Flatback Fireboat Rebuild

[CLM65]

I like the idea of the bondo in the corners so you wouldn't need to sand much at all. The hole in the center would help getting it out of the mold but since you will have to take the sides off the mold it should come out easily. I wish the HD had the melamine around here.

From what I see you should have really nice doors with little cleanup.  

Thanks fish.  The pvc fitting makes the bondo super smooth - no sanding required there at all.  Most of this project has been two steps forward and one step back.  I originally made this mold with pine sides and I used bondo for the fillets.  That bondo required some sanding, and of course the pine took the brunt of it.  So I tore it apart and redid it with the melamine sides and used clay.  Much better product so far.

I did add a hole in the center after Lewis's recommendation above.  It was easier than I expected - I drilled a hole from the side to about the center of the panel, then used a magnet to find the drill bit so that I knew where to drill the holes on each side of the panel.  Filled the surface of the holes with clay, so hopefully it won't leave much of an indication in the gelcoat.  I'm not sure if it is going to work, as I have no bevel in the form, so I may end up taking the sides off anyway.  But it is worth a shot!

[CLM65]

You just going with 2 large doors in the cabinet not 3?
Capt Matt

Good question Capt. Matt.  I originally had planned to add 3.  But then I decided to add a small crustation well in the center of the cabinet, so that would block most of the center opening.  I'm certainly open to advice - what do you think?

[kaptainkoz]

Love it! Love the PVC/bondo corner trick. Looks like they will be some awesome doors. The rounding tools will come in handy as I have to make doors myself. Great ideas. Thanks for sharing. Looks like they will come out awesome. What about a latch? do these have anything to hold the doors shut? I see the recess for the hinge which is good thinking and will give you a professional look. Cant wait to see them popped out

[kaptainkoz]

Since this seems to be the season for making molds,

It's like the flu going around!

         
Sorry Carl dont know what your talking about LOL

Its awesome to see everyone giving it a go! We all have the ability to do whatever we want to out boats. All we needed was a little direction and motivation. Looks great Craig!!!

[CLM65]

Love it! Love the PVC/bondo corner trick. Looks like they will be some awesome doors. The rounding tools will come in handy as I have to make doors myself. Great ideas. Thanks for sharing. Looks like they will come out awesome. What about a latch? do these have anything to hold the doors shut? I see the recess for the hinge which is good thinking and will give you a professional look. Cant wait to see them popped out

Thanks Koz!  I have some stainless Southco slam latches for the doors.  If you want to make some of those filleting tools, look on ebay for the balls.  I think I'm averaging about a buck a tool when considering the balls and high strength screws (from Fastenal).  They make working with clay super easy.

[gran398]

Guys, enjoying from the sidelines. The new technology is awesome

[kaptainkoz]

I used a variety of popsicle sticks which is a low tech version of the same idea.... rounded edges

[CLM65]

That will certainly work too, koz.  One thing about the balls though is that they make the same profile no matter what angle you hold the handle.  Just a little extra insurance I guess.

[kaptainkoz]

Yes, definitely true. You have to hold the sticks perpendicular where you can get real sloppy with the ball end and it will always stay true. Great point. Keep up the great work and keep it coming. It's a long winter up north so I'm relying on all the warmer states projects to keep me from going nuts lol

[Capt Matt]

Doors just make for easy access to where the rigging tubes come up inside the cabinet, I did 3 doors as my stringer knees are as wide as the cabinet so it's 3 separate compartments. I use this space for hydro pumps (porta lift' power pole ), wash down pump, fire ext and storage for ropes, rain gear etc.
I like the small live well idea
Capt Matt

[Callyb]

Craig, what are your thoughts for accessing the bolts for the bracket? I also plan on adding an 8 or 10 gallon baitwell in the transom, but I am uncertain about the very limited access to the bolts.

[CLM65]

That's the size transom livewell I'm looking at also, along with the livewell seat like you are building.  Unlike typical motor mounting, the bolts for a porta bracket are inserted from the outside (according to pics on the porta bracket website), so I figure I only need to leave enough room between the inside transom surface and the livewell for the nuts and maybe a couple of inches of exposed bolts.  As far as accessing them, my knees aren't terribly deep, so I think I can reach the nuts with a long handled tool through the doors I'm making.  But I am going to draw it out more accurately before I make the enclosure.  I  may have to make a drop-in livewell and install it after the bracket is on if it looks too tight.  Thanks for the great question Carl- you really have me thinking about this now   !

[CLM65]

Doors just make for easy access to where the rigging tubes come up inside the cabinet, I did 3 doors as my stringer knees are as wide as the cabinet so it's 3 separate compartments. I use this space for hydro pumps (porta lift' power pole ), wash down pump, fire ext and storage for ropes, rain gear etc.
I like the small live well idea
Capt Matt

Good points Capt. Matt.  My cad drawings for the enclosure are at work, and I can't remember how much access there is to the bilge with the livewell in the way.  I need to play with the drawings with your suggestion and Carl's question in mind.  I do think it would look better with the third door - not as much bare real estate in the center there.

[seabob4]

Craig, if your 2 outboard compartments allow you to reach to the center of the transom, you'll have room to get at the nuts for the Porta-bracket mntng bots.  Obviously, by yourself, you can't hold the wrench while at the same time tightening the bolt up.  So what I do is put a pair of vise grips on the nut, then tighten up from the outside.  The vise grips will wedge itself against the knee or whatever and you can tighten the bolts no problem.  

Don't know what kind of hardware Porta supplies, but you definitely want lock nuts.  I also highly recommend 1/4" aluminum backing plates spanning the top bolts and the bottom bolts.  Seeing as the bracket creates a lever effect by moving the origin of the force aft, there is quite a bit more stress on the transom than if the motor alone was bolted to it.

Actually, I think a Porta-brackets uses 6 bolts to secure it...

[CLM65]

Bob,

Good tips and advice on the backing plate.  I will definitely use the backing plates.  I believe the porta bracket actually uses 12 mounting bolts - six for the top hinge and six for the bottom.  Two 1/4 x 8 x 20 aluminum plates should work nicely as the backing plates.  I think I have one already .