RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

I forgot to update this, thanks for reminding me.  As I said earlier we sprayed a little air in the gauge and it moved.  Last weekend we replaced one seal under the impeller housing (what a PITA - hope they made a change to this in later years) and hooked up the pressure gauge.  Fired up the motor and the pressure at idle seems to be around 6-7 lbs.  I revved the engine a little and saw up to 10lbs    The engine is done.  I'll take some pics of the hydraulic lines on the vertical Tee's.

Going to try to get a little done this weekend but I need to head out on business Sunday, so it'll be iffy on getting anything done.

[RickK]

Here are some pics of the "Vertical Tee"s for the hydraulic steering that I installed after a member said that he snapped off the horizontal tee on his when tilting all the way forward- thanks for the tip.   Being vertical allows full tilt and doesn't bind when you turn the motor. Port extent of the motor (turning starboard).


Starboard extent of the motor (turning port).


I decided to make some 90 degree angle braces from 4-5 layers of 1708.  This is how I will attach my console.  There really wasn't enough room to glass it down on the inside or outside - you can see the line on the lid - this is the "inside" of the console.
I spent about 6 hours today getting them cut to the right width and height and then drilled holes for 1/4-20 Truss head bolts with fender washers and nylocs under the lid.  Then I bedded them in thickened epoxy and snugged them down with with the bolts - not too much ooze out.
This is the front brace - goes full length across console


The back - about 2/3 width


I put shorter ones on the sides figuring all the stress will be from hanging onto the console while moving and the stress will be either front or back.


Next is to find a good captured nut to bed into the fiberglass so I don't have to wrestle with wrench and screwdriver when I need to set or remove the console.

[larsli68]

Great work as always Rick!

You are getting closer!!! 

//Lars

[RickK]

I lam'd up some cloth scraps about a 1/4" thick and then glued them to the brackets I mounted earlier.  My goal was to get the fiberglass thick enough that T-nuts would not extend past the glass. My buddy helped me set the console on the tank lid and it slid right over the brackets nice and snug.  Then I drilled through the toe kick from the outside and kissed the fiberglass brackets so I knew where to drill the larger hole for the t-nuts. 


Then we removed the console and I went to work drilling the main holes and the 4 holes around each main hole for the teeth of the t-nut.  I made a little jig so that I could mark the 4 holes with a pencil




and then drilled 4 holes per main hole


Then I used a pair of channel locks to squeeze the t-nuts into the holes - nice and snug


Then we set the console back on the lid and tested each 1/4-20 truss head bolt to make sure it mated with the t-nuts. Went together well.


Then we mounted a couple more gauges - Temp and water pressure - hadn't noticed that I ordered a silver ringed temp gauge - DOH!!  Then we mounted a bilge pump switch and the jackplate control.

Next is to get the non-skid on the inside done, then mount the console and the seat. Getting close now.

[RickK]

I notice that the stainless piano hinge on the console and the screws that I installed in the front speakers are rusting now. Do I need to wax the hinge before I install it?  Not sure what is going on, haven't even launched yet and already replacing stuff 

[CLM65]

Wow, looking great Rick!  You are definitely getting close!

Don't know what to say about the rusting stuff.  Damn cheap Chinese crap.

[RickK]

Thanks Craig - the rust is definitely a let down.  I have more piano hinge but don't want to use it until I figure out what to do to prevent it from rusting.

[Blue Agave]

Hopefully it's just the screws and not the piano hinge.

[RickK]

Piano hinge, maybe screws too :-(

[Blue Agave]

In that case I recommend you dispose of the remaining piano hinge and get another. If you like I can find out whom supplies piano hinges for the boat builder I do work for as I have never seen his rust. I have one that attaches my livewell lid and it is drenched in saltwater every trip, no rust.

EDIT: The hinges he uses are supplied through TACO

[RickK]

Thanks Blue - I'll search for something by Taco. 

Do you think Aluminum hinge would be ok? http://tacomarine.com/category/cat_piano_hinge/Continuous-Hinges

Looks like Worst has TACO sewn up around here.

[Blue Agave]

Aluminum could be a viable option, you'll just have to take measures to prevent galvanic corrosion if using SS screws. Maybe an aluminum pop rivet?

[mshugg]

Rick, your build is fascinating to watch.  You come up with ingenious solutions to challenges that a lot of folks don't consider.  Well done. 

[RickK]

Thanks.

[larsli68]

Stay safe in the scary hurricane Hermine Rick!