1978 222 rebuild

[Cmitch94]

I want to start off by saying how much i have enjoyed reading and studying all of your post over the last year and looking forward to becoming a part of this great community. i grew up in the clearwater/palm harbor area and have always loved 22.2 aquasports, it is my dream boat. About 3 years ago i really got the bug to purchase one for my self. so i started researching the boat and watching boats on various classified adds to see what boats were going for and what they were really worth. last March i came across a boat that was in, i thought, good shape and price to start a rebuild on. At that point i knew i would have to put work and time into the boat, i just didnt know how to do it and i wanted to know how to do it the right way. i also didnt know an exact cost of materials to do it. So for 8 months i lurked on the cite and saved the money to start a build. during that time i became a father to my first baby girl and free time seemed like it had disappeared. so i started to think that maybe i should sell my boat and by one that had been pretty much done. during that 8 months i still looked at boats for sale because i am addicted to the classified ads. i found 3-4 boats that were in my range and i figured 3-4 more would show up over the next year that i would have a chance to purchase. well after talking with builders and friends that i came to the conclusion that the boat i have, all original and barely touched, would be my best bet because of the simple fact that the i would not know what was really done and materials used to build the boats i might have an interest in. i also got the ok from the old lady and have been able to manage my time better.

On to the boat and build.
PLAN
Demo
test stringers for water
sandblast inside of hull
if necessary, replace stringer foam
if i dont have to replace foam then add additional mat to stringers for support. (is this necessary?)
Add bulk heads and rigging tubes
replace and enclose transom with 2 sheets of 3/4 composite material. (havent decided which one yet)
put gas tank back in and move it forward. (original if still in good shape after inspection)
Replace floor with marine wood.
the casting deck is solid and dry, so i just need to prep it for paint.
i am leaving liner in, but the starboard transom side seams like it has separated from hull. (suggestions?)
i am in limbo about what to do about the top cap. since i can do the cap at a later time i might just fill holes and be good.
New center console and round livewell seat will be added as well as a porta bracket.




console and seats and storage box out, pulling motor



starboard side

starboard bow side

port

deck

previous owner add on to transom

Gas tank removed

floor removed and foam out of Port and starboard side. all foam was dry except the mid starboard side area was soaked. might be why liner is separated in same spot.

cleaned up floor out.

wood is dry near casting deck and bow


when i do the test drill for the stringers. what size drill bit should i use and is there a better way then others to test the stringers?

[love2fish]

sounds like a good plan.
regarding your liner... it should be "seperate" from the exterior of the hull except for the top ring where the bolts go through: cap, hull, liner.
On mine, there was a resin that acted as a glue to further bond the liner to the hull... yours might have worked its way loose through the years.

what does the inside of the boat look like?

[fitz73222]

What's happening with the old in-line 4 Merc? I'm always looking for parts motors...

[Cmitch94]

Sold motor,

I figured something like that. thanks  love2fish

[gman 82 aquasport]

Nice looking hull there!
On your holes to check the stringers for wetness, I drilled mine with a 1 inch hole saw, keep the cut out piece to refill the hole with it I drilled one on the stern end of the stringers about 1 inch up off the hull bottom, I also drilled one at the same level about 2/3's the way toward the bow(about where your console was)..Let it sit bow up for a day or two and see if any water shows up..You can also stick a finger into the hole after drilling to see if it feels wet...This will give you a good idea if they are wet.....Also consider that if you have it down this far, it's really not that more costly to cut the tops off the stringers and take the foam out and remove all doubt..then reglass the stringer tops and repour with new foam..Just my .02

And welcome aboard

[Blue Agave]

Also consider that if you have it down this far, it's really not that more costly to cut the tops off the stringers and take the foam out and remove all doubt..then reglass the stringer tops and repour with new foam..Just my .02

My thoughts exactly!  If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

[Cmitch94]

Finally i got the boat moved and started grinding. i went to the place were i thought i was going to be working on it and the guy said he rented the last spot the day before, so i was scrambling to find a new spot. Luckily,  Last week a friend of mine rented a house that has a huge fenced in lot and he said i could keep boat there to work on. bought a 7 inch angle grinder for $32 at harbor freight and started to grind down stringers and inside of hull. You should have seen the dust fly as the wind was blowing 15-20mph the last 2 days.

Couple questions

1. How much 4 pound foam do i need to get for the two stringers?

2. do i need to cut the casting deck out to be able to get all old foam out of stringers?

3. what do you think of using nida core for transom core?

[Capt. Bob]

Going on the assumption that you've search the rebuild threads, then this may not help but.......

search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&keywords=78+222+rebuild&fid[]=2

That's 92 pages of rebuilds bouncing all around various 222 models. It can't hurt to blast through the ones relating to your "style' Aqua. You may gain a little more insight and even glean a few "ideas" from the different threads.

Even though you're  DIY re-builder this last link  may also create interest and ideas.
viewtopic.php?p=101358#p101358

Good luck.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Used 4 lb foam on mine (19-6) and used 4 gallons(4 gal each part) mixed in 2 quart batches, and had a little left over, so 4 to 5 gal kits should do..
As far as getting the foam out of the front of the stringers under the casting deck, after you cut the tops of the stringers off and get the rest of the foam out you will be able to get up in there a good ways, you may have to drill a hole or two over each stringer to get enough foam in there..

[RickK]

Used 4 lb foam on mine (19-6) and used 4 gallons(4 gal each part) mixed in 2 quart batches, and had a little left over, so 4 to 5 gal kits should do..
As far as getting the foam out of the front of the stringers under the casting deck, after you cut the tops of the stringers off and get the rest of the foam out you will be able to get up in there a good ways, you may have to drill a hole or two over each stringer to get enough foam in there..

Good to have an estimate of what I'll need

[Cmitch94]

I got transom core material today. found a guy that was selling an 1973 modified V with 2 3/4inch  Coosa bluewater already cut and sandwiched for transom. I asked if he would just sell the coosa and he said yes so the  measurements were good and it is solid so i went for it. he gave me the scrap material to use for transom knees. i got a real good deal on it so i am happy.
i will post pics tomorrow.

[Blue Agave]

Excellent!

[Necessary Evil]

Wow, that is a major windfall! I need to take you to Vegas...

You sure are making quick progress! Keep it up and bring it out to the sandbar this summer :)

[Cmitch94]

Got some grinding done today. My new grinder i bought last week burnt out on me, in the middle of working. had to drive up to harbor freight and exchange it, which took an hour out of my day.
i have some questions about grinding the rights spots. i am going to have inside sandblasted this week.
 
do i need to grind down spots like in the last 3 pictures before i get it blasted?
does the glass on the stringers from the gas tank need to be ground down or removed too or will sandblasting take that off?
i plan on using epoxy down there as well.





only spot like this


only like 3 or 4 ruff spots like this

[dburr]

The surface you want to bond to needs to be clean, as void free as possible and smooth.   Not 220 grit smooth, more like 60-80-100 grit for good bonds (high surface area) but nothing poking up to cause the glass to not lie hard against the surface.   The epoxy mfg's tend to differ slightly on what they want for surface roughness, make sure to do what they say or be close anyway..

If you have stray hard glass hairs that keep new material from lying flat (a little tent is formed) that will make for a weak spot in the layer.  It will be likely that the strands will open, be slightly starved for resin and you will get an air pocket.   If this happens on the bottom of the hull under the tank it is not the end of the world structurally.

Best practice? NO..  

You’re putting in the effort now, go big or stay home..  What that pocket/tent will do is collect gunk over the years and it is an opening for water get in and cause trouble in the laminate over time and you don’t want that.   What you’re going to see is that just about every time you think you’re done, you clean up and notice something else.   No worries, just grind a little more..  

The blasting will do a good job cleaning and uniformly roughing up the surface and, depending on how fastidious the guy on the nozzle is, will get rid of the stray hairs.  Unlike grinding which will cut the fibers, blasting will alternately cut or tear the glass depending on how strong the old bond is, and the stuff that tears you’ll end up touching that up anyway.

So far GREAT progress!    Keep the faith and keep on!