Miss Delmarva 1973 22-2 Rebuild Low Cholesterol Version

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Bilge work. Un-plumb everything to make room for the removal of Flo-Jet wash down/ install of Shur-flo Extreme.  



Wiring the pumps, wash down, live well, and bilge.  All the wiring runs are secured on the underside of the cockpit sole...





So when you open the hatch, this is what you see...



No sagging wires or bundles, nothing hanging down or getting in the way, just wide open bilge.

Bus bar in starboard box.



Fuel/water separators...



Inlets and outlets on the same side.  I plan on routing the 2 outlets (the inboard one over top the outboard separator) to the liner, then aft, then back inboard to the rigging ports.  This will keep the starboard box from just being filled with fuel lines, not to mention all the rigging for the motors.  
I didn't go with the "clear bowl" type separators, they don't fit.  Too tall.

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Scott's gauges



New transducer and a new SS red/white dome light.

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Mod Edit/Error: Unfortunately, I left this next series of photos out of the thread because they were posted elsewhere. Still they are a valuable addition to this thread and as such are added here. Chronologically, they occurred prior to the "tuning" photos below so they are in the right spot of the thread. Photo credits to Scott (gran398) and Farley(Fitz).
Enjoy.

Fitz did a tremendous job on the 75 Mercs. He taught me a lot too, and I'm very appreciative.
THANKS Farley  
I thought I'd share what was accomplished. What really impressed me was the organization of parts, cleanliness of the work area, and processes. Nothing was ever "forced" or beat on.

Here are a few pics to start:







Fellas, Farley began my apprenticeship showing the proper technique to remove old gaskets. My first job was "Gasket Scraper."
Then I moved up to Torch Man. Finally, I was a Torque Wrench Man.
He did a helluva job.

More pics in chronological order:







This is my first assignment



After 12 hours of heartache....both LU's off



Farley showing his appreciation



Carb rebuilds:





Port side LU, prepping for Bay Manufacturing 5" extension kit:



Hoods, midsection covers:



The heat is on...breaking corrosion on original water pump housing:



The reason for scheduled  LU maintenance:



To the right are two circular areas. These are bolts encrusted with salt. All bolts were dug out clean with a picking tool, air-blasted, and sprayed with WD-40:



After excavation... and rebuild....fresh water pump and housing, ready for install:



Prepping for the LU extension kit install:





Changing thermostat



Installing longer LU studs



Mounting powerheads





Jackleg installed linkage, port side



Starboard side


Had a great visit from Farley this morn, always a pleasure.  Helped as best I could, but he really had only some minor tweaking to do while the motors ran on the muffs...





The end result was 2 very happy motors running excellently, settling into there characteristic 2-stroke shimmy at idle.  

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Scott's horn grill and horns in the ebox upstairs...





Here's Scott's batt switch box, Southco slam latch.





Switch layout. Once again, box secured from the back side so no exposed fasteners.



This is what I'm thinking as far as helm layout.  Trim/Tilt upper right, key switches below that, kill switches on vertical face below key switches, then switch/breaker panel to the left.

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Battery box installed, rear attachment allows no visible fasteners





Starting inside the console wiring.



Rigger built:Custom little main breaker/fuse holder enclosure...



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Console wiring continued



Note proper plugs and elbows on the helm pump.




Perko LED anchor light, properly centered.



VHF antenna mount. Note Rigger installed hole for wiring access, mounting connectors drilled/tapped. Elimination of thru-bolts resulting in super clean install.  



View of bottom.

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Engine rigging. This is all temporary, as nothing is hooked up, just laying there under the cowling...



Hardover to starboard, which is the biggest strain on Mercs that have the cables entering on the port side...

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Kill switches in today, ignition switch bezels



Have to get a couple washers (cylinder was missing them) before I snug things up...

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Alright, split loom is gone, did my best with the 2 engine harnesses, got the trim and tilt leads routed and secured to where they're gonna tie in to the TNT panel...



The neutral safety wires you see there, they'll wait until the binnacle is in...which will be the last thing that gets installed in the console.  All leads, speaker wires, ducer cable, everything, run up to the side of the electronics box, basically waiting on the box to finish that off...



Even got the compass backlighting and the nav lights (the lone rangers on the other side of the console!) all routed and terminated...



In short, console is basically done save for the switch/breaker panel TNT switch panel.  

Interesting little fact.  The under gunnel speakers will be, as the crow flies, about 3' from the stereo.  The amount of speaker wire I ran?  30' for starboard, 40' for port.

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Aluminum fuel tank.  Stainless fuel fill.  NO BONDING WIRES!!!  Tab welded to the tank for the bond wire, but no wire.  That is relatively easy.  But will I be able to snake a cable or whatever to the fill to run a bond wire?

Well, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

No way was I going to be able to snake a bond wire forward from the tank...but, from looking at the pics, I should have a straight shot aft from the pass through where the hoses enter that forward compartment...and I did!  And I have a ground bus back there!  









All tied together in a bit of a round about way.

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All is happy in Tie Bar world!!





The issue we faced was that the tie bar was in REAL close proximity to the cylinder, and, for those of you that have twins know, as the motors start to get close to hardover, the cylinder rotates up...clearance issues bigtime.  Stupid me had basically forgotten all about what we USED to use before Teleflex redesigned the tie bar and attachment points, we called them adapters back in the 90s.  So did some searching, they are called "extension plates", got the pair today from Great Lakes Skipper, brand new unopened, for basically $90. Note in the second pic, the most crucial element, clearance wise, would have been the port side hose fitting...and now that's a good inch away from the bar at hardover.  So all is good, took all of 15 minutes to remove the old plates, install the new plates, and install the tie bar.

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Anyway, Scott wanted to see pics of his Seastar cylinder and tie bar.  Knew ALL wasn't right with the tie bar the other day, as I knew that the trunnions that came with his original would have to be used to obtain the 2 axis' of rotation one needs when tilting 1 motor while the remaining motors stays in the water.  Shortened the bar as much as I could, threaded the ends all the way on, the threaded rods all the way in, got rid of the jam nuts (the hollow tube now acts as a big long jam nut)...and got 25 3/4" centers, which is what I was aiming for with 26" centers at the prop shafts.  Anything narrower and cutting will have to take place!!

Bar and cylinder...



Starboard motor tilted all the way, port motor trimmed in all the way...

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So, you guys wanted to see the electronics.  Well, installing that box was no easy chore, basically had to take it all apart and install one piece at a time, as we wanted no visible fasteners.  Took some time and effort, but here's the result...







What I have to deal with on the back side, pretty easy.  Still need to secure the Icom with back mounts, but not today.



This is a view while I'm standing, pretending I'm Scott's height (5'10" versus my 6'2").  Because of the depth of Scott's box, I wanted to kinda keep things within his view, sitting or standing...hence the proximity of the stereo to the VHF.  I think Scott (I know ME!) would have liked the mounting face a bit less deep, but, at this point, it is what it is.



Frank did an EXCELLENT job on the trim ring for the footrest...



Just sitting in there, not secured yet.

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Ordered 18' steering hoses, always have to keep the fingers crossed as you don't want to short, you don't want to long.  Came in, so I thought I would run them (more on that later), see what we have.



With 4' under the helm, may have to hide a foot.  I'm happy, although a little close on the port side elbow...



Pulling on the motors hard to starboard, no more than a 1/32" between the hose fitting and the tie bar bolt.  So, I'll rotate the elbows down a bit (both, a little close on the starboard side as well), and we'll be good.

Many times there is a need to rotate those elbows on Seastar cylinders due to clearance issues. Here's how you do it.  Teleflex installs those elbows pretty damn tight, almost feels as if you may break something if you try and rotate them...you won't.  But here's the trick.  Remove the bleeder fitting above the elbow.  Now put a pair of vise grips on that elbow, REALLY TIGHT, and loosen it.  Yeah, that's right, loosen it.  This will break the "set" that the elbow has taken in the threads. Now go ahead and rotate to the orientation you want.  Don't have to remove the elbow and put new sealant on it, it will be fine and not leak.  Re-install the bleeder fitting, good to go...

For those with cylinders that have the combination bleeder/hose fitting, same deal if you need to re-orient.  And on both types of cylinders, ALWAYS check hardover travel (both ways), as well as full tilt range (do it while keeping an eye on everything!) to ensure you have the proper clearances...

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Today was a day to rig the motors.  Normally, a pair of 75s  would take a couple hours tops but wanted to make sure Miss D not only was rigged right but looked right, from an aesthetic standpoint.  So a lot of studying, trial runs, temporary placements...here's how she turned out.  



Hardover to starboard...



Hardover to port...



And, all important, with the engines tilted all the way up to ensure all the rigging goes where you want it, no possibilities of kinking any lines/cables or any interference issues...