Flatback Fireboat Rebuild

[CLM65]

Either way, you're going to get a good job. The main thing is stabilizing what you have in terms of future issues. And a lot of that has to do with usage. A boat sitting in the water 24/7 is certainly different than one stored on a lift/rack/ or sitting on a trailer.

We were fairly  impressed with the sand-blaster guy here. Take an estimate on the hours you'll spend with the dremel/filling/ polyester/ glass, etc. in comparison to blast-on-wheels.  He showed up  for 400 bucks for the afternoon. Removed all of the bottom paint, but had we let him keep going, he could have switched media from soda to more aggressive and blasted off the gel too.

In the scheme of things, pretty reasonable, and may save you three weeks....plus grief and money.

Chris was saying forget the extra glass. Just leave a bit of gel showing here and there. Then let the Duratec do the work on the build-up.

The little bit I did with the Dremel tool went pretty quick.  I think I can dremel the whole bottom in a weekend.  The one thing that may slow me down is that the tool gets pretty hot.  I may need to get another one and alternate.  I don't think filling the grooves will take too long, so I'm confident I can do it quicker and cheaper than stripping it all down followed by lots of fairing.

As far as not building it back up with extra glass...that will be a pretty deep divot to fill in with the primer.  Just how thick can the duretec be?

[CLM65]

Yeah, a pancake with an external tank might just burn out the pancake.
I really thought about and almost bought a 60 but it just won't fit in my shop unless I modify the layout a bit - major surgery, or I lose a little flexibility.  The diameter of the tank is the same just taller - the problem is the motor is twice the width .  I may figure out the right placement to make it happen.
You're right, they're reasonable.  Haven't seen a $500 unit yet - HF seems to be around $700.

Real estate will be an issue for me as well, but with a little rearranging I think I can make if work.

I was in Tractor Supply the other day and they had a Porter Cable for about $489.  Lowes has their brand for about $500, and Home Depot's brand is a little less than that.  Rural King also has one for less than all of these.  So they are out there.  I'll probably end up getting one eventually.  There are times (like now) that I really wish I had one.

[gran398]

If you go the divot route, you'll need to glass and fair.

Then Duratec.

Do you have a sandblast on wheels service there?

[CLM65]

Crystal River is a pretty small town...I don't think we have any mobile blasting outfits.

[gran398]

All good.

You have a few things to chew on.

Little girl will be a looker regardless...can't wait!

[RickK]

Real estate will be an issue for me as well, but with a little rearranging I think I can make if work.

I was in Tractor Supply the other day and they had a Porter Cable for about $489.  Lowes has their brand for about $500, and Home Depot's brand is a little less than that.  Rural King also has one for less than all of these.  So they are out there.  I'll probably end up getting one eventually.  There are times (like now) that I really wish I had one.

I'll have to check them out - didn't figure someone would beat the price at HF. Thanks for the leads Craig.

[dburr]

Compressors...

Last checked, and that was before Christmas, HF had a 2cyl replacement compressor that is a beast for $175.  I don't recall the flow but it was huge, and could be run off a 1.5hp motor. I have a portable Craftstman on a 30 gal tank.  The HF will replace that POS "5hp"  (total BS advertising number) high speed compressor this spring. It has had a good life for 25 years but is on its way out.

I also have the same 30 gal tank up in the top of the barn that came from the transfer station. Some guy threw it out cause the compressor cooked, I lucked out and got to it before anyone else and before it went in the metal bin, right place right time... That is now plumbed into the HP side of the portable with QD fittings so I can still move the ground floor compressor around if I have too.

Real estate for big tanks and portability are problems for all of us. No reason though why a deal like the HF beast on a pancake would not do the trick for high volume air tools. As has been stated, once the compressor kicks on, it's gonna run till you shut the tool off. At that point, tank size doesn't really matter.  And the low speed multi cylinder machines are way more pleasant to listen to.  Those high speed ones sound like really mad BIG bees...


Just saw this too:

http://t.harborfreight.com/21-gal-2-12-HP-125-PSI-Cast-Iron-Vertical-Air-Compressor-67847.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzQzMTU5NTYiLCJza3UiOiI2Nzg0NyIsImlzIjoiMTU5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p%0D%0AZCI6Ijc3NzQifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=0215c&utm_source=1031&cid=mEmail_s1031_c0215c&utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

[RickK]

My workshop is a one car garage and I put a 16ft bench down one side at 24" deep.  That's as deep as I can go and I factored in the 20gal (I said 25 but I looked today and it is a 20gal 5hp) and the beer fridge in the design at each end. I have table and radial arm saws and another bench on the other wall.  BTW, I can barely walk through the shop since I have started this project - boat stuff everywhere and engine stand with engine in the way - man o man will I be glad to get my shop back.

The problem with the 60+ gal jobs is not the tank so much as the 32" wide compressor and motor portion (32" was one I looked at) for my shop.  At 5.5' tall that is a head knocker as it would stick out 8" past the bench if I turned it sideways.  So that ain't gonna happen and if I put it in parallel with the bench I think it still won't fit.  It's one of those "you must go measure the beast before you buy".

I wonder if they make a vertical compressor/motor setup?

[CLM65]

I can barely walk through the shop since I have started this project - boat stuff everywhere and engine stand with engine in the way - man o man will I be glad to get my shop back

You mean I'm not the only one?

[dburr]

I can barely walk through the shop since I have started this project - boat stuff everywhere and engine stand with engine in the way - man o man will I be glad to get my shop back

You mean I'm not the only one?

Not by a long shot.....

[CLM65]

So as I methodically grind out the crazing on my hull bottom, I am starting to think about what I am going to use to fill in the grooves I am making.  A fairing compound with embedded fibers has been suggested.  I'm thinking of making my own compound/putty by thickening vinyl ester resin with 1/32" or 1/8" milled fibers (or a combination of the two sizes).  My thinking is that the vinyl ester-based compound should have better adhesion than a poly-based product.  Anyone have any reasons why this is a bad idea, or suggestions of a product better suited for this application?

[wingtime]

The big question is how are you planning on finishing the hull.  If you are planning on gel coat than the vinyl ester resin is a good idea.  If you are planning on paint then I'd go with epoxy.

The milled fibers make a very strong filler.  I have used that in the past along with some scraps of mat that I chopped up into 1/4" or smaller chunks.  This makes a even stronger filler especially if you use epoxy.  But the catch is it is hard to sand it and get the hull fair...  You could use a mixture of milled fibers and micro balloons to make it easier to sand.

[CLM65]

I plan to gel coat, so I am avoiding epoxy.  I like the idea of micro balloons (or glass bubbles).  Thanks!

[RickK]

Ask Chris (dirtwheelsFL) for his formula for his fairng mix - he uses resin, balloons and cabosil.  He uses epoxy but just substitute your resin.

[CLM65]

Sounds alot like what Robb Young at Young Boats uses, except with vinyl ester instead of epoxy, and glass bubbles instead of micro balloons.  I get the impression that the micro ballons are only compatible with epoxy for whatever reason.  But these recipes are more appropriate for fairing surfaces, not filling gaps.  For filling gaps, and not have them re-open down the road, more structure is needed, and that is where the fibers come in.  At least that is my understanding of it.