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Author Topic: bow hook repair  (Read 1777 times)

March 03, 2014, 09:41:22 PM
Reply #15

seabob4

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Re: bow hook repair
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2014, 09:41:22 PM »
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"
I went with 6" only because I wasn't 100% confident that I was cutting directly behind it...figured a little room to wiggle my arm up or down as necessary would be prudent.  That said, if I had it to do over, I'd have gone 4" and cheated toward the top of the compartment, for what little difference that would have made.

I'd of done the same, Ryan :salut:


Corner of 520 and A1A...

March 04, 2014, 08:36:26 AM
Reply #16

Aswaff400

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Re: bow hook repair
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2014, 08:36:26 AM »
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"
Note the relatively good condition (relative to the rusty crap that was inside) of the portion of the u-bolt that was outside of the boat...

And the sawzall is not my go-to cutting tool, but it seemed best for this application.  It's actually #4 behind Oxy/Acetylene, plasma cutter, and grinder  8)  


any time a sawzall is used is good work! :thumleft:  i used a sawzall, grinder, and leaf blower as my tools of choice when i started my rebuild

Aaron
1996 200 Osprey SOLD
1968 22-2 Flatback SOLD
1993 210 Explorer SOLD
1991 Fountain 31TE SOLD
1989 Fountain 12-meter SOLD
1992 Talon F-20 SOLD
2021 Fountain 38TE QUAD 400's

March 04, 2014, 08:44:41 AM
Reply #17

SaltH2OHokie

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Re: bow hook repair
« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2014, 08:44:41 AM »
I work in commercial construction, so I'm around a lot of tools, but I'll be honest, we don't do a lot of heavy lifting with the "leaf blower"  :P

We call cordless angle grinders "master keys" because any sub who puts a hasp and lock on a door while we're under construction without giving us (GC) a key, if I can't find the sub with a key before I find my "master key", that's what I use to get their lock off the door  :lol:
Ryan

1975 Aquasport 19-6, 1985 Merc 115 Inline.
1970 Aquasport 22-2, 1987(ish) Yamaha 115 V4.
Former owner of 1988 Aquasport 290 TM.

Currently on nothing but cell phone/air card.  Which severely limits internet time.

March 04, 2014, 06:22:47 PM
Reply #18

TheKid

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Re: bow hook repair
« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2014, 06:22:47 PM »
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"

Then I cut a piece of anodized aluminum as a big backing washer and installed the new one.  Pie-plate installed and done  :thumright:


DID you use any filler between the aluminum plate and bow of boat? That would reduce or eliminate any high stress points.

I used thickened cabisol, it is never coming out or moving one bit.

March 04, 2014, 07:07:28 PM
Reply #19

SaltH2OHokie

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Re: bow hook repair
« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2014, 07:07:28 PM »
Quote from: "TheKid"
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"

Then I cut a piece of anodized aluminum as a big backing washer and installed the new one.  Pie-plate installed and done  :thumright:


DID you use any filler between the aluminum plate and bow of boat? That would reduce or eliminate any high stress points.

I used thickened cabisol, it is never coming out or moving one bit.

Negative, but the factory blocking/coring/thickened pad was still pretty good as far as I could feel, so in the short term I feel okay about it.
Ryan

1975 Aquasport 19-6, 1985 Merc 115 Inline.
1970 Aquasport 22-2, 1987(ish) Yamaha 115 V4.
Former owner of 1988 Aquasport 290 TM.

Currently on nothing but cell phone/air card.  Which severely limits internet time.

 


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