Flatback Fireboat Rebuild

[Capt. Bob]

Here's a member you may want to talk to.

viewtopic.php?p=103620#p103620

Opinions
viewtopic.php?p=28230#p28230

[gran398]

Carl, give Eugene a call and ask him about the resin compatability.

[RickK]

I was going to go all poly and then visited some other sites and talked to our Master Rebuilders and after that I decided to go with epoxy for under the floor and poly above.  I have the natural demarcation line there where I can break the two.
The bonding strength of poly is 100 and epoxy is 2000.  So a no-brainer there.  Epoxy will stick to poly and I read somewhere that to transistion from epoxy to poly you need vinylester. Other than that I know nothing about vinylester.
My rebuild is a little different than yours - I started with a clean slate.

[CLM65]

Thanks guys.  Most people seem to use either poly or epoxy.  From what I've read, vinylester has favorable properties compared to poly, while still allowing the use of gelcoat.  Epoxy is arguably the strongest, but it is also much more expensive.  It is comforting to see orp using vinylester on his rebuild.  From everything I have read, vinylester can be used in repairs to polyester resin boats.  I just need to confirm that it is compatible with "fresh" polyester resin.

[CLM65]

I spoke to Eugene earlier today based on Scott's great advice.  It's the first time I spoke with him - what a great guy.  Very helpful and knowledgable.  So here is the skinny in case anyone is curious.  Vinylester can be used on poly.  The downside is that vinylester is less forgiving than poly.  It requires a precise amount of catalyst to cure - too little and it may take a very very long time - and with the right amount it has a pretty short self life, especially in the Florida heat.  Too much and I guess you have even less time to work with it.  The key is in the preparation.  If the surfaces are properly prepared, good poly is perfectly adequate.  Bottom line, Eugene would recommend using all poly, especially when working in a non-environmentally controlled work space.

Eugene - if you see this and I mis-spoke, please let me know.

Thanks,

Craig

[Aswaff400]

ive been using all vinylester in my build, and eugene is right, too much catalyst and gels up within minutes,  too little and may take a week to cure, if it does cure at all. i usually mix no less than 2%, which eugene recommended to me that i do and ive been sticking to that advise, gives me plenty of work time. i also mix in small batches which seems to help and have had very little waste left in the buckets.

[CLM65]

Good to know Aaron.  2% is the number that Eugene mentioned to me also.  Sounds like the vinylester is not giving you any problems.  I'm still not sure which way I am going to go.  Eugene gave me good advice.  If I prep the surfaces properly, poly seems like the way to go.  However, I've never done this type of glass work before.  I feel more confident that I can hit the 2% catalyst mark than the perfect prep mark.  In that sense, vinylester may be able to compensate for minor shortcomings in my prep work.  And the areas where I am considering using vinylester are not extremely large - mostly patching holes where I removed fittings, with the biggest area being the outer transom skin.  Therefore hopefully pot life wouldn't be an issue.

Decisions, decisions....

[CLM65]

I have a question for you gas tank folks.  I'm looking at poly tanks for my install, something in the 55+ gallon range.  I've found decent pricing on many of them, but in most cases the shipping is almost as much $ as the tank.  I did find one 55 gallon tank that might work, for a good price, that also has free shipping.  It has the fill & vent on one end, and the pickup and sensor on the other end.  Due to the height of the doghouse (fill), I would need to put that end under the casting deck.  The fill connection would be aimed at the starboard side, but I want to put the deck fill on the port side.  Does anyone know if there would be a problem with putting a 180 degree bend in the fill line?

Here is a link to the tank.

Edit:  Linky no worky...here is a picture of it (thanks Scott)

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... -72dpi.jpg

[gran398]

Is this the one?

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... -72dpi.jpg

[Capt. Bob]

 Does anyone know if there would be a problem with putting a 180 degree bend in the fill line?

Just in your wallet for the extra line. Gas flows around bends (not kinks) pretty well.

[CLM65]

Is this the one?

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... -72dpi.jpg

That looks like the one .

Edit:  Sorry, just checked the link in my post...just goes to the Moeller web site and not the specific tank.  It is model FT5599-1.

[CLM65]

 Does anyone know if there would be a problem with putting a 180 degree bend in the fill line?

Just in your wallet for the extra line. Gas flows around bends (not kinks) pretty well.

Thanks Bob, that's what I was thinking and hoping others would agree.  I should have no problem fitting a fairly large radius bend since it is under the casting deck.  I just don't want to end up with enough resistance that the gas backs up and trips the handle every time I fill up.

[Georgie]

Craig,

It probably goes without saying, but try to make sure your fill hose maintains a continuous slope up to the fill fitting on the gunwale.  If you do so, and maintain proper venting, you should NEVER have an issue.

[CLM65]

Gotcha Ryan.  The beauty of putting the fill connection under the casting deck is that there should be plenty of room to maintain slope.

[CLM65]

Yesterday was a good day...got almost all the transom work done.  Just need to finish up around the edges.  Actually was easier than expected  !