   Give it a shot.



I'd nix the barmat thing. Sure, "water" would drain fine, but "moisture" would be caught in the many contact points where the tank sits on the mat.  Aluminum straps can be reused for sure.  Just make yourself some starboard chocks or spacers for the corners and 5200 those to the tank before tightening the straps.  Prevents any moisture from being trapped between the strap and the tank.  Taking into account known ways to reduce electrolysis and wear, many of us here will recommend you otherwise follow Curious' approach which is based on the "Pascoe" method.  Replaced my father's 170 tank the same way, though I used a single flap of rubber from a bike tire to prevent wear between the straps and tank and forgot to 5200 to tank...starting to regret that now that I realize the small rubber pieces will definitely hold some moisture.  That's the entire reason that I haven't posted a thread for his tank replacement.  

[gman6864]

About the mat, I thought so. I will probably use some rainbow , which is a soft but dense rubber gasket material the plumbers use between the chocks and the strap. Also, is Azak ok to use instead of star board? Azak being that outdoor facia/trim material. Should work as well. As for my tank leaking, it had a few holes on the top and a lot of pitting around all the fittings. What was amazing was that under the foam the tank looked great. Doesn't matter, new engine, 35 year old tank=new tank. I'll give the guy in RI a call. gman

[Curious]

I looked at Azek at Home Depot.  It is PVC which should work no problem.  The only reason I didn't use it is because my tank coffin is deep in front but shallow in the rear.  I finally figured out that this is the result of the self draining deck being angled slightly towards the stern.  At any rate, there is very little room in the rear of the tank coffin, especially since I had Luther's add 4 mounting tabs to the sides of the tank and Azek doesn't go any thinner than 3/4.  So I went with 1/4 inch lattice material I picked up at Lowes for 5 bucks per 8' length.  Others on here have used starboard but there are ingredients in starboard that interfere with the adhesion of the 5200.  There may be ways to make it work but I didn't want to chance it plus you can't beat 5 bucks apiece at Lowes.  The other alternative was FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) strips from McMaster/Mann at over $100.  Probably would have been the best material to use, but again I defaulted to what my wallet would allow.  My strips/5200 have cured and they are not going ANYWHERE.  So if you have the space I would try Azek and just rough up the tank surface and the Azek surface really well.  I used 80 or 100 grit I think.  Weighted it down, let it sit for the 7 day cure time of the 5200 and its SOLID!  

By the way, prior to this project (and my transom project last year) I had no idea how to do any of this but I just did a ton of research on here and cross checked it a little on other sites and all of a sudden I'm an expert....(just kidding).  And I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

[Curious]

gman,
Here's the other one I mentioned:


http://www.alloymetalworks.com/

They are in Farmingdale on LI.  I never got in touch with them due to distance but I did leave a message and they returned my call the next day.  I went with Luther's in Bristol, RI because I could drive there and pick it up to save on shipping.  I can tell you that Luther's was the best price I could find in the Cape Cod/South Coast of Massachusetts area and he and his crew are true, old school professionals.  The real deal.  They had the plans for my exact tank because they had already built one and they were very receptive to allowing me to be part of the planning process when I decided to change a couple of things such as fitting placement. They would make the change, then email me the drawings for my approval.  I did initially send them photos of the old tank with tape measure in place to help them with positioning but come to find out they already had a drawing for the tank.