RickK's 170 rebuild

[seabob4]

Gman, Rick,

That's why I'm recommending using 45s coming off the ends of the rigging tubes.  I use a universal cable for my snake, so I really don't care if  it gets bent or not.  Mark's 250 CCP, it has 90s on the tubes in the console, my snake did NOT like to negotiate that turn upward...

[gman 82 aquasport]

How true, I had a hard time getting the Johnson cables thru the 90 degree turns but they went thru the 45 degree ones. The smartest thing I did was try them before glueing them :o , after seeing that they were going to give me a hard time, I just ran them thru one peice at a time then went back and glued the pieces, I had a total of 2 45's and 2 90's per line that I ran.. the 90's were where it comes out of the floor and where it comes out of the liner...On the wiring chase I used an elbow with a 2in cut out on it to take the wiring for lights and such out of the tube behind the liner :)

[dirtwheelsfl]

Thanks Dirt.
They originally just covered the strakes with the roven that was part of the stringer system.  So you'd fill the strakes in totally? Makes sense to have a flat surface. How much build up would you try to do at one time?
The putty in the keel section is to build it up to make it easy to lay glass cloth in?  How thick at one time?

Yea id fill em in. Another option would be to bed some high density core in and shape it then lay some tape over it. Personally i dont think they need to be solid glass.

Yep putty just to make that transition in the keel easier to laminate. Ive got probably half a dozen different sized radius tools to spread fillets out with. Make it as thick as you need to lay glass easily, you should be able to do it in one shot just make sure to get it outta the bucket and spread out on a board! Doing it wet on wet will make it way easier too. I like to let fillets get a little firm then glass em. Keeps the roller from pushing it out..

Can you get a closer shot of that section?

oh and slow down, youre making us look bad! haha

[Aswaff400]

oh and slow down, youre making us look bad! haha

you can say that again!

[RickK]

Yea id fill em in. Another option would be to bed some high density core in and shape it then lay some tape over it. Personally i dont think they need to be solid glass.

Yep putty just to make that transition in the keel easier to laminate. Ive got probably half a dozen different sized radius tools to spread fillets out with. Make it as thick as you need to lay glass easily, you should be able to do it in one shot just make sure to get it outta the bucket and spread out on a board! Doing it wet on wet will make it way easier too. I like to let fillets get a little firm then glass em. Keeps the roller from pushing it out..

Can you get a closer shot of that section?

oh and slow down, youre making us look bad! haha

I have been working this for a couple weeks now (engine included) and only have a couple weeks left before I head back to work - gotta get her done

I'll get a closer pic of the area tomorrow.

[RickK]

oh and slow down, youre making us look bad! haha

you can say that again!

I think you're still ahead of me - you have the transom core done - I haven't figured out what I'm going to use yet.  
Going to order materials tomorrow.

[Aswaff400]

oh and slow down, youre making us look bad! haha

you can say that again!

I think you're still ahead of me - you have the transom core done - I haven't figured out what I'm going to use yet.  
Going to order materials tomorrow.

remember, im working on 2 boats too      

[RickK]

That'd be tough.
We popped out the "pretty much useless" rod inserts that must have been an option on this boat. I realized that they are an option because we see other 170s without them but still have the openings they fill, trimmed in teak. Always wondered about that and once I popped them out it became clear.  One thing they are good for is sealing up the boat so no water can get into the bilge. I'll re-install them for that purpose - otherwise they are useless, too short to put rods in and then the rods are in your way as you walk by the console. Notice I cut a hole in one to allow a 7ft rod - need to get those tubes that JJ was showing us.




This pic is for the guys that have a wire go bad and they can't seem to pull the wire out.  Seems that some of these fiberglass "chases" were wet too much and it grabbed the wire 


I soaked the cleat on the bow with PB the day before and when we put a 15/16" socket on it, it broke free easily    I like a center cleat.  Hope I can find another like it.  I also have to worry about room for a trolling motor up front, so I hope a centered cleat won't be in the way.


Spent some time grinding the bottom edge of the liner




Also cut out the wood for the eye in front and ground down the entire area, to include the strake areas. (I'm so done with grinding   - even though I know I'm not)

[gran398]

Consider a pop-up cleat up front

Like Dirt's recommendation on the fillets... that is exactly where you would want extra weight/strength.

[Circle Hooked]

Looking good Rick, I'm going to stop by one day this week and take a peek.

[gman 82 aquasport]

I have a cleat just like that on the bow of my 19-6, but instead of a bolt holding it on, mine has a 18 in long peice of 5/8 stainless threaded rod(11 count thread) that connects to the eyelet on the lower bow tieing the lower eyelet to the upper cleat  I always assumed that the factory did it that way I just replaced it all with new hardware when I re-did it. You definatly don't move the cleat at all

[wingtime]

Gman that is like that so the boat can be lifted by the eye.  the threaded rod transfers the lifting load to the hull otherwise the cap would be torn off!

[gman 82 aquasport]

Figured as much
Rick you sure are making good time here...

[RickK]

I purchased most of the goodies for the rebuild on Tuesday.  Had to build a rack for the materials - 3/4oz on top, 1.5 oz in the middle and then 1708 on the bottom.  Bought a whole roll of 1708 - got a better deal that way. Covered it with plastic to protect it since I stored it outside.


Glued some cardboard together and used the outside of the transom to trace the shape of the transom.  Cut and fit it inside.






Hung a board across the top back of the transom, cut the materials for the lam of the transom and clamped them onto the board. Then I cut each layer to fit. (Thanks for the tips, Dirt)




Then I flipped them out of the boat.


Next it was time to get to work. My buddy Eddie mixed and I layed.  We mixed up some putty and laid a nice fillet all around the transom and let that start to kick.






Then we started laying the initial lam of the transom - 1.5oz + 2 layers of 1708.




Before I started the lam I noticed that I had a 1-1.5" inward bow on the transom when the coring was removed.
We built some clamps like seen on Eugene's rebuild thread (thanks for the tips and examples to follow Eugene) and clamped the initial lam up for the night.




Then we lam'd the transom core - 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood with 3/4oz, 1708 and 3/4oz between them.

[seabob4]

Looking good Rick!

Hey nobody's asked...what do the neighbors think about your little project?