RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

Hi Craig, I'm using poly.  It's not structural, it's just a filler, per se.

[CLM65]

Hi Craig, I'm using poly.  It's not structural, it's just a filler, per se.

Agreed.

[RickK]

I just visited a place that does work for our company and on the other side of their shop is a place that does boat refinishing, not rebuilding, just repainting and I think I just was convinced to go back to gelcoat on the bottom.  He said that any type of paint will not hold up against the friction of water (and your trailer).
So I'll have to find another place to spray the epoxy base coat that I bought

[CLM65]

That kinda sucks, but aren't you glad you got that info before you sprayed the epoxy?

[RickK]

That kinda sucks, but aren't you glad you got that info before you sprayed the epoxy?

Yes, I am.
I can scruff up the sides and spray the primer over the Imron even though it doesn't need it, just to use it, then topcoat it with some kind of paint.

[RickK]

Maybe there is still a solution here:  http://www.duratec1.com/dp04.html  check out the 2nd underlined bullet.  Maybe I can still seal the bottom with the epoxy base coat after all and still gelcoat?

[RickK]

As a follow-up on the duratec, they said they hadn't tested with the epoxy I bought and that "I will have to test it myself"    so I will.  I talked to one company that said that after I spray the epoxy base coat and it hardens, to wipe it with acetone and if it softens then their primer is not compatible.  He said that would probably be the same with most.  I wouldn't expect acetone to faze epoxy but a chemist I'm not. I'll find out.
As for the leveling the hook I think I ended up lamming about 10 layers of 3/4oz to bring it up to level and then I mixed some home blend filler to start fairing it in. I mixed poly with hardener and then added equal parts of cabosil and micro balloons and mixed it with a little drill mixer until I had peanut butter consistency (the mixer makes it nice and smooth) and then I spread it on and screeded (word?) the excess off with a length of pool cage aluminum and used the edge of it.


Then after a couple light coats of that I started using the APF7 that I bought and screeded that to get it close and ready to long board.  The APF7 sands easier than my mix and doesn't leave pin holes (like my mix did).






I ordered some 3M 4 1/2"W 30"L. long boarding material for this next step. I'll have to borrow Lars' avatar after this next step.   


I have an old 12' sailboat that needs to be re-gelcoated and the woodwork replaced/rebuilt.  I plan on recruiting my grandsons on that one and the long board stuff will break them in just right.  And when they are done, the boat is theirs.  A little learning, sweat equity, trade-off for ownership exercise. 

[dirtwheelsfl]

Just remember its the bottom, don't make it too pretty!      Looks good

[RickK]

Thanks Chris 
I am getting close to spraying the Epoxy base coat and then can fair the entire bottom.  I know we've all heard of dyes and rattle paint cans for guide coating but I have been reading on just using graphite powder - you wipe a very small amount on with a rag and start sanding and it immediately shows you what you need to know.  Takes like a tablespoon to do this size boat.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Joel - any expertise on this?

[CLM65]

Just remember its the bottom, don't make it too pretty!      Looks good

X2!  I keep looking at my bottom and saying the same thing to myself.  I want to do enough so it doesn't look bad, but nobody's going to see it, so I'm not going to kill myself getting it faired perfectly.

Keep up the good work, Rick!

[RickK]

The smoother, the faster it'll go I hope 
So I won't spend a ton of time on the whole bottom since 90% is ok 'cept the hook I just tackled BUT I will sand it all down with a stiff and flexible long board and then when I apply the topcoat (gelcoat or other) it'll be as smooth as it can possibly be.

[Shine]

Rick

Thanks Chris 
I am getting close to spraying the Epoxy base coat and then can fair the entire bottom.  I know we've all heard of dyes and rattle paint cans for guide coating but I have been reading on just using graphite powder - you wipe a very small amount on with a rag and start sanding and it immediately shows you what you need to know.  Takes like a tablespoon to do this size boat.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Joel - any expertise on this?

yes, all the methods work.  I still like a dusting of quick dry spray primer.  Graphite is messy, but sure it works just fine.

BTW, no need to seal the bottom with a straight epoxy barrier coat when you are going to use an epoxy primer (especially on a boat that will not live permanently in the water)

[RickK]

Rick
yes, all the methods work.  I still like a dusting of quick dry spray primer.  Graphite is messy, but sure it works just fine.

BTW, no need to seal the bottom with a straight epoxy barrier coat when you are going to use an epoxy primer (especially on a boat that will not live permanently in the water)

Thanks Joel.
I bought epoxy base coat/primer in two colors to use as a sealer and also a guide coat so I may not have to use anything other than that.
What I have to do after the fairing with the KD3000 is spray something (Duratec?) to allow me to gelcoat over the top of everything. The duratech seems to be poly based and will stick to epoxy. A little science experiment I guess.

[Shine]

Im not sure I understand, why go back to gelcoat?  If you have epoxy primer, then your ready next for topcoat.

[RickK]

That's ok, I'm not sure I understand anymore either.
I want to be able to leave my boat in the water for 4 days or so but I don't want to use regular bottom paint. So I bought epoxy hi-build primer so I can seal the bottom but I want a slick surface as a top coat.  Most every paint tells you it is for above the water line or it is anti-fouling and you don't get many color options.  So first I figured I'd use a good single part urethane as the top coat but was told it probably wouldn't last on the bottom (friction of the water and trailer abrasion).  I was told it would be best to go back to gelcoat since it is so durable.